1 inch scale Motor Rail 12hp locomotive introduction and instructions
The Motor Rail 12hp is a small locomotive based on works number 26014 which initially worked at Richardson's Moss Litter Co. Ltd Solway Moss Works near Gretna.
The 1 inch scale model has a 4 wheel drive motor/gearbox completely hidden in the chassis controlled by a Loco Remote Mini B. It is powered by 4 x AA NiMH rechargeable batteries.
The kit contains everything you need including a Loco Remote Mini B to build a fully remote controlled loco. Just add batteries and a custom driver from the Clavey Models eBay store to get up and running with your smartphone.
Parts are 3D printed in PLA ST (super tough). This means that while it is fine to run it anywhere, do not leave it standing outside in hot sun for any length of time, especially if it is unpainted. Above around 50 degrees C (120 degrees F) PLA can start to soften and so it may deform. Remember this is the temperature of the PLA which may be higher than the air temperature in the sun. PLA ST is more resilient than standard PLA.
The kit has been designed to have some of the parts friction fit together without the need for glue. Polystyrene cement (used for Airfix kits) works well on this PLA. We suggest Revell Contacta Liquid Glue with Professional Needle Applicator. Apply a fine line using the needle applicator and then hold the pieces together until set in a few minutes. Other glues including epoxy can be used but note that cyanoacrylate (super glue) may well leave a white bloom on the surface of the PLA that is hard to remove. This may be okay if you are painting it afterwards but otherwise best avoid it. We suggest Deluxe Materials Glue 'n' Glaze for the light lens.
www.locoremote.co.uk
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Parts
3D printed parts
- Black: chassis, 2 buffers, 4 wheels, 4 axle boxes with bearings, motor cover, motor pulley on motor shaft, 2 axle pulleys on axles, rear bar, seat, throttle, brake lever, light surround (version with light only)
- Grey: body, bonnet, bonnet cover, front bonnet ring, seat base, floor box, wheel jig
Electrical and other parts
- Loco Remote Mini B
- Combined motor and gearbox
- Switch / power assembly
- LED with cable (optional)
- 4 x AA battery box
- 2 O rings (30mm OD, 26mm ID, 2mm)
- 2 axles 68mm long
- 4 3mm x 7mm x 3mm double shielded bearings (in axle boxes)
- 2 3mm nuts and bolts
- 12mm clear round lens (optional)
- 120g tyre weights
- Rivet coupling pin
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Suggested tools and glues
- Ruler
- Needle files
- Hammer
- Drill bits with mini finger drill
- Sharp knife
- Tweezers
- Side cutters
- Small snipe nose pliers
- Wet and dry paper
- Rubber bands
- Polystyrene cement (used for Airfix kits)
- Glue 'n' Glaze for fixing light lens (optional for the 7/8ths inch scale model)
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Assembling the loco
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Wheels and axles - 1
- Locate the wheels, axles, axle boxes and O rings
- Drive pulleys have already been prealigned on the axles - note they are correctly in slightly different places on the axles
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Wheels and axles - 2
- The jig is to help set the gauge at 32mm or 45mm
- Put the wheel on the jig as shown
- Use a small hammer to tap the axle into the wheel
- Repeat for all 4 wheels
- Check the back wheel back to back distance with a ruler - it should be 28mm for 32mm gauge or 40mm for 45mm gauge
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Chassis - 1
- Gently push the motor into the hole in the chassis - do this just once so as not to strain the connection to the wire
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Chassis - 2
- Push the motor holder right through the hole on the underside of the chassis to secure the motor - it is a tight fit and you will need to wiggle it
- Put an O ring onto each axle
- Put the axles into the bearings in the axle boxes with the pulleys on the side away from the motor block as shown - it does not matter which axle is which
- Push the axle boxes into the chassis firmly - these are a deliberately tight fit and should not need gluing so they can be removed for maintenance later if needed
- Check the axles rotate freely
- Carefully stretch the O ring on the axle with the pulley closer to the middle onto the motor pulley nearer to the motor - you may find a pair of tweezers helpful but be careful not to damage the O ring
- Stretch the O ring over the pulley on the motor
- Repeat the process for the other O ring and axle
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Buffers
- Glue the buffers to the chassis - note the orientation with the larger part above the chassis floor
- Make sure the buffers are square - you can check by putting the body between them
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Bonnet
- Glue the bonnet ring around the holes on the front of the bonnet
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Light - 1
- Locate the LED, light surround and 12mm clear round lens
- Push the LED into the surround - its a 5mm LED so use a 5mm drill bit in your fingers if necessary - remove the LED
- Peel the protective film from both sides of the lens
- Fit the lens to the light holder - you can use Glue 'n' Glaze but it is a tight fit and should not need this
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Light - 2
- Feed the wires through the hole in the bonnet and push the light surround in place
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Body and switch
- Place the body on the chassis feeding the motor wires through the floor
- Push the bolts through the floor and into the body
- Note the orientation of the switch and charge socket holder - the charge socket should be against the same side as the Mini B
- Gently bend the wires on the bottom of the switch and charge socket inwards
- Push the nuts fully into the holes on the top of the holder
- Screw the bolts up through the floor into the nuts
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Connecting the Mini B
- Do not connect the battery yet
- Push the on/off switch towards the charge socket so that it is off
- Connect the white power plug into the Mini B white socket - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
- Connect the 2 yellow and orange wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the edge of the blue board with the orange wire plugged onto the outer pin further from the white socket so that loco goes in the correct direction - if you get this wrong you can always swap the wires round later
- Connect the (optional) black LED wire to the pin marked F LED - on the edge of the green board
- Connect the (optional) white LED wire to the pin marked F LED + of the green board adjacent to the black wire
- The onboard resistor at the other end green board has been set to 100 ohms - you can change it to 50 ohms if you want a brighter light but NOT to 0 ohms as that will blow the LED
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Batteries
- Push the Mini B into the slot inside the body
- Put 4 AA NiMH batteries in the holder and connect this
- The charge socket is a standard 2.1mm DC power socket with positive centre pin
- The batteries can be charged directly using a smart charger suitable for NiMH battery packs - contact Strikalite if you do not already have one and ask for a 2.1mm DC power plug with positive centre pin
- If you don't have and don't want a smart charger then just remove the batteries from the battery holder and charge them individually in an AA charger
IMPORTANT! Only use 4 x AA NiMH rechargeable batteries. Do not use Alkaline as their voltage may be too high and definitely do NOT connect a 9V PP3 battery even though it has the same clips as this will destroy the Mini B.
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Electronics check
IMPORTANT! Please download and read the setup guides from the links below before proceeding further, especially if you have not used a Loco Remote before.
- Turn the switch on - push it away from the charge socket
- The blue LED on the Mini B board and the (optional) clear LED should do a brief flash
- Connect your smartphone to the Mini B as described in the Mini B setup guide
- Run the controller from your screen
- If forward and reverse directions are the wrong way round swap the yellow and orange motor wires
- The LED should go on if you tap Lights and the direction is Forward - note it is directional and will go off in Reverse
- You can change the name on the screen (for example to Motor Rail) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
- The Mini B has already had it's 'Shutdown on low battery' preset to off since you are not using a lipo
- Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off
- Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain
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Weights
- Cut the 2 strips of weights into individual pieces
- DO NOT remove the blue backing from them
- Push the 10g weights into the larger space and 5 g weights into the smaller space in the seat support
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Seat and floor box
- Glue the seat base onto the seat support
- Glue the floor box to the back of the body and floor - one only one side is flat and this should go against the body
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Bonnet cover
- Glue the small oval cover to the side of the body as shown
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Throttle
- Glue the throttle to the back of the body, noting the orientation
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Seat
- Glue the seat on the seat holder with the seat front aligned with the edge of the holder
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Brake lever
- Glue the brake lever against the back buffer aligned with the whole in the floor
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Rear bar
- Glue the rear bar to the buffer - note the orientation so that the flat part is attached to the buffer
- Cut the rivet coupling pin to length for the buffer hole
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Final comments
- Drivers Ron and Violet have been specially designed to fit and are available in 1 inch scale from the Clavey Models eBay store
- Power it up and enjoy
- Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain
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