16mm scale Super and Mega Griff
introduction and instructions

Super Griff 16mm scale powered waggon parts

• Black: chassis, 4 wheels, 4 axle boxes, 2 coupling hooks, 4 brakes, brake handle, brake handle support
• Grey: 2 cage sides, 2 cage ends, cage top, slate load bottom, slate load top, 2 slate load weights covers, weights box, speaker surround (optional), switch holder, switch holder jig (unsoldered wiring only), wheel jig
• Red/white: last vehicle sign

• 2 50mm long axles
• Brass coupling loop
• Approx 18mm of 1.5mm diameter brass rod
• 2 10mm M2 bolts with nuts
• 4 0.5M20T 3mm bore brass bevel gears - Spares available from AliExpress - select 3mm bore
• 4 M3 3mm grub screws (in bevel gears) - Spares available from Amazon
• 2 M3 washers
• M1.5 hex head key
• 140g tyre weights
• Cocktail stick

Mega Griff 16mm scale powered waggon additional parts

• Black: chassis, 4 wheels, 4 axle boxes, 2 coupling hooks, 4 brakes, brake handle, brake handle support
• Grey: 2 cage sides, 2 cage ends, cage top, slate load bottom, slate load top, 2 slate load weights covers

• 2 50mm long axles
• Brass coupling loop
• Approx 18mm of 1.5mm diameter brass rod
• 2 10mm M2 bolts with nuts
• 4 0.5M20T 3mm bore brass bevel gears - Spares available from AliExpress - select 3mm bore
• 4 M3 3mm grub screws (in bevel gears) - Spares available from Amazon
• 2 M3 washers
• 320g tyre weights

Super and Mega Griff electrical parts

• Custom Loco Remote Mini B
• Combined motor and gearbox (2 for Super, 4 for Mega)
• On/off switch
• 2.1mm DC power socket
• White power connector and cable for Mini B
• PP3 type battery cable
• 4 x AAA battery holder with PP3 type connector
• 6cm long flexible motor cables with 4 way Dupont connector at one end
• 20cm long flexible motor cables with 4 way Dupont connector at one end (only for Mega)
• Speaker (optional)
• 2 wire speaker cable with Dupont connectors at one end (optional)
• Heat shrink tubing

• Ruler
• Needle file
• Hammer
• 3.2mm drill bit with mini finger drill
• Sharp knife
• Small pliers
• Small snipe nose pliers
• Wooden clothes pegs
• Rubber band
• Polystyrene cement (used for Airfix kits)
• Cyanoacrylate (super glue)
• Small Pozidriv screwdriver
• M1.5 hex head key (included with the kit)
• Wire cutter if you do not have the prewired kit
• Wire stripper if you do not have the prewired kit
• Soldering iron, solder and "helping hands" (not shown) if you do not have the prewired kit

Wiring

• Locate the printed switch holder and jig, on/off switch, DC power socket and power cables
• Cut the black wire attached to the white Mini B power connector to 60mm
• Cut the red wire attached to the white Mini B power connector to 45mm
• Cut the off-cut of red wire to 25mm
• Cut the wires attached to the black PP3 battery connector to 80mm

• Place the on/off switch and DC power socket into the holes in the jig - it is much easier to do the soldering in the jig than in the actual switch holder

• Cut a piece of heat shrink tubing to 7mm and slip it over BOTH black wires
• Strip the ends of both black wires and solder them to the tab on the DC power socket near the switch
• Push the heat shrink tubing so it fully covers the soldered tab and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place

• Strip the end of the off-cut of red wire and solder this to the tab on the switch nearest the DC power socket

• Cut 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing to 7mm and slip them over the red wire
• Solder the red wire to the remaining tab on the DC power socket so that it is over the black wires in the orientation shown in the photo
• Push the 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place

• Cut 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing to 7mm and slip them separately over the red wires of the Mini B and PP3 power cables
• Strip the end of the PP3 red wire and solder this to the middle tab on the switch

• Strip the end of the Mini B red wire and solder this to the remaining outer tab on the switch
• Push the 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place

• The completed wiring should look like this

• Remove the switch and DC power socket from the jig and push them into the switch holder, checking they fit well
• The switch is held in place by the DC power socket
• Push the DC power socket out slightly and apply a drop of super glue to each side using a cocktail stick as shown - make sure no glue goes in the switch
• Push the switch and DC power socket fully into the switch holder
• Make sure the switch operates both ways

• The completed wiring should look like this

• Separate the grey and purple wires, cut them to 55mm and strip the ends

• Cut 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing to 9mm and slip them separately over the wires
• Solder the wires to the speaker tabs - do this quickly and carefully since if you leave the soldering iron on the tab for too long it could loosen the tab and internal wires
• Push the 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place

• Locate 2 motors and put them on a flat surface - look at them very carefully
• Getting them the right way up is extremely important so that they both rotate in the correct direction
• The side facing you should have the full width bar across the gearbox - the one marked Yes
• If you have the half width bar facing you - the one marked No - then turn it over
• As another check, if both motors are correctly placed - i.e both should be as the one marked Yes - then they will magnetically stick together

• Locate the 6cm long flexible motor cables with 4 way Dupont connector at one end
• Getting this the right way up is extremely important so that both the motors rotate in the correct direction
• The side facing you should have the 4 metal pieces on the connector showing and the wire with a white band at the side shown in the photo

• Strip the ends of the wires to around 3-4mm (no more) and tin the ends with solder

• Align the motors and wires with the sides showing as described above - they should look like the photo - note the full width bar across the gearboxes and the metal pieces on the connector should be facing you
• Getting them the right way up is extremely important so that the motors both rotate in the correct direction

• Cut 4 pieces of heat shrink tubing to 6mm and slip them separately over the wires
• Turn a motor on its side and solder the wire with the white band to the motor tab shown - it's the one at the bottom of the previous photo

• Turn the motor on the other side and solder the second wire (next to the one with the white band) to the tab

• The first motor should look like the one in the bottom of the photo with the wire with the white band at the bottom
• Turn the second motor on its side as shown and solder the third wire (next one along) to the motor tab

• Turn the second motor on the other side and solder the final wire (the outer one) to the motor tab
• The 2 motors should now look like this with the full width bars across the gearbox on top and the wire with the white band at the bottom
• As another check, if both motors are correctly placed then they will magnetically stick together
• As a final check look at the next 2 photos
• When you are confident all the wires are attached correctly push the 4 pieces of heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place

• Photo of the 2 motors rotated 90 degrees on their side - look carefully at the gearbox and wire with the white band

• Photo of the ends of the 2 motors - note the + on each motor
• The wire with the white band goes to the other (i.e not +) tab of the first motor
• The next wire goes to the + tab of the first motor
• The third wire goes to the other (i.e not +) tab of the second motor
• The final wire goes to the + tab of the second motor

• If you have a Mega Griff, then locate the other 2 motors and the 20cm long flexible motor cables with 4 way Dupont connector at one end
• Strip the ends of the wires to around 3-4mm (no more) and tin the ends with solder
• Cut 4 pieces of heat shrink tubing to 6mm and slip them separately over the wires

• These motors should be wired identically as described with the shorter cables above
• This is the first motor with the full width bar across the gearbox on top and the wire with the white band at the bottom

• This is the third wire attached to the second motor, then solder on the final wire

• The 2 motors should now look like this with the full width bars across the gearbox on top and the wire with the white band at the bottom
• As another check, if both motors are correctly placed then they will magnetically stick together
• As a final check look at the same 2 photos as for the first pair of motors above
• When you are confident all the wires are attached correctly push the 4 pieces of heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place

Connecting the electronics

• Place the Mini B face down so the green board is facing you - if you have the version without sound then a blue board with Motor Shield written on it is facing you
• Plug the 4 way Dupont connector with the 6cm cables into the lower 4 pin connector on the Mini B
• The side facing you should have the 4 metal pieces on the connector showing and the wire with a white band at the top side shown in the photo

• Plug the 4 way Dupont connector with the 20cm cables into the upper 4 pin connector on the Mini B
• The side facing you should have the 4 metal pieces on the connector showing and the wire with a white band at the top side shown in the photo - this is identical to the previous step

• Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed towards the DC power socket
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
• IMPORTANT! Only use 4 x AAA NiMH rechargeable batteries. Do not use Alkaline as their voltage may be too high and definitely do NOT connect a 9V PP3 battery even though it has the same clips as this will immediately destroy the Mini B.
• Connect the PP3 clip to the battery holder

• Connect the 2 wires from the speaker to the 2 pins in the middle of the green board marked Speaker - it does not matter which way round

• Check everything works by connecting 4 x AAA NiMH batteries and turning the switch on. The bugle should sound.
• Connect your smartphone to the Mini B as described in the Mini B setup guide. The Mini B has already had it's 'Shutdown on low battery' preset to off since you are not using a lipo.
• Run the controller from your screen. Click here to download a video of the correct operation. When going Forward, the motor shafts should be rotating as shown - from left to right - clockwise, anti-clockwise, clockwise, anti-clockwise
• If the motors are not rotating as described then check that you have plugged the Dupont connectors in the right way (with the metal pieces on top) and the wiring to each motor is correct. If they are still not correct then please contact Loco Remote. Do not proceed further as the motors may fight against each other in the chassis!
• Tap the sound buttons to play the 4 sounds. 2 are bugles and 2 background running noises - note these are not related to motor speed.
• You can change the name on the screen and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide.
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the components - hold the white socket on the board when you remove the white power plug as they are keyed and a tight fit
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain.

Assembling the Super Griff waggon

• Locate the slate load top, loads weights covers and 2 40g strips of tyre weights

• Remove the blue sticky backing and push the tyre weights firmly into the cut outs on the slate top

• Glue the weights covers over these

• Locate the cage sides, ends and top - note the sides are different with one having brake handle mounts

• Glue the cage end lugs into the sides, noting that the strips along the bottom are wider than those on the top of each piece

• It should look like this

• Run a fine line of glue along the inside edges of the cage top
• Gently squeezing the sides, push the narrower strips of the cage frame into the cut out on the top
• The top is a deliberately tight fit so you need to squeeze the end between your fingers a little bending the end as shown so that the side sits in the gap of the top - you should feel it clip in place

• Use 6 or more wooden pegs to clamp the sides and edges to the top as shown, again making sure they are all in the grooves under the top and not bowed
• Use a rubber band round the bottom of the sides and edges to keep these tight and aligned while drying - make sure it is not so tight it bends the ends or sides
• Make sure the bottom is square on a flat surface and put the cage aside to dry

• Locate the 4 wheels, 2 axles, 2 bevel gears, hex head key and wheel jig

• Push an axle onto a wheel and place the wheel inside the wheel jig
• The wheels are a deliberately tight fit on the axles - do not open up the centre holes at all
• Put the jig on a flat surface and use a hammer to tap the axle through the wheel - it is shown on its side in the photo

• Slide a bevel gear onto the axle, loosening the grub screw as needed, then tightening it to stop it moving
• Put a wheel onto the other end of the axle
• Use the wheel jig and hammer as before to fit the wheel

• Repeat for the other wheels, axle and bevel gear
• You should find that using the jig the wheel back to back distance is set automatically at the correct 28mm for 32mm gauge track

• Locate the chassis, 4 brakes, 4 axle boxes, 2 axles with wheels, coupling hook and brass coupling loop
• Check the axles move freely in the axle boxes - if any don't then open up the axle box hole with the 3.2mm drill bit in the mini finger drill

• Put the axles in the axle boxes
• Push the axle boxes into the holes on the sides of the chassis - these are a deliberately tight fit and need not be glued so they can be removed
• Check the axles rotate freely and adjust the axle box holes if necessary

• Glue the 4 brakes into the holes on the underside of the chassis aligning them with the wheels as shown

• The chassis should look like this

• Slide the brass loop into the chassis coupling hole on the end with the speaker hole - it is important that it does not go the other end!
• Slide the coupling hook onto this making sure the hook is oriented as shown so it faces the chassis
• Note that 2 hooks are provided in case you wish to add one to the other end of the chassis with a piece of brass chain, but this does make it much more difficult to couple up waggons so is not recommended

• Use a small pair of pliers to close the loop

• Push the M2 nuts into the holes in the opposite corners of the chassis - the easiest way to do this is to fit the bolt through from the other side and tighten this to pull the nut fully in

• Pull out the axle boxes nearest to each motor support as shown and remove the axles

• Locate the 2 motors with the 6cm wires, 2 bevel gears, hex head key and chassis
• Take your time over the next steps and study the photos carefully - you only want to insert the motors once to avoid straining or breaking the wire joints - once in the chassis they should stay in

• Take the motor with the wire with the white band and turn it so the tab with this wire faces up
• Fit the bevel gear, tightening with the hex head key, and rotate this gently by hand so that the grub screw faces down (i.e the opposite side to the wire with white band)
• Remove the bevel gear
• Push the body of the motor firmly into the hole on the chassis so that the shaft comes through under the speaker hole
• It is a tight push fit and you will need to overcome some bumps on the inside of the hole which hold the motor securely in place - take your time and do NOT push it in via the wires
• The wires will be a tight fit, especially the one further in the hole

• Notice that there is a half width bar facing up on the gearbox of the first motor
• Orient the second motor the same way - the third wire (i.e the inside one) should be on the motor tab that now faces up
• Fit the bevel gear, tightening with the hex head key, and rotate this gently by hand so that the grub screw faces down (i.e the opposite side to the third wire)
• Remove the bevel gear
• Push the body of the second motor firmly into the hole on the chassis so that the shaft comes through under the end opposite the speaker hole
• It is a tight push fit and you will need to overcome some bumps on the inside of the hole which hold the motor securely in place - take your time and do NOT push it in via the wires
• The wires will be a tight fit, especially the one further in the hole
• Make sure it looks as shown in the photo

• Fit the 2 bevel gears to the motor shafts
• Note that if you ever have to remove a motor, you should remove the bevel gear and then use a pencil end to push against the motor body through the hole in the chassis - only do this if a motor fails

• Loosen the bevel gears on the axles
• Replace the axles and push the gear boxes into the chassis
• Note the orientation of the axle bevel gears so they mesh with those on the motor shafts
• Adjust the bevel gears so they mesh accurately together with minimal play and tighten the grub screws
• Make sure there is a very tiny gap between the motor bevel gears and the chassis so they do not rub when rotating
• The M3 washers can be used behind the bevel gears on the motor in the extremely unlikely even that there is a significant gap between these and the chassis

• VERY carefully push the wires in the holes so they are flat with the top of the chassis - gently does it so you do not snap any joints
• Note the cut out between the motors on the chassis that the wires from the lower motor in the photo will fit through

• Push the motor wires through the hole in the bottom of the slate load so it looks like the photo - wiggle and bend the wires carefully to fit
• Fit the 2 M2 bolts through the holes in the opposite corners and screw them to the bolts in the chassis - a tip is to put a small dot of Blu Tack on the end of the screwdriver to hold the bolt as you push it through

• Place the speaker in the cut out with the wires facing towards the centre as shown
• Glue the circular speaker surround it place - it will only go one way round

• With the switch holder oriented as shown, bend the wires so they come out at 90 degrees
• Trial fit this in the corner to check the wires clear the speaker

• Place the Mini B face down so the green board is facing you - if you have the version without sound then a blue board with Motor Shield written on it is facing you
• Plug the 4 way Dupont connector with the 6cm cables into the lower 4 pin connector on the Mini B
• The side facing you should have the 4 metal pieces on the connector showing and the wire with a white band at the top side shown in the photo
• If you have a Mega Griff, do not connect anything to the upper 4 pin connector for now - you can test and run this waggon as a Super Griff on its own for now

• Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed towards the DC power socket
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side

• Connect the 2 wires from the speaker to the 2 pins in the middle of the green board marked Speaker - it does not matter which way round
• Unscrew the bolt in the corner behind the Mini B
• Fit the bolt through the hole in the bottom board of the Mini B and align the Mini B on the pins on the slate load floor
• Screw the bolt through to the nut in the chassis to secure the Mini B - a tip is to put a small dot of Blu Tack on the end of the screwdriver to hold the bolt as you push it through
• Position the switch holder over the speaker but do not glue it yet

• Connect the batteries and turn the power switch on
• Connect your smartphone to the Mini B as described in the section above
• Tap the Faster button a couple of times and the Griff should move towards the LEFT as shown in the photo when going forwards
• If both motors are running as expected then glue the switch holder in place

• Turn the Griff over
• Use the hex head key to adjust the bevel gears so they just mesh and rotate smoothly when the motors are running in both directions
• The motors should both turn from 5% speed with fully charged NiMH batteries if the gears are well aligned and not touching the chassis
• Add a drop of light sewing machine oil to the gears and to the end of each axle so lubricate the axle boxes
• Turn the power switch off

• Align the cage with the side with the brake handle mounts as shown - i.e on the side with the batteries

• Run a thin line of glue right round the edge of the chassis - do not get any on the slate load as this should be removable for servicing

• Glue the cage onto the chassis - the cut outs on the ends should fit over the buffer loop and the bottom of the cage should be flat with the bottom of the chassis
• Note that the brake handle mount on the solebar of the chassis is offset with the hole for the brass rod towards the brake handle support (top in the photo)

• Locate the brake handle, support and 1.5mm brass rod
• File both ends of the brass rod smooth

• Fit the brake handle using the 1.5mm brass rod to the hole in the chassis - it should be a tight fit and movable

• Glue the curved brake handle support onto the side with the mounts
• Check the cut out on the handle fits over the curved brake handle support throughout its travel, adjusting the support if necessary before the glue dries

• Locate the weights box and remaining 60g tyre weights
• Cut the weights into 4 15g strips

• Remove the blue sticky backing and push the tyre weights firmly into the box - they stack 2 deep

• Glue the weights box into the corner of the slate load top on the opposite side from the letter A with the narrower side of the box against the longer side of the load top
• Note that the Mega Griff additional waggon does not have this load box

• Sit the slate load top on the slate bottom
• Do not glue the top to bottom for the Griff so you can access the interior
• If you have 3 ton loads for other unpowered waggons, then do glue the top and bottom firmly together and just sit them in the waggons
• If you have the Super and not Mega Griff then skip to the Charging and running section at the very end

Assembling the Mega Griff additional waggon

• Follow the instructions for the Super Griff above to assemble the slate load top, cage, chassis and coupling as far as the step "Chassis - 6"

• Locate the 2 motors with the 20cm wires, 2 bevel gears, hex head key and chassis
• Take your time over the next steps and study the photos carefully - you only want to insert the motors once to avoid straining or breaking the wire joints - once in the chassis they should stay in

• Take the motor with the wire with the white band and turn it so the tab with this wire faces up
• Fit the bevel gear, tightening with the hex head key, and rotate this gently by hand so that the grub screw faces down (i.e the opposite side to the wire with white band)
• Remove the bevel gear
• Push the body of the motor firmly into the hole on the chassis so that the shaft comes through under the speaker hole
• It is a tight push fit and you will need to overcome some bumps on the inside of the hole which hold the motor securely in place - take your time and do NOT push it in via the wires
• The wires will be a tight fit, especially the one further in the hole

• Notice that there is a half width bar facing up on the gearbox of the first motor
• Orient the second motor the same way - the third wire (i.e the inside one) should be on the motor tab that now faces up
• Fit the bevel gear, tightening with the hex head key, and rotate this gently by hand so that the grub screw faces down (i.e the opposite side to the third wire)
• Remove the bevel gear
• Push the body of the second motor firmly into the hole on the chassis so that the shaft comes through under the end opposite the speaker hole
• It is a tight push fit and you will need to overcome some bumps on the inside of the hole which hold the motor securely in place - take your time and do NOT push it in via the wires
• The wires will be a tight fit, especially the one further in the hole
• Make sure it looks as shown in the photo

• Fit the 2 bevel gears to the motor shafts
• Note that if you ever have to remove a motor, you should remove the bevel gear and then use a pencil end to push against the motor body through the hole in the chassis - only do this if a motor fails
• Loosen the bevel gears on the axles
• Replace the axles and push the gear boxes into the chassis
• Note the orientation of the axle bevel gears so they mesh with those on the motor shafts
• Adjust the bevel gears so they mesh accurately together with minimal play and tighten the grub screws
• Make sure there is a very tiny gap between the motor bevel gears and the chassis so they do not rub when rotating
• The M3 washers can be used behind the bevel gears on the motor in the extremely unlikely event that there is a significant gap between these and the chassis

• Note that there is a rectangular hole in one end of the slate load bottom (see previous photo) that should be at the OPPOSITE end to the large hole in the chassis floor - if you get this wrong the 2 chassis will go in opposite directions!
• Push the motor wires through the hole in the bottom of the slate load so it looks like the photo - wiggle and bend the wires carefully to fit
• Fit the 2 M2 bolts through the holes in the opposite corners and screw them to the bolts in the chassis - a tip is to put a small dot of Blu Tack on the end of the screwdriver to hold the bolt as you push it through

• Push the wires through the cage
• Align and fit the cage to chassis as described above

• Fit the brake handle and support as described above

• Feed the wires through the hole in the end of the slate load bottom, in the orientation shown with the wire with the white band at the top

• Fit 2 strips of 60g tyre weights into the holders on each side - just slide them in without removing the blue sticky backing

• Feed the wires through the hole in the end of the Super Griff slate load bottom, in the orientation shown with the wire with the white band at the top

• Disconnect the speaker wires from the Mini B
• Plug the 4 way Dupont connector with the 20cm cables into the upper 4 pin connector on the Mini B
• The side facing you should have the 4 metal pieces on the connector showing and the wire with a white band at the top side shown in the photo
• Reconnect the speaker wires

• The wiring should look like this

• Connect the batteries and turn the power switch on
• Fit the slate load tops and turn the waggons over
• Connect your smartphone to the Mini B as described in the section above
• Tap the Faster button a couple of times and check all the wheels rotate in the same direction
• Use the hex head key to adjust the bevel gears so they just mesh and rotate smoothly when the motors are running in both directions
• The motors should both turn from 5% speed with fully charged NiMH batteries if the gears are well aligned and not touching the chassis
• Add a drop of light sewing machine oil to the gears and to the end of each axle to lubricate the axle boxes
• Turn the power switch off

• Use the cocktail stick or piece of wire to couple the hook from the Super Griff chassis onto the Mega Griff

• The optional storage box has been designed to allow the 2 waggons to be permanently coupled in storage and to keep them secure, even when upside down
• The lid may be a tight fit but will ease after going on and off a few times

Charging and running Super and Mega Griff

• There is a 2.1mm DC centre positive charge socket connected to the batteries when the switch is pushed towards this for use with a NiMH Smart Charger
• IMPORTANT - when you charge the batteries remove the battery holder from the body and lay it outside. The batteries can get very hot while charging and if left inside could cause the load or cage to warp!
• Alternatively you can remove the batteries from the holder and charge them individually in a NiMH charger

• Custom brakemen are available from the Clavey Models eBay store
• If you have a Mega Griff always make sure it is coupled with the hook to the Super Griff before starting so that you don't pull the wires between the waggons
• The Loco Remote slate waggons and loads are light and free running so Super Griff can haul at least 20 of them and Mega Griff at least 30 on the level on dry rails. If you decide to add weight to the waggons or use other heavier ones then they may pull fewer.
• IMPORTANT - do not overload the motors or controller by trying to add on too long or heavy a train. If it won't start moving easily without wheels slipping on the level, then you have added too heavy a load. Do not add extra weights to the powered Griff waggons.
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain