Planet 6hp Motor Driven Truck
16mm and 7/8ths inch scale introduction and instructions

Parts - 16mm shown with notes below on 7/8ths version

• Black: chassis with 2mm bolt, left and right frame sides, 2 frame ends, 2 buffer plates, 4 wheels, 2 pulleys on axles, motor pulley, coupling hook, front and rear brake bars, 6 brakes, brake handle, 2 tipper supports (optional), box frame (optional)
• Brown: cab floor, seat, 4 box sides (optional)
• Grey: wheel gauge
• Colour: cab, engine cover, fuel tank, 4 fuel caps, tipper (optional), 2 tipper trunnions (optional)

• Loco Remote Mini B
• Combined motor and gearbox
• White power connector and wires for Mini B
• Lipo battery connector and wires
• 2 wire (yellow/orange) motor cable with Dupont connectors
• Heat shrink tubing
• On/off slide switch
• 3 link brass chain

• O ring (32mm OD, 28mm ID, 2mm)
• O ring (22mm OD, 18mm ID, 2mm)
• 2 axles 50mm long
• 42mm long 1.5mm brass rod
• 2 36mm long 0.8mm brass rods

Wiring and electronics check
16mm left column in black, 7/8ths right column in blue

• It is important that you cut the wires to exactly the lengths given - these lengths are for just the wires and do not include the connectors
• Cut the red and black wires attached to the white Mini B power connector to 45mm - keep the black wire offcut
• DO NOT cut the red and black wires attached to the white lipo battery connector
• Separate the orange and yellow wires
• Cut the orange wire to 35mm
• Cut the yellow wire to 25mm

• Locate the motor, yellow and orange wires and thinner clear heat shrink tubing
• Push the motor pulley onto the spindle with a 1mm gap to the brass bush
• Cut 2 pieces of thinner heat shrink tubing to approx 8mm
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on each wire and strip the ends by 2-3mm
• Orient the motor as shown
• Solder the yellow wire to the tab closer to the pulley - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
• Solder the orange wire to the other tab - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
• Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• These connections can be fragile so don't bend them until you are ready to put the motor in the chassis later
• If you accidentally attach the yellow and orange wires the wrong way round don't worry - it just means you will need to connect them to the motor output pins of the Mini B the other way round so that the loco runs forwards correctly
• IMPORTANT - make absolutely sure the soldered tabs are fully covered by the tubing and there is no possibility of any tabs or exposed wires touching and causing a short
• Make sure the completed motor wiring is the same as the photo

• Locate the on/off switch, power cables and thicker heat shrink tubing
• Cut one outer tab off the switch - the tab holes are small and you may wish to widen these with a 1mm drill bit in a finger / pin vice to allow the wires to fit more easily
• Cut 2 pieces of thicker heat shrink tubing to approx 8mm and 2 to approx 12mm
• Strip the ends of the Mini B connector wire and the offcut of black wire to 3-4mm
• Solder the black wire of the lipo connector to the black offcut to lengthen the black lipo wire
• Slip a 12mm piece of heat shrink tubing over this to cover the join and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place
• Slip an 8mm piece of heat shrink tubing over both black wires
• Solder the black wire of the Mini B connector onto the middle switch tab
• Solder the lengthened black wire of the lipo connector onto the outer switch tab
• Push the heat shrink tubing on the black wires so it fully covers the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• Slip a 12mm piece of heat shrink tubing over a red wire and solder the red wires together
• Push the heat shrink tubing to cover the join and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place
• IMPORTANT - make absolutely sure the soldered tabs and red black wire joins are fully covered by the tubing and there is no possibility of any tabs or exposed wires touching and causing a short
• Make sure the completed switch wiring is the same as the photo

• Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 black wires
• Connect the 2 yellow and orange wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the edge of the board with the yellow wire plugged onto the outer pin further from the white socket so that loco goes in the correct direction - if you get this wrong you can always swap the wires round later
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
• Connect the 3.7V 380mAh lipo battery

Motor and controller check - photo shows 16mm version but 7/8ths is similar

• Turn the switch on
• The blue LED on the Mini B board should do a brief flash
• Connect your smartphone to the Mini B as described in the Mini B setup guide
• Run the controller from your screen
• When going Forward, the motor shaft should be rotating anti-clockwise as you look directly at it - if it is rotating clockwise reverse the yellow and orange motor wires
• You can change the name on the screen (for example to Planet) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the components
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the battery does not fully drain

Assembling the loco - photos show 16mm version
Notes in BLUE refer to key differences with the battery size and brakes on the 7/8ths version

• Locate the chassis with 2mm bolt, left and right frame sides, 2 frame ends and 2 buffer plates
• Check the axles are able to rotate freely in the axle boxes

• Glue the frame sides to the chassis

• Glue the buffer plates to the chassis ensuring they are perpendicular with a clamp

• Glue the frame ends to the underside of the chassis and secure with clamps

• Glue the coupling hook to the hole in the top plate - the top slopes slightly down towards the front

• Locate the 4 wheels, axles with pulleys and wheel gauge

• Use a hammer to tap an axle into the back of a wheel
• Put the wheel on the gauge on a hard surface and tap the axle through to touch the surface

• Repeat for all the wheels
• Using the wheel gauge supplied will set the correct wheel back to back distance for 32mm or 45mm gauge track

• Remove the 2mm bolt from the underside of the chassis
• Plug the power connector into the Mini B
• Push the switch onto the lugs with the outer wire on the outside of the chassis
• The lugs are a tight fit - the switch should wiggle on, but if not open out the switch holes slightly with a needle file
• Make sure that the switch will fully click on and off, lengthening the hole in the chassis slightly if necessary - attach the lipo battery and look for a blue flash on the Mini B top board when turned on
• Use superglue to fix the switch to the chassis

• Use the 2mm bolt to secure the Mini B to the chassis
• Route the wires as shown in the photo

• CAREFULLY bend the motor wires down - they are fragile and should not be repeatedly moved
• Push the motor into the chassis so that the geared part fits snugly in the box under the chassis

• Connect the 2 yellow and orange wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the edge of the Mini B with the yellow wire plugged onto the outer pin further from the white socket so that loco goes in the correct direction
• Route the wires so that they are clear of the motor pulley

• Put both O rings over the axle with the double pulley
• Line this pulley up with the motor pulley
• Carefully bend a frame side out and wiggle one end of the axle in the box

• Bend the other frame side out and wiggle the other end of the axle into the box

• Put the larger O ring over the other axle
• Fit this axle in the same way
• Fit the O rings over the motor and axle pulleys

• Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 black wires towards the inside of the chassis
• The battery wires should have a little play to be able to move up and down the chassis
• You may need to untwist the lipo red and black wires if you purchased a lipo with them twisted
• Test fit the lipo as shown to get a feel for how to do this before adding the brake bars
• The white connector should tuck inside the frame
• Switch the power to on and check the Mini B, motor and wheels are all working correctly
• Switch the power to off

• Locate the brake bars and brakes
• Note the difference between left and right brakes - they are a mirror image - the left are on the left in the photo
• 3 left and 3 right brakes are included so you have a spare of each
• The front brake bar has the wider part sticking in - top in the photo

• Glue the brakes to the bars using the photo as a guide
• The small notch on the back of the brake should tuck into the corner of the frame
• Take your time to ensure the brakes are correctly fixed squarely to the bars - if they are not they may foul the wheels
• Ensure the glue has set and the brakes are thoroughly attached before going onto the next step

• Push the front brake bar into the supports in the chassis
• The battery wires should tuck under the inner lower bar
• Check the wheels are clear of the brakes
• Push the rear brake bar through the O ring

• Push the rear brake bar into the supports in the chassis
• The battery wires should tuck under the inner lower bar
• Check the wheels are clear of the brakes
• You should not need to glue it so that it can be removed easily if you ever need to replace the O ring

• Locate the fuel tank, fuel caps and 0.8mm brass rods
• The fuel caps are VERY small - 4 are included so you have 2 spares in case you lose any

• File the ends of the brass rods
• Push the rods into the fuel caps - the easiest way is to put the fuel cap upside down on a flat surface, hold the rod close to the cap end in a small pair of pliers and then wiggle/push it in
• Push the rods through the holes in the fuel tank
• Note there is a small printing line between the holes on the tank - make sure this will on the bottom and hence invisible

• Glue the fuel caps to the tank
• There is a small concave dip on the bottom of the cap that should fit perfectly on the tank - rotate it slightly until you achieve this
• Ensure the glue has set and the fuel caps are thoroughly attached

• Locate the brake handle and 1.5mm brass rod
• One end of the rod may be flat - if not file both it and the other cut end smooth
• Put the brake handle on a flat surface and insert the cut end
• Tap this in with a hammer, then tap it all the way through so that the flat end is flush with the handle as shown

• Glue the cab floor to the cab
• Use a clamp to ensure the floor is glued all the way round

• Carefully push the brass rods from the fuel tank through the cab floor, with the solid end of the tank on the outside

• Lay the tank in the supports on the side and check the length of the brass rods - if they protrude below the floor, then cut them slightly so that they are flush with the underside of the floor
• Glue the fuel tank to the cab side and back

• Glue the seat to the support with the 5 bars on the top side

• Clip the engine cover over the motor on the floor - do NOT glue it

• Position the cab floor using the switch and engine cover as a guide and make sure that the switch will fully click on and off, lengthening the hole in the floor slightly if necessary - attach the lipo battery and look for a blue flash on the Mini B top board when turned on
• Glue the cab to the floor using the switch and engine cover as a guide

• Insert the brake handle and rod - it should rotate freely
• Put a couple of SMALL spots of glue on the engine cover to attach it lightly to the floor so that you can easily remove it if you need to access the motor for service

• The coupling chain can either be opened and fitted to the eye of the hook or just left hanging over it

• Locate the box frame and sides
• The sides have a smooth matt side which should be on the outside of the box

• Glue the 2 long sides, using clamps to secure them

• Glue the 2 short sides, using clamps and a rubber band to secure them

• Position the centre of the box directly over the front axle
• If you want the box permanently attached glue it in place
• Otherwise use small pieces of Blu Tack or similar for a temporary fix

• Locate the tipper and trunnions

• Glue the trunnions over the locating dimples - the flat side is on the bottom
• Use clamps to make sure the trunnions are square to the sides and securely attached

• Push the tipper supports through the holes in the floor with the small dimples facing out
• You may find a small flat bladed screwdriver laid onto the horizontal bottom of the supports is useful for pushing these in
• If you want the tipper supports to be permanently attached glue them in place
• Otherwise the supports can be removed with gentle wiggling

• Lay the tipper on the supports
• The 16mm type C tipper is 100% compatible with the Peter Binnie type B tipper, so you can use either on the Planet and the Binnie tipper chassis

• Fit the battery if it is not already in place
• You should be able to pull the wires backwards and forwards a little to make it easier to insert and remove the battery

• Unless you have very small fingers, the switch can be a little tricky to turn on and off in the tight space of the cab - use the end of a pencil to do this
• Power it up and enjoy
• Check everything works as described above
• The Planet is capable of pulling one of two lightly loaded wagons
• Driver Ben fits and is available in both 16mm and 7/8ths inch scale from the Clavey Models eBay store
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the battery does not fully drain