Crewe Works Tiny introduction and instructions

• Black: 2 x nameplates, 2 x wheel coupling rods, 4 x wheels with 2mm bolts, 2 x coupling bars to connect Tiny to a wagon, 4 x coupling bars to connect wagons to each other, chimney, chimney top, dome bottom, dome top, dome connector, chassis, rear support, brake handle holder, nylon sprue with small pipework parts, battery enclosure, smoke box door, pressure gauge, pressure gauge support, 2 x boiler side brackets, reverser chassis support, 2 x regulator handles, left brake, right brake, brass plate, firebox door, water filler, 2 x coupling pin tops, 3 parts of reverser linkage, reverser tank support, tank whistle rod support, front plate, front plate fastener, boiler front, boiler rear with 2mm bolt, rear plate, water tank
• Brown: 2 x brake blocks

• Loco Remote Mini B (special version)
• Combined motor and gearbox
• On/off switch with charger socket, Mini B power connector and PP3 type battery connector
• 4 x AA battery holder with PP3 type connector
• Glowing LED
• 42mm long axle
• Approx 305mm of 1.5mm diameter brass rod - this may be in 2 pieces. The 82mm piece should not be cut and is for the brake pole. The other piece can be cut as per instructions below.
• 2 x 62mm pieces of 3mm diameter brass rod
• 2 x M3 bolts and 1 x nut
• Printed pressure gauge face
• 2mm allen key for the bolts on the chassis and wheels
• Clear tube for the water gauge (not shown in picture)

• Ruler
• Pozidriv screwdriver
• 2mm allen key (included with kit)
• Needle files
• Drill bits (1.5mm and 3mm essential, 1.6mm and 2mm useful) with mini finger drill
• Sharp knife
• Metal cutters (for brass rod)
• Small snipe nose pliers
• Small hammer
• Small clamps
• Tweezers
• Wet and dry paper
• Cocktail sticks
• Revell Contacta Liquid Glue with Professional Needle Applicator
• Deluxe Materials Rocket Hot or similar super glue

Assembling Tiny

• Locate the nylon sprue containing the small parts for the pipework

• Familiarise yourself with where these will go on the back and right of the loco
• Yellow - water gauge holder
• Orange - water input valves
• Green - regulator
• Brown - tank emptying valve
• Light blue - boiler drain valve (I think!)

• Familiarise yourself with where these will go on the back and left of the loco
• Pink - valve from water tank to input

• Familiarise yourself with where these will go on the dome of the loco
• Purple - safety valve
• Dark blue - whistle

1. Cut off the green regulator and put it aside (bottom left of picture)
2. Cut and remove the short round red support at the yellow pipe of the water gauge holder and red square sprue section- leave the rest of the yellow part attached to the sprue (middle left of picture)
3. Cut and remove the short round red support at the orange pipe of the water input valves and red square sprue section - leave the rest of the orange part attached to the sprue (middle right of picture)
4. Cut and remove the short round red support connecting the top of the dark blue whistle to the square section - leave the round dark blue support attached to the red square sprue (middle left of picture)
5. Make a cut on the pink valve 3mm on the round red support 3mm from the red square sprue and then remove this 3mm part - look very carefully at the picture to see where the red support changes to pink pipe which needs to stay (bottom left of picture)

• You should be left with this - it's quite hard to make out which is why you should use the coloured guide

• Attach the sprue with blu tack to a piece of wood
• Also attach the nameplates, pressure gauge and brass plate if you want to spray them the same colour

• Spray the parts with brass colour or similar paint

• Locate the 2 boiler halves, 2 boiler side brackets, water filler and M3 nut

• Push the water filler into the square hole in the coal bunker - it is a tight fit and the easiest way is to lay the filler top down on the bench and carefully push the coal bunker onto it

• Slot the M3 nut into the hole in the bar at the top of the boiler front

• Check an M3 bolt will go through the nut then remove the bolt

• This is a tricky bit - take your time!
• Do a dry run to fit all the parts first to check they will be secure and the holes are not too tight, opening a tiny amount as needed
• Smear glue around the inside of the lip of the boiler front
• Attach the boiler rear - it can be helpful to slot the boiler into the chassis (don't glue it) as a guide
• Glue the boiler side brackets smooth side up into the holes to secure the two halves of the boiler
• Make sure the boiler is true with the sides the same height on both sides front and rear
• Put it aside to dry thoroughly and then remove the chassis

• Locate the chassis, motor, 4 wheels, 2 wheel coupling rods, 42mm axle, reverser chassis support and allen key
• Use the allen key to remove the 2mm bolts from each wheel and put these aside

• Carefully thread the motor wires through the square hole in the chassis and push the motor up fully into position
• It only fits one way with the wires pointing towards the front of the chassis
• It is a deliberately tight fit - do not use glue in case you ever need to remove the motor

• Push the wheels with the rectangular centre holes onto the axles - they are self quartering

• Use a hammer to gently tap the axle into one of the other wheels with about 1mm protruding on the outside
• Push the axle through the hole in the chassis

• Align the coupling screw holes on the wheels on one side by eye
• Push the other wheel on the axle aligning the coupling screw holes on that side by eye
• The back to back wheel spacing should be set at 28mm which means 1mm of metal axle should be showing outside each wheel
• The wheels are deliberately tight on the axles but it should be possible to grip one and gently rotate the other

• The wheels on the motor axle will be self quartered due to their rectangular mount
• Rotate the other pair of wheels so that one lines up with a motor wheel
• Check that the coupling rods will rotate freely on the 2mm bolts, using a 2mm hand drill to clear them if necessary
• Very carefully put a drop of cyanoacrylate (super glue - but ideally not "instant") into the hole on a motor wheel then screw the bolt into this through the coupling rod using the allen key - make sure you back off a half turn from fully in so the coupling rod can move freely
• Repeat the process with the wheel on the metal axle

• Turn to the other side and carefully rotate the wheel on the metal axle while holding the one on the other side so it aligns with the one on the motor
• This will take a little gentle wiggling and checking back and forth between the two sides to ensure the wheels are all correctly in quadrature
• Fix the bolt to the motor wheel through the coupling rod as before
• Repeat the process with the wheel on the metal axle

• Do not connect the battery yet
• Push the on/off switch towards the charging socket so that it is off
• Connect the white power plug into the Mini B white socket - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
• Connect the 2 wires from the motor to the 2 adjacent pins on the edge of the board with the yellow wire plugged onto the inner pin closer to the white socket so that Tiny goes in the correct direction - if you get this wrong you can always swap the wires round later
• Connect 4 AA NiMH batteries and turn the switch on - push it away from the charging socket
• Bring up the Loco Remote control interface on your phone using the guides in the links above
• Slowly increase the speed until the wheels start to turn
• Run it gently to ensure accurate alignment of the wheels and coupling rods, tweaking as necessary - take your time as it is much easier to do the wheel alignment now than when the loco is completed!
• A new motor will probably start to rotate when the speed is around 30-40% to overcome the initial resistance - once moving you can slow it down to around 10-20% and it will just rotate
• The wheels are all designed to be a friction fit and should not need gluing
• The Mini B has already had it's 'Shutdown on low battery' preset to off since you are not using a lipo
• When you are happy all is working smoothly, turn off the power and disconnect the Mini B, switch and batteries

• Glue the reverser chassis support onto the top of the chassis with the inner bar vertical as shown just behind the front wheel
• The side with the hole goes on the left side of the chassis as in the photo - don't get this the wrong way round

• Locate the front plate, smoke box door and front plate fastener
• Locate the 1.5mm brass rod - if yours is in 2 pieces put the 82mm shorter piece aside and make all the forthcoming cuts from the longer piece
• File one end of the rod so it is slightly rounded - you need to do this so it will fit easily in a hole
• Make sure you repeat this filing for subsequent steps each time you need a piece of rod
• Cut off a 27mm piece of rod with pliers and file the cut ends

• The holes on the front plate and smoke box door are 1.5mm and can be checked with a 1.5mm drill bit rotated in a finger drill
• If you wish you can open the holes on the front plate to 1.6mm but do not do this to the door holes
• Lay the font plate down flat and align the smoke box door
• Push the rounded end gently through the front plate lug into the door lug as shown - gently does it with some wiggling - it is designed to be a firm fit
• As the rod goes in make sure you support the other side of the hinge firmly with your finger so as not to snap this

• Make sure the rod is fully through both sides of the front plate hinge
• It should open easily but firmly

• Glue the front plate fastener in the groove on the back of the front plate

• Test fit the front plate in the front of chassis - it needs to be firm but easily removable
• Use a piece of wet and dry paper or a small file if necessary to open the lugs

• Locate the rear plate, firebox door, brass plate (which you may have sprayed earlier) and regulator handle (either the nylon version or a standard printed one)
• Using the same filing and cutting method as before, cut an 11mm piece of the 1.5mm brass rod for the firebox door
• Bend a small L shaped handle from the rod for the firebox handle BEFORE cutting the rod a total of around 11mm
• Cut a 9mm piece of rod for the regulator handle

• Fit the firebox to the rear plate with the brass rod using the same method as the smoke box door
• Push the L shaped handle into the firebox door hole
• Push the 9mm piece of rod through the regulator handle into the rear plate

• Locate the water tank, dome top, dome bottom, dome connector, chimney, chimney top, reverser tank support, pressure gauge, pressure gauge support, nameplates and 2 x M3 bolts

• Push the connector into the hole in the dome bottom

• Align the dome top so that the small round hole for the whistle is OPPOSITE the straight side of the dome bottom and stick them together
• If you are going to paint the dome and chimney top with copper/brass then do this now

• Tiny comes with nameplates - if you decide to use these then paint them first
• Glue one just below the rivets on one side - the left of the N should align with the central row of rivets
• Repeat for the other side

• Glue the reverser support into the 2 holes on the left side of the tank

• The centre hole in the dome bottom is 3mm and that in the top 2.6mm diameter so that when you screw an M3 bolt in it will self tap to the top to secure it
• Position the dome with the straight side facing towards the back and use an M3 bolt to fix it to the top of the tank - there is no need to glue it

• Cut off a 17mm piece of rod with pliers and file the cut ends
• Push this into the hole in the side of the pressure gauge
• Position the gauge on the support - the rod should reach down and sit in the hole on the support but not protrude the other side
• Glue the gauge in place

• The kit is supplied with a paper printed pressure gauge of a photo of Tiny's sibling Pet's gauge
• Use sharp scissors to cut this out just inside the black rim line
• Use a paper glue such as UHU to stick this to the gauge

• Glue the support to the top of the tank next to the straight edge of the dome bottom

• Push the top of the chimney on - there is no need to glue it and you may wish to paint it first
• Push an M3 bolt down through the chimney so it sticks out of the bottom - it is a snug fit and you should not need to glue it

• Push the wired on/off switch and charger socket into the hole at the front of the battery enclosure - do not glue it
• Do this carefully so the wires just bend to fit - it is designed this way so it and the switch and socket can be removed if necessary, yet they are still secured when plugging the charger in and out

• Locate the assembled boiler, battery enclosure, Mini B, glowing LED and rear plate

• Slide the Mini B all the way along the grooves under the coal bunker as shown in the photo
• It should be a firm but not over tight fit

• Push the glowing LED firmly into the hole in the top of the firebox with the wires pointing towards the front
• Connect the red and brown wires to the 2 pins sticking out of the bottom of the Mini B board with the red wire on the side nearest to the white power socket - it you get the wires reversed then the LED will not light

• Feed the long wires from the battery enclosure through the hoop at the front of the boiler
• Plug the white plug into the power socket on the Mini B
• The plug is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side

• Push the motor wires through the hole in the base of the boiler
• Trial fit pushing the motor all the way in so that the boiler goes onto the chassis
• The lug on the bottom of the back of the boiler slots into the narrow gap by the footplate
• It should be a tight but not over tight fit so gently use wet and dry paper on the front and back lugs if necessary

• This part is tricky - take your time
• Lift the boiler just off the chassis
• Glue the rear plate to all the edges on the back of the boiler and coal bunker
• IMPORTANT - make sure all the small holes to take the pipework in the rear plate are aligned with the corresponding holes in the back of the boiler - you can use a 1.5mm drill bit to help
• Before the glue sets push the assembly back onto the chassis - the rear plate and lug at the back of the boiler push firmly into the narrow gap by the footplate with a wiggle
• DO NOT GLUE the boiler to the chassis in case you ever need to remove it
• Check again the small holes are aligned

• This is a correctly aligned rear plate - note you can see right through the hole at the top left - and all the others

• Connect the 2 wires from the motor to the 2 adjacent pins on the edge of the Mini B with the yellow wire plugged onto the inner pin closer to the white socket so that Tiny goes in the correct direction - if you get this wrong you can always swap the wires round later

• Make sure the on/off switch is towards the charger socket
• Slot the battery holder with batteries into the battery enclosure
• Connect the PP3 clips
• Turn the switch on
• The firebox LED should be glowing and flickering
• Connect your phone to the Mini B as before and check the wheels turn forwards when you increase the speed in forwards
• When you are happy all is working correctly turn the switch off

• Push the battery enclosure into the boiler
• Check the fit of the front plate - push it down into the chassis and then back to clip into the hoop - DO NOT GLUE IT
• Open the smoke box door to access the switch and charging socket
• Remove the front plate

• Push the clips at the back of the water tank into the hoop at the top of the coal bunker
• You may need to wiggle it a little to go over the water filler

• Screw the chimney through the top of the tank into the bolt at the front to secure it
• DO NOT GLUE the tank as it is removable for access

• Locate the 3 parts of reverser linkage
• Cut off a 34mm piece of rod with pliers and file the cut ends
• Cut off 2 x 6mm pieces of rod with pliers and file the cut ends

• Push the 34mm rod right into the deep hole of the small linkage
• Put the other end of the this piece into the end of the central reverser linkage
• Note the central linkage has a slight angle - it should slope slightly away from the boiler (down in the photo) as it goes away from the small linkage
• Push a 6mm piece of rod in to secure the 2 pieces
• Put the end of the long reverser handle into the other end of the central reverser linkage
• Push a 6mm piece of rod in to secure the 2 pieces

• Use the allen key to remove the 2mm bolt in the boiler
• Push the 34mm rod right through the hole on the chassis support
• Push the reverser handle through the support on the water tank
• Push the bolt through the handle and use the allen key to screw this back into the tank
• Back the bolt off a little so the reverser can move

• Locate the brakes, brake blocks, rear support, brake handle holder and the 3mm brass rods
• If your 82mm long piece of 1.5mm rod was not already supplied cut, then cut a piece with pliers and file the cut ends
• Cut off a 36mm piece of rod with pliers and file the cut ends
• Bend a small L shaped brake handle from the rod BEFORE cutting the rod a total of around 19mm

• File both ends of the 3mm brass rods so they are smooth and will go into the holes more easily
• Tap each rod into the holes on the rear support with a hammer

• Carefully push the other ends of the 3mm rods into the footplate holes

• Glue the brake blocks into the brakes, oriented as shown

• Push the 36mm rod right firmly into the larger brake
• Push the rod through the chassis

• Push the other brake onto the end of the rod on the other side
• Push the 82mm rod through the hole in the rear support and footplate (it should slide freely through these) into the end of the larger brake

• Push the brake handle rod into the holder
• Push the holder onto the top 82mm long rod - trim the rod slightly if necessary or push it further through the brake at the other end so that the holder just sits on the support

• Using this photo as a guide cut the pipework off the sprue
• Make sure you keep all the parts that are not red as the little round lugs on each are used for fixing them

• You should have 7 pieces that look like this

• Push the "yellow" water gauge holder into the 2 holes on the rear plate
• Push the "orange" water input values into the 3 holes on the rear plate
• Push and glue the "brown" tank emptying valve into the hole on the right side of the water tank
• Push and glue the "light blue" valve from water tank to input into the hole on the right side of the boiler

• Push and glue the "pink" tank emptying valve into the right side of the water tank so that it aligns with the "orange" water input valve - do not glue it to this sine the water tank is removable
• When the glue has set, carefully remove the water tank (you will need to flex it a little) and then cut the pieces that protrude into it from the "brown" and "pink" valves off inside so the tank can go on and off without fouling

• Glue the "purple" safety valve into the top of the dome, pointing backwards
• Push and glue the "dark blue" whistle into the hole at the front of the dome

• The back of Tiny should look like this

• Find an old biro and cut a clear piece to fit as the water gauge glass
• If you don't have a biro use the supplied clear tube, but biro is better - apologies that I did not have a lot of empty biros to supply with the kits!

• Fit the water tank and front plate if they are not already on
• The right side should look like this

• The left side should look like this

• Tiny's whistle was operated by a horizontal rod supported by a vertical rod behind the water filler - this photo shows that on Pet
• There is a small hole in the top of the tank and a supplied cuboid tank whistle rod support if you wish to add this
• Glue the support inside the tank with the 1.5mm diameter holes aligned and add your own rods (not included with the kit)

• 4 x AA NiMH batteries fit in the holder which slides into the tank
• For general access you only need to clip off the front plate if you want to remove the batteries to charge them outside the loco

• The on/off switch and battery charger socket can be easily accessed by opening the smoke box door
• Switch towards the socket is off/connected to charger - switch away from the socket turns the Mini B on
• If the firebox LED is glowing then the power is on
• Always turn the switch off when not in use to avoid flattening the batteries - check the firebox LED is off

• The charge socket is a standard 2.1mm DC power socket with positive centre pin
• The batteries can be charged directly using a smart charger suitable for NiMH battery packs - contact Strikalite if you do not already have one and ask for a 2.1mm DC power plug with positive centre pin
• If you don't have and don't want a smart charger then just remove the batteries from the battery holder and charge them individually in an AA charger

• Tiny is supplied with 2 locomotive to wagon coupling bars and 4 wagon to wagon coupling bars suitable for use with Harecroft wagons
• Cut off a 16mm piece of rod with pliers and file the cut ends
• Push this into the small round coupling pin top - there are 2 in the kit

• As per the original the hole for the coupling pin is under the footplate and a bid fiddly to access
• Position the long coupling bar with the hole and the other end pointing down under the footplate and insert the coupling pin
• Connecting the Harecroft wagons to each other is easier with the short bars
• If you wish to use a different style of coupling then either make a long rod that fits reaches the footplate hole or add a hook at the back of the footplate

• Tiny is capable of pulling a prototypical train of wagons
• Power it up and enjoy