Huddy introduction and instructions

Huddy 16mm scale parts

• Black: chassis, 4 wheels, 4 axle boxes, brake handle, motor holder, motor pulley, 2 axle pulleys on axles, seat, 2 grills, roof (for version C only)
• Grey/Colour: Body, bonnet, bonnet plug, tool box cover, gauges

• Loco Remote Mini B
• Combined motor and gearbox
• On/off switch
• White power connector and cable for Mini B
• White flat connector and cable for lipo battery
• 2 wire motor cable with Dupont connector at one end
• 2 O rings
• Clear heat shrink tubing
• 2 axles (50mm long for 32mm gauge, 65mm long for 45mm gauge)
• 2 coupling hooks
• Strip of tyre weights

Wiring

• Locate the on/off switch, power cables and heat shrink tubing
• Cut the wires attached to the white Mini B power connector to 4cm and strip the ends
• Cut the wires attached to the white flat lipo connector to 5cm and strip the ends
• Cut 4 pieces of heat shrink tubing to approx 10mm
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on the red and black wires together attached to the white Mini B power connector
• Slip another piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire attached to the white Mini B power connector
• Solder this red wire onto the middle switch tab
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire only attached to the white flat lipo connector
• Solder this red wire onto one outer switch tab
• Push each heat shrink tubing on both the red wires so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• Slip another piece of heat shrink tubing on the black wire only attached to the white flat lipo connector
• Solder the two black wires together
• Push the heat shrink tubing on the black wire so it fully cover the soldered join and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place
• Push the heat shrink tubing on the red and black wire along towards the black join gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place - this helps keep the wires together in the bonnet
• IMPORTANT - make absolutely sure the soldered tabs and black wire join are fully covered by the tubing and there is no possibility of any tabs or exposed wires touching and causing a short
• Make sure the completed switch wiring is the same as the photo

• Slide the double motor pulley onto the motor shaft noting the flat part - it is a deliberately tight fit so you may need to open it slightly with a needle file
• Separate and cut the yellow and orange wires to 8cm and strip the ends a SMALL AMOUNT
• Slip an 8mm piece of heat shrink tubing on both wires
• Orient the motor as shown - locate the top which has a half width piece of brass support in the gearbox
• Solder the yellow wire to the tab on the same side as the half width piece of brass (top in the photo) - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
• Solder the orange wire to the other tab - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
• Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• These connections can be fragile so don't bend them until you are ready to put the motor in the chassis later
• If you accidentally attach the yellow and orange wires the wrong way round don't worry - it just means you will need to connect them to the motor output pins of the Mini B the other way round so that the loco runs forwards correctly

Connecting and checking the electronics

• Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 red wires
• Space in the bonnet is tight so you may wish to gently pull off and discard the black plastic piece on the 2 motor pins on the Mini B that protrudes slightly from the board so that the motor connectors will push fully on and save you a couple of mm - use a small pair of pliers to wiggle this off
• Connect the 2 wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the edge of board with the yellow wire plugged onto the outer pin further from the white socket so that Huddy goes in the correct direction - if you get this wrong you can always swap the wires round later
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
• Connect the lipo battery - do this carefully as the pins are small so do not try to force it

• Check everything works by turning the switch on
• The blue LED on the Mini B board should do a brief flash
• Connect your smartphone to the Mini B as described in the Mini B setup guide
• Run the controller from your screen
• When going Forward, the motor shaft should be rotating clockwise as you look directly at it - if it is rotating anti-clockwise reverse the yellow and orange motor wires
• You can change the name on the screen (for example to Huddy) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the components
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain

Assembling Huddy

• Locate the wheels and axles
• Drive pulleys have already been prealigned on the axles - note they are correctly in slightly different places on the axles

• Push the axles onto the wheels, being careful not to move the pulleys
• If you do need to move the pulleys for any reason then the easiest way is to push down on them with your fingers with the end of the axle on a hard surface

• Back to back wheel spacing should be 28mm for 32mm gauge and 40.5mm for 45mm gauge

• Locate the chassis, 4 axle boxes, 2 axles with wheels, 2 O rings, motor, motor holder and 4 smaller 5g weights
• Check the axles rotate freely in the axle boxes

• Push 2 axle boxes into the holes on the side of the chassis with the motor block - these are a deliberately tight fit and should not need gluing so they can be removed for maintenance later if needed
• Put an O ring onto each axle - don't forget!
• Put the axles into the already fitted axle boxes with the pulleys on the side away from the motor block as shown - it does not matter which axle is which
• Fit the axles into the remaining 2 axle boxes and push fit these into the chassis
• Check the axles rotate freely

• Carefully push the motor into the hole on the top of the chassis with the orange and yellow wires oriented as shown - you may need to wiggle it a little and move the pulley slightly out to get the motor in place
• It is a secure fit so try to avoid taking the motor in and out of the hole as this may weaken the joints to the wires

• It should look like this with the pulley just not touching the chassis

• Carefully stretch the O ring on the axle with the pulley closer to the middle onto the motor pulley nearer to the motor - you may find a pair of tweezers helpful but be careful not to damage the O ring
• Stretch the O ring over the pulley on the axle

• Repeat the process for the other O ring and axle

• Locate the bonnet, plug, grills and 2 larger 10g weights

• Choose the grill you prefer - note one side is smooth which should be on the outside
• Put the bonnet front on a flat surface and carefully push the grill in place from the inside - it is a tight fit so ease it in gently with your finger

• Slide 2 larger 10g weights into the bonnet top - do NOT remove the blue backing - you won't be able to slide them in if you do!
• For the round bonnet, the weights slide in with the wider side facing the front/back
• For the angled bonnet, the weights slide in with the narrower side facing the front back
• Use a small screwdriver to push the weights all the way in

• Push the bonnet plug in to keep the weights in place - it is a deliberately tight fit
• Use a small screwdriver to push the plug all the way in

• Slide 2 larger 10g weights into the toolbox - do NOT remove the blue backing - you won't be able to slide them in if you do!
• Clip the toolbox lid in place

• Glue the back frame of the brake handle to the main part so that the lever is in the middle
• Use a hold punch to make 2 small paper circles
• Glue these into the gauges (Bostik all purpose glue works well) and draw on markings as you wish

• Push fit the seat into the support
• Glue the gauges onto the inside cab front
• Glue the brake lever onto the inside cab back and floor - you might want to align this with your chosen driver

• If you have the version with a roof, glue this in place using the guides

• Push the on/off switch through the floor from the outside
• Make sure the outer red wire is at the front and not the back
• Glue the switch in place to the underside of the floor with epoxy and leave it to dry - make sure you don't get glue in the switch

• Fit the 4 smaller 5g weights in the chassis - you can remove the blue backing to stick them but do not have to
• Fit the black motor holder on top of the motor
• Feed the motor wires through the hole into the body - the holes should align
• You can glue the chassis to the body, but if you do you won't be able to access the motor should that ever be necessary so it is not really recommended

• This is probably the trickiest part so take your time!
• Screw one of the coupling hooks through the floor of the body into the front of the chassis using the holes provided
• A pair of fine nose pliers or similar can help in the tight space
• Repeat for the other coupling hook into the back of the chassis
• Tighten the screw hooks enough to secure the body to the chassis but not so tightly that they distort the plastic
• The curve should be on the outside so that a 3 link chain can be used

• Connect the yellow and orange motor wires to the 2 pins on the Mini B, with the yellow on the outer edge
• Push the Mini B all the way in to the locating socket at the back of the bonnet in the orientation shown - you may need to gently wiggle it to get it all the way in
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side

• Make sure the on/off switch is off with the black handle towards the back
• Connect the lipo battery and put it in it's slot as shown
• Experiment for the best fit, but it is probably with the battery wire coming out on top and the connector tucked above the motor wire entry - make sure that nothing blocks the bonnet

• The bonnet clips on and off - it should be a reasonably secure fit

• Huddy is capable of pulling a few lightly loaded wagons
• Power it up by pushing the handle of the on/off switch to the front and enjoy
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain