Hibberd Planet Type 39
16mm scale introduction and instructions

3D printed parts

• Black: chassis, 2 side frames, chassis weight cover, radiator grill, 4 brakes, brake lever, brake lever base, step, exhaust pipe, seat, gearbox base, gearbox middle, gearbox top, gear change handle, gear shaft plate, reverser bracket, forward/reverse lever and connecting rods, throttle bracket, sander bracket, gauge, filler cap (note there are 2 of each of the small black parts so you have spares)
• Red: 2 buffer beams, gear change handle
• Green or grey: 2 bonnet sides, bonnet front, bonnet back, bonnet floor, bonnet top, bonnet weight cover front, bonnet weight cover top, starter handle hole, 2 light surrounds, cab box back, cab box front, cab box top, bonnet handle wire bending jig, switch holder (not shown)
• Green/red: 32/45mm wheel gauge

Electrical and other parts

• Loco Remote Mini B
• Combined motor/gearbox
• White power connector and cable for Mini B
• PP3 battery connector
• 2 wire (red/brown) motor cable with Dupont connectors
• 2 2 wire (black/white) lights cables with Dupont connectors
• 4 x AAA battery holder
• On/off toggle switch
• 2.1mm DC power socket
• 2 clear LEDs
• 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing
• 2 M2 8mm bolts with nuts
• 2 M2 4mm bolts
• 4 M3 6mm bolts with nuts
• 2 self tapping screws
• 2 axles 63mm long with pulleys
• O ring (38mm OD, 33mm ID, 2.4mm)
• 2 0.5M20T 3mm bore brass bevel gears - Spares available from AliExpress - select 3mm bore
• 2 M3 3mm grub screws (in bevel gears) - Spares available from Amazon
• M1.5 hex head key
• 4 3mm x 7mm x 3mm double shielded bearings - Spares available from Amazon
• 4 24mm disc wheels - Spares available from Peter Binnie
• 150g tyre weights
• 1.5mm brass rod
• 0.8mm brass rod
• Rivet pin
• 2 printed gauges
• Maker's plates (not shown)

Suggested tools and glues

• Needle files
• Screwdrivers
• Sharp knife
• Tweezers
• Side cutters
• Small snipe nose pliers
• Small pliers
• 0.8mm, 0.9mm, 1.5mm, 5 mm drill bits
• Mini finger drill / pin vice
• Electrical insulating tape
• Wet and dry sandpaper
• Rubber bands
• Blu Tack
• Clamps
• UHU super glue
• Polystyrene cement (used for Airfix kits)
• Soldering iron, solder and "helping hands" (not shown) if you do not have the prewired kit

Wiring and checking the electronics

• Green or grey 3D printed switch holder
• Combined motor/gearbox
• White power connector and cable for Mini B
• PP3 battery connector
• 2 wire (red/brown) motor cable with Dupont connectors
• 2 2 wire (black/white) lights cables with Dupont connectors
• On/off toggle switch
• 2.1mm DC power socket
• 2 clear LEDs
• 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing
• 2 M2 8mm bolts with nuts

• Locate the motor, red/brown wires and thinner heat shrink tubing
• Cut 2 pieces of thinner heat shrink tubing to approx 8mm

• Strip the end of each wire and tin the ends with solder

• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on each wire
• Solder the red wire to the motor tab by the red dot

• Solder the brown wire to the other motor tab

• Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place

• Locate the parts shown in the photo
• Cut the wires on the PP3 connector to 11cm
• Keep the off-cut of red wire
• Cut 3 pieces of thinner heat shrink tubing to approx 8mm
• Cut 2 pieces of thicker heat shrink tubing to approx 8mm

• Push the DC power socket through the switch holder, ensuring the cut outs either end are as shown
• Secure it with the M2 bolts and nuts
• Remove the nuts and washers from the switch
• Push the switch through the switch holder
• Secure it with the serrated washer and a nut

• Slip a piece of thicker heat shrink tubing over both the black wires and solder these together to the DC power socket tab nearer to the switch

• Slip a piece of thinner heat shrink tubing over the red Mini B power connector wire and solder this to the switch tab nearest to the DC power socket

• Slip a piece of thinner heat shrink tubing over the red PP3 connector wire and solder this to the middle switch tab

• Strip the end of the off-cut of red wire and solder this to the final switch tab

• Slip a piece of thinner heat shrink tubing over the off-cut of red wire
• Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• Slip a piece of thicker heat shrink tubing over the off-cut of red wire
• Solder this to the remaining DC power socket tab
• Push the heat shrink tubing so it fully covers the soldered tab and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place

• The completed wiring should look like this

• Locate the parts shown in the photo
• Note that the black/white wires are different lengths - 16cm and 19cm
• Cut 4 pieces of thinner heat shrink tubing to approx 8mm
• Cut 1 piece of thicker heat shrink tubing to approx 15mm

• Slip the thicker heat shrink tubing over both of the longer 19cm wires
• Strip the ends of the wires and slip a piece of thinner heat shrink tubing over both

• Cut the longer (positive) leg of the LED just below the wider part
• Do not cut the other leg yet so you do not mix up which is positive and which is negative
• Solder the white wire to the cut leg

• Cut the other (negative) leg of the LED just below the wider part
• Solder the black wire to the cut leg

• Push each thinner heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered joins and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• Leave the thicker heat shrink tubing free to slide up and down the wires - do not apply heat to it

• Repeat for the shorter 16cm wires and LED but without the piece of thicker heat shrink tubing

• Plug the front LED (shorter wires) into the F LED pins on the bottom of the Mini B
• Plug the rear LED (longer wires) into the R LED pins on the bottom of the Mini B
• The black wires go to the pins marked - and the white to pins marked +

• Make sure the switch is set to off - the handle should be pushed so that it points inwards towards the DC power socket
• Connect the red and brown wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the top board - the red wire should be on the outer edge
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
• Put 4 AAA NiMH rechargeable batteries in the battery holder
• The batteries can be a tight fit in the holder - check they are all pushed right up so that the positive tops touch the metal otherwise you won’t get the voltage out at the PP3 connector - the negative ends should touch the springs however you move them
• IMPORTANT! Only use AAA NiMH batteries - do NOT use AAA alkaline batteries or any PP3 size battery as the voltage will be too high and will damage the Mini B
• Connect the PP3 clip to the battery holder

• Check everything works by turning the switch on
• The blue LED on the Mini B board and the front LED should do a brief flash
• Connect your smartphone to the Mini B as described in the Mini B setup guide
• Run the controller from your screen
• Tap the Lights button to turn the LEDs on and off - they go on in the direction of travel
• When going Forward, the motor shaft should be rotating clockwise when you look straight at it
• You can change the name on the screen (for example to Hibberd Type 39) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
• The Mini B has already had it's 'Shutdown on low battery' preset to off since you are not using a lipo
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the components
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain

Assembling the loco

• Locate the throttle bracket, gauge, filler cap and sander bracket
• Note there are 2 of each of these parts so you have spares

• If you paint nothing else on the kit, it is worth painting these parts
• Use a piece of double sided tape to stick the parts to an off-cut of wood or similar
• Hand paint them with brass paint - I use Humbrol 54 brass - do not use spray paints as you want to leave some parts unpainted
• Leave the slit in the sander unpainted to give a sense of depth
• Leave the bottom ring of the filler cap unpainted so it can be glued later
• Put the parts aside to dry thoroughly for at least 24 hours

• Skip these steps if you have the original form kit as it does not have bonnet handles
• The bonnet sides are symmetrical but not the same
• Locate the bonnet handle wire bending jig and thin 0.8mm brass rod

• Put the rod into the jig with the groove facing up - if it does not go in easily open the hole with a 0.9mm drill bit
• Lay the jig on a flat surface and gently bend the rod into the groove with your thumb

• Bend the rod into the groove on the side
• It should look like this

• Cut the rod flush with the bottom of the jig

• Repeat 3 more times and you should have 4 handles
• Carefully bend them with snipe nose pliers so they are square

• Check to see if a handle fits in the bonnet holes - if it does not go in easily open the holes with a 0.9mm drill bit - do not use a 1mm bit as it will open the hole too much!

• Push the 4 handles fully into the holes, adjusting with snipe nose pliers if necessary

• Decide how far you want the handles to stick out before applying any glue
• Apply dots of super glue to one of the handles from the inside of the bonnet

• Turn the bonnet over and quickly push down on the bonnet side so the handle sticks out as far as you wish
• Repeat for the other 3 handles

• Use side cutters to trim any of the rods that protrude inside the bonnet

• Locate the left (as you look from the back to front of the loco) bonnet side
• Note the rectangular inner piece is slightly close to the front (left in the photo) than the rear
• Get some electrical insulating tape

• Cut a piece of tape to just cover the brass rod ends on the inside
• Keep the tape well away from all edges so it does not interfere with the rest of the bonnet later
• Only put the tape on this bonnet side and not on the other - it is there to remove any chance of the Mini B touching a rod end and shorting - use of insulating tape is essential and not using it will void the Mini B warranty

• The completed bonnet sides should look like this - the left side is on the left

• Locate the bonnet sides, bonnet front, bonnet back, bonnet floor, bonnet weight cover front, bonnet weight cover top, starter handle hole, light surround (current form only) and radiator grill
• Cut 50g of weights exactly as shown - the number of 5g and 10g sizes matters so you have the correct number of each for other weights you will fit later - put the weights aside for now

• Prepare to glue the bonnet back to the floor, noting all the adjoining parts and that the bottom of the back will protrude below the floor

• Glue the bonnet back to the floor making sure they are perpendicular with the bottom of the back below the floor

• Glue the bonnet weight cover front in place

• Locate the bonnet front, starter handle hole, light surround and radiator grill

• Glue the radiator grill on the inside of the bonnet front making sure it is flush
• Glue the starter handle hole on the inside of the bonnet
• The light surround should be a very tight friction fit on the outside of the bonnet front - you may need to open the hole in the bonnet front very slightly with a needle file
• The complete assembly should look like this from the inside

• The complete assembly should look like this from the outside

• Glue the bonnet sides and front to the floor and back
• Note the side with the insulating tape is on the left

• Make sure all the edges are exactly aligned and perpendicular
• Use 3 rubber bands to hold the parts while drying

• A tip is to put (do not glue) the bonnet top in place while adjusting the bands to again make sure all the edges are perfectly aligned
• Put the bonnet aside for the glue to dry thoroughly before going to the next step

• Locate the chassis and 4 M3 6mm bolts with nuts

• Push the nuts into the holes underneath the chassis - the easiest way to do this is with the bolts still in place and then remove the bolts

• Screw the bolts through the bonnet floor to secure this to the chassis

• Locate the cab box back, cab box front, cab box top and light surround (current form only)
• Locate the LED light with the long 19cm wires and sliding thicker heat shrink tubing
• Cut 20g of weights exactly as shown - 4 of the 5g sizes

• Remove the blue backing strip and stick the 4 weights into the cab box front

• The light surround should be a very tight friction fit on the outside of the cab box back - you may need to open the hole in the cab box back very slightly with a needle file
• Push the LED into the light surround with the black wire nearer the side
• Use your thumb to push the LED legs and wires flat down against the inside of the cab box back

• Position the LED wires through the small hole in the cab box front
• Glue the cab box front to the back making sure the top edges are flush and sides perpendicular

• Push the thicker heat shrink tubing so it hides the wires below the hole

• Glue the cab box top in place, noting the orientation in the photo - its lip just goes over all the box edges

• Locate the chassis weight cover
• Cut 60g of weights exactly as shown - 6 of the 10g sizes

• Do NOT remove the blue backing strip from the weights
• Slot them loosely into the hole at the back of the chassis

• Feed the wires through the hole at the back of the chassis next to the weights

• Glue the cab box tabs into the slots in the chassis making sure it is perpendicular

• Glue the chassis weight cover to the chassis over the weights and to the cab box back

• Carefully feed the wires into the slots underneath the chassis as shown, with the connectors going up through the floor into the bonnet

• Locate the buffer beams

• Glue them to the tabs at the front and rear of the chassis oriented as shown

• Locate the motor, bevel gear, hex head key and 2 M2 4mm bolts

• Push the motor shaft through the hole in the chassis with the red motor wire on the left (see next photo)
• Secure the motor from underneath with the bolts
• Gently rotate the gear shaft so that the flat part is facing out
• Push a bevel gear onto the shaft with a gap - it should be a little down the shaft as shown
• Use the hex head key provided to tighten the grub screw
• Be careful for to overtighten this and strip the hex hole - if you do they are readily available hardened M3 3mm long grub screws

• Push the LED into the light surround

• Use your thumb to push the LED legs and wires flat down against the inside of the bonnet
• Carefully feed the wires into the slot beside the battery hole and then behind the motor

• Locate the switch assembly and 2 self tapping screws

• Orient the switch assembly as shown with the wires going behind the motor
• Secure it in place with the self tapping screws

• Plug the front LED (shorter wires) into the F LED pins on the bottom of the Mini B
• Plug the rear LED (longer wires) into the R LED pins on the bottom of the Mini B
• The black wires go to the pins marked - and the white to pins marked +

• Make sure the switch is set to off - the handle should be pushed so that it points inwards towards the DC power socket
• Connect the red and brown wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the top board - the red wire should be on the outer edge
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side

• Push the LED and motor wires under the Mini B and slide this into the slot at the back of the bonnet

• Put 4 AAA NiMH rechargeable batteries in the battery holder
• The batteries can be a tight fit in the holder - check they are all pushed right up so that the positive tops touch the metal otherwise you won’t get the voltage out at the PP3 connector - the negative ends should touch the springs however you move them
• IMPORTANT! Only use AAA NiMH batteries - do NOT use AAA alkaline batteries or any PP3 size battery as the voltage will be too high and will damage the Mini B
• Connect the PP3 clip to the battery holder

• Check everything works by turning the switch on
• The blue LED on the Mini B board and the front LED should do a brief flash
• Connect your smartphone to the Mini B as described in the Mini B setup guide
• Run the controller from your screen
• Tap the Lights button to turn the LEDs on and off - they go on in the direction of travel
• When going Forward, the motor shaft should be rotating clockwise when you look straight at it
• You can change the name on the screen (for example to Hibberd Type 39) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain

• Locate the 2 side frames, step, 4 wheels, 4 bearings, 2 axles, bevel gear, hex head key and wheel gauge

• Trim off any flash from the wheel flanges with a sharp knife
• Push a bevel gear loosely on one axle with the teeth facing the pulley
• Push the wheels on the axle
• Use the short side of the gauge to set the wheel back to back distance correctly for 32mm gauge, or the long side for 45mm gauge

• Put a bearing on a flat surface and push the frame down onto this with your thumb so that it fits absolutely flush in the hole
• Repeat for the other bearings
• Do not glue the bearings or adjust the holes as they are a friction fit

• Glue the step into the holes underneath the right frame if desired

• Put the axles into the bearings on the right frame (the one with the step at the back) so that the bevel gear faces towards the matching gear on the motor
• Push the right frame onto the tabs on the chassis working from one end to the other a little at a time then back again
• The tabs should go all the way in and be a tight fit

• Fit the O ring over the pulleys on the axles

• Position the left frame so that the axles go into the bearings and push this onto the tabs as before

• Move the bevel gears so that they interlock as shown - you may need to move the motor gear a small amount
• Use the hex head key provided to tighten the grub screws
• Be careful for to overtighten these and strip the hex hole - if you do they are readily available hardened M3 3mm long grub screws
• There should be a very small amount of play
• Add a drop of thin sewing machine oil to the bevel gears

• Power on the Mini B as described above
• Run the motor slowly and adjust the bevel gears as necessary
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off

• Cut 50g weights as shown

• Do NOT remove the blue backing strip from the weights
• Slot them loosely into the hole at the back of the chassis - 10g next to the back and 2 x 20g in front

• Glue the bonnet weight cover top in place

• Locate the 4 brakes, noting that there are 2 matching pairs

• There are 2 holes in the chassis near each wheel - the inner ones are for the brakes for 32mm gauge and the outer for 45mm gauge
• Glue the brakes in place for the appropriate gauge
• The curved blocks should face the wheels and the flat sides are on the inside of the chassis
• They are a tight fit but should wiggle into the holes - tip use the end of a screwdriver against the flat base to help push them all the way into the holes

• Locate the exhaust pipe, seat, gearbox base, gearbox middle, gearbox top, gear change handle, reverser bracket, forward/reverse lever, connecting rods, 0.8mm and 1.5mm brass rods and 5 x 5g weights
• Note there are 2 of each of the small parts so you have spares

• Note the orientation of the gearbox base with the round holes through the sides at the bottom in this photo and exhaust support (current version only) at the top
• Do NOT remove the blue backing strip from the weights
• Slot them loosely into the hole in the gearbox base

• Turn the gearbox middle so that the "rivets" are on the underneath and the semicircular raised part on the right
• Place this over the gearbox base

• Glue the gearbox top onto the middle and base in the orientation shown

• Glue the reverser bracket into the holes on the side of the gearbox top with the convex face pointing down

• The following steps involve fitting 0.8mm and 1.5mm brass rods - open any of the smaller holes with a 0.9mm drill bit if any are too tight for the rod to slide in
• Push the 1.5mm brass rod into the larger hole of the forward/reverse lever

• Cut the 1.5mm brass rod to around 8mm and file the ends if necessary

• Locate the longer connecting rod
• Push the 0.8mm brass rod into a hole and cut it to around 8mm
• Push the 0.8mm brass rod into the other hole and cut it to around 8mm

• Locate the shorter connecting rod
• Push the 0.8mm brass rod attached the larger connecting rod into the smaller hole as shown

• Push the other 0.8mm brass rod attached the larger connecting rod into the smaller hole on the forward/reverse lever as shown - note the orientation

• Carefully wiggle the forward/reverse lever into the reverser mount
• Push the 1.5mm brass rod into the hole on the side of the gearbox

• Push a new piece of 1.5mm brass rod all the way through the holes in the sides of the gearbox base

• Push this further into the larger hole on the shorter connecting rod

• Check that the forward/reverse lever and connecting rods can move freely
• Trim all the brass rods with a side cutter so that they protrude a little as shown
• If you wish you can add a drop of superglue to the brass rods and longer connecting rod to secure them, leaving all the other joints free to move

• Glue the cutout under the seat onto the top of the gearbox

• Choose either the red or black gear change handle
• Glue a piece of 0.8mm brass rod into the edge of the handle and cut it to the desired length
• Cut a 9mm piece of 1.5mm brass rod and glue this into the base of the handle
• Fit the handle onto the column on top of the gearbox, allowing it to rotate freely

• Locate the gear shaft plate - it is symmetrical

• Add a line of glue on one end ONLY

• Slide it in place with the glue at the bottom touching the chassis only and not the bonnet
• This allows you to remove the bonnet if ever necessary
• While it is drying you can put the gearbox on the chassis to check the hole on the side aligns with the gear shaft

• Locate the throttle bracket, gauge, filler cap and sander bracket
• Note there are 2 of each of these parts so you have spares

• If you have painted them as described above they will look like this

• Glue the filler gap into the hole on the under side of the bonnet top

• It should look like this from above

• Push a piece of 0.8mm brass rod into the hole on the back of the bonnet
• Slide the sander bracket onto the brass rod

• Glue the sander bracket to the back of the bonnet with the slightly wider part of the flat base at the top
• Cut the brass rod to the desired length

• Bend a piece of 0.8mm brass rod at a right angle with the bent part around 10mm long
• Push the brass rod through the hole in the bracket as shown

• Bend the other end of the rod at a right angle to keep the rod in place
• Do this very carefully with snipe nose pliers so as not to weaken the bracket - you have a spare bracket if necessary!
• Cut the end of the brass rod so it looks as shown

• Put the gearbox in place on the chassis to help align the throttle bracket and gauge and ensure they do not interfere with the gear change handle - suggest that you don't glue the gearbox yet to allow access to the small parts
• Glue the throttle bracket to the back of the bonnet
• Glue the gauge to the back of the bonnet

• The supplied printed gauge faces are photos of the real gauge on the current 2528

• If you have a hole punch, you should be able to align the paper as shown and cut out a gauge face exactly
• Otherwise cut out the gauge carefully

• Glue the printed face to the gauge aligned as shown

• Locate the brake lever and brake lever base

• Carefully wiggle the brake lever into the hole at the top and then push the pivot into the back of the base
• The lever should move freely and look like this

• Glue the brake lever base into the locating holes at the back of the underside of the chassis
• The handle should be on the right side - the same side as the step and gauge

• Glue the gearbox onto the top of the chassis checking the hole on the side aligns with and is pushed against the gear shaft

• Fit the gear change handle onto the column on top of the gearbox, allowing it to rotate freely

• Glue the 2 halves of the exhaust pipe together

• Glue the exhaust pipe onto the bracket and into the hole at the back of the bonnet
• The end of the pipe should be pointing down at around 45 degrees

• The completed cab fittings should look like this
• Clip the bonnet top in place - do NOT glue it

• Use double sided tape or glue to fix the Planet name plate to the top of the bonnet above the radiator grill

• Use double sided tape or glue to fix the Planet maker's plate to back of the cab box
• Cut the rivet coupling pin to the desired length

• There is a 2.1mm DC centre positive charge socket connected to the batteries when the switch is pushed towards this for use with a NiMH Smart Charger
• IMPORTANT - when you charge the batteries remove the battery holder from the body and lay it outside. The batteries can get very hot while charging and if left inside could cause the bonnet to warp!
• Alternatively you can remove the batteries from the holder and charge them individually in a NiMH charger

• Hibberd Planet Type 39 is capable of pulling a moderate load of a rake of wagons
• Driver Moth has been specially designed to fit and is available in 16mm scale from the Clavey Models eBay store
• Power it up and enjoy
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain

Differences in assembly for the original form loco

• The buffer beams are much shorter
• The slots for the tabs should be near the top as shown

• The front buffer beam looks like this
• There are no lights on the bonnet or cab box

• The bonnet sides do not have handles
• The bonnet sides are symmetrical but not the same
• Note the rectangular inner piece is slightly close to the front than the rear
• The large exhaust pipe is replaced with a small piece that is glued in the hole on the left bonnet side

• The wiring is the same as the current form but without the LEDs and with a standard Mini B