Hythe Pier Brush 16307 electric locomotive "Gerald Yorke"
introduction and instructions

16mm scale parts

• Black: chassis, frame front, frame rear, 2 derailing bars, rear box support, 4 wheels, 2 axle box sides, cab floor, brake handle, brake support, motor cover, motor pulley, 2 axle pulleys on axles
• White: cab interior shell, cab interior window shell, motor, chain guard, speed selector
• Green: cab exterior shell, 2 cab sides, 2 window frames, lifebelt hook, rear box with lid, front box
• Brown: Seat, wooden shelf, wooden shelf sides
• Red: 2 lifebelt halves

• Loco Remote Mini B
• Combined motor and gearbox
• On/off switch
• White power connector and cable for Mini B
• White flat connector and cable for lipo battery
• 2 wire motor cable with Dupont connectors
• 2 O rings
• Clear heat shrink tubing
• 2 axles 50mm long
• 1.5mm diameter brass rod
• 20g tyre weights
• 2 clear windows

• Ruler
• Needle files
• Hammer
• Drill bits (1.5mm very useful) with mini finger drill
• Sharp knife
• Tweezers
• Metal cutters (for brass rod)
• Small snipe nose pliers
• Wet and dry paper
• Rubber bands
• Polystyrene cement (used for Airfix kits)
• Glue 'n' Glaze for fixing clear windows
• Soldering iron, solder and "helping hands" (not shown) if you do not have the prewired kit

Wiring

• Locate the on/off switch, power cables and heat shrink tubing
• Cut one of the outer tabs off the switch if this is not already done
• Cut the red wire attached to the white Mini B power connector to 5.5cm and strip the end
• Cut the black wire attached to the white Mini B power connector to 3.5cm and strip the end
• Cut the wires attached to the white flat lipo connector to 5.5cm and strip the ends
• Cut 3 pieces of heat shrink tubing to approx 10mm
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire attached to the white Mini B power connector
• Solder this red wire onto the middle switch tab
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire only attached to the white flat lipo connector
• Solder this red wire onto one outer switch tab
• Push each heat shrink tubing on both the red wires so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• Slip another piece of heat shrink tubing on the black wire only attached to the white flat lipo connector
• Solder the two black wires together
• Push the heat shrink tubing on the black wire so it fully cover the soldered join and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place
• IMPORTANT - make absolutely sure the soldered tabs and black wire join are fully covered by the tubing and there is no possibility of any tabs or exposed wires touching and causing a short
• Make sure the completed switch wiring is the same as the photo

• Slide the double motor pulley onto the motor shaft noting the flat part - it is a deliberately tight fit so you may need to open it slightly with a needle file
• Cut the blue and green wires to 16cm and strip the ends a SMALL AMOUNT
• Slip an 8mm piece of heat shrink tubing on both wires
• Orient the motor as shown - locate the top which has a half width piece of brass support in the gearbox
• Solder the blue wire to the tab on the same side as the half width piece of brass (top in the photo) - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
• Solder the green wire to the other tab - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
• Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• These connections can be fragile so don't bend them until you are ready to put the motor in the chassis later
• If you accidentally attach the blue and green wires the wrong way round don't worry - it just means you will need to connect them to the motor output pins of the Mini B the other way round so that the loco runs forwards correctly

Connecting and checking the electronics

• Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 red wires
• Space in the rear box is tight so you may wish to gently pull off and discard the black plastic piece on the 2 motor pins on the Mini B that protrudes slightly from the board so that the motor connectors will push fully on and save you a couple of mm - use a small pair of pliers to wiggle this off
• Connect the 2 wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the edge of board with the blue wire plugged onto the outer pin further from the white socket so that loco goes in the correct direction - if you get this wrong you can always swap the wires round later
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
• Connect the lipo battery - do this carefully as the pins are small so do not try to force it

• Check everything works by turning the switch on
• The blue LED on the Mini B board should do a brief flash
• Connect your smartphone to the Mini B as described in the Mini B setup guide
• Run the controller from your screen
• When going Forward, the motor shaft should be rotating clockwise as you look directly at it - if it is rotating anti-clockwise reverse the blue and green motor wires
• You can change the name on the screen (for example to Gerald Yorke) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the components
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain

Assembling the loco

• Locate the wheels and axles
• Drive pulleys have already been prealigned on the axles - note they are correctly in slightly different places on the axles

• Use a small hammer to tap the axles into the wheels, then push the wheels along with your fingers being careful not to move the pulleys
• If you do need to move the pulleys for any reason then the easiest way is to push down on them with your fingers with the end of the axle on a hard surface

• Back to back wheel spacing should be 28mm for 32mm gauge

• Locate the chassis and 2 derailing bars

• Glue the derailing bars on the supports under the chassis
• Note that there are more "rivets" on the bottom of the bar and that the bottom of the bar and the motor mount in the chassis are aligned so it should all sit flat either way up when assembled

• Locate the chassis, 2 axle box sides, 2 axles with wheels, 2 O rings, motor and motor cover
• Check the axles rotate freely in the axle box holes

• Using the holes as a guide, gently push 1 axle box side into the holes on the side of the chassis with the motor block - these are a deliberately tight fit and should not need gluing so they can be removed for maintenance later if needed

• Put an O ring onto each axle - don't forget!
• Put the axles into the already fitted axle boxes with the pulleys on the side away from the motor block as shown - it does not matter which axle is which
• Fit the axles into the remaining axle boxes and push fit the side into the chassis
• Check the axles rotate freely

• Carefully push the motor into the hole on the top of the chassis with the blue and green wires oriented as shown - you may need to wiggle it a little and move the pulley slightly out to get the motor in place
• It is a secure fit so try to avoid taking the motor in and out of the hole as this may weaken the joints to the wires

• Feed the wires through the hole in the chassis above the motor

• Pull the wires all the way through above the axle

• Place the motor cover over the motor - it has cut outs for the wires

• Carefully stretch the O ring on the axle with the pulley closer to the middle onto the motor pulley nearer to the motor - you may find a pair of tweezers helpful but be careful not to damage the O ring
• Stretch the O ring over the pulley on the axle

• Repeat the process for the other O ring and axle

• Locate the front and rear buffer frames and rear box support
• Note the orientation with the larger front frame at the opposite end to the motor wires
• Note the orientation of the tabs pointing towards the middle on the rear box support

• Glue the front frame in place aligned with the end of the chassis
• Glue the rear frame in place aligned with the end of the chassis
• Glue the rear box support in place against the rear frame with the flat side up and the tabs towards the middle on the chassis

• Locate the 2 lifebelt halves, wooden shelf and sides

• Glue the 2 lifebelt halves together
• Glue the shelf side onto the smooth side of the shelf

• Locate the rear box, Mini B controller and wired switch

• Study the switch in the photo carefully
• Using a sharp knife, reduce the height of the plastic switch handle so that about 4mm remains - you don't have to do this but it looks better not sticking out so far
• Use a pair of wire cutters to cut the metal mounting tab through the mounting hole the OPPOSITE end to the red battery wire
• Gently bend this tab slightly up towards the handle side

• Push the handle so it clicks towards the cut tab and then carefully wiggle to insert this in the hole in the box
• Bending the tab in the previous steps helps this stay in place - it is a very tight fit so take your time
• Once in place check the switch operates freely

• Plug the white power connector into the Mini B - the red wire is on the outer edge

• Slide the Mini B between the holding tabs in the box in the orientation shown
• Tuck its connecting wires out of the way

• Feed the blue and green motor wires through the bottom of the box

• Glue the box in place on its support
• The taller side should be towards the middle
• The edge of the taller side should exactly line up with the edge of the support
• Leave the glue to completely set before the next stage

• Connect the blue and green wires to the Mini B motor output pins with the blue wire on the outside/top
• You may find it easier to pull the Mini B out of its holding tabs to to this and then replace it
• Tuck wires out of the way between the Mini B and the battery separator
• Make sure the switch is set to off - this should be down
• Connect the lipo battery

• Tuck the battery behind the separator as shown
• It's quite a tight fit so wiggle the wires carefully in place - take your time so as not to damage any connections

• Turn on the power switch - this should be up
• Connect your phone to the Mini B and bring up the control interface
• Check the wheels turn freely in the right direction - the box is at the rear!
• If the wheels turn in the opposite direction then just swap the blue and green wire connectors at the Mini B
• Turn off the power switch

• Fit the lid on the rear box - don't glue it as you need to access the battery for recharging!

• Locate the front box, shelf, weights and brass rod

• Remove the blue backing and stick the weights in the hole in the front box

• File one end of the rod so it is slightly rounded - you need to do this so it will fit easily in a hole
• Make sure you repeat this filing for subsequent steps each time you need a piece of rod

• Place the front box onto the frame with the holes for the hinge aligned
• Cut a 6mm length of brass rod
• Push the rounded end gently through the frame into the box lug as shown - gently does it with some wiggling - it is designed to be a firm fit
• As the rod goes in make sure you support the other side of the hinge firmly with your finger so as not to snap this

• Make sure the rod is fully through both sides of the black frame hinge
• File the end of the next piece of rod, cut this to 6mm and repeat the process for the other hinge
• The front box should open freely on the hinges when complete

• Locate the cab interior and exterior shells and sides

• Using the interior shell as a guide, glue the panelled side to the exterior shell, but DON'T glue the interior in place yet
• Make sure it is accurately aligned

• Using the interior shell as a guide, glue the open side to the exterior shell, but DON'T glue the interior in place yet
• Make sure it is accurately aligned

• Cover the inside of the exterior shell with glue making sure all corners are covered and slide the interior shell fully in place

• BEFORE the glue from the previous step has set, cover the remaining part of the inside of the exterior shell with glue and slide the window shell through the window in place
• You will need to wiggle it through the window opening and against the interior shell
• Make sure it is accurately aligned as shown with space in front of it for the clear window pane

• Locate the motor, chain guard, speed selector, seat, brake handle and brake support

• Use pliers to bend a small handle for the speed selector from the brass rod and cut this off
• Cut off a 7mm length of brass rod for the brake handle

• Fit both as shown

• Cut off a 40mm length of brass rod and file both ends
• Fit the brake support and brake handle as shown
• Move the brake support so that it just rests on the top of the bar in the cab with the other end of the rod on the floor

• Push the seat into the top of the motor
• Push the chain guard into the motor but DON'T glue it
• Rest the cab floor with the lip facing down onto something with a lip
• Check the bottom of the brake rod fits easily in the hole

• Check the motor and chain guard fit easily in the holes
• You may need to file the bases a tiny amount but do make sure they will go in the holes

• Glue the cab floor in the cab with the lip facing down - make sure it is pushed all the way to the back and the wheel cut outs are fully aligned

• Glue the brake support to the cab side with the bottom of the rod in the hole in the floor
• Leave the glue to set

• Smear glue on the white exposed part of the floor and glue the motor and chain guard in place

• Glue the speed selector box to the front interior wall as shown

• Locate the 2 clear windows with protective film on them
• Glue 'n' Glaze is recommended as it does not leave any smearing or fogging on the windows - polystyrene cement and superglue are very likely to cause fogging

• Run a thin line of Glue 'n' Glaze along the white window opening from the outside
• Remove the protective backing from one side of the longer clear window and position this in the frame and leave it to set
• Remove the protective backing from the other side of the clear window

• Repeat for the front with the squarer window making sure it is in the frame cut out

• Locate the window frames
• Note they have a smooth and rough side - in the photo you can see the rough side of the longer one and the smooth side of the squarer one

• Rub the rough side on wet and dry paper to make it smoother

• Glue the front window frame in place with the rougher side you rubbed with the wet and dry paper against the cab
• The thinnest edge should be at the bottom and the smooth side visible
• Use rubber bands while the glue sets to make sure the frame stays aligned

• Glue the rear window frame in place with the rougher side you rubbed with the wet and dry paper against the cab
• The widest side should be at the top and the smooth side visible
• Use rubber bands while the glue sets to make sure the frame stays aligned

• Glue the lifebelt hook on the back of the cab centrally just below the window frame

• Glue the lifebelt on the hook

• Check once again that the motor is working correctly since once the cab is glued in place it can't be accessed
• Glue the cab to the chassis with the front pushed directly against the back of the front frame as shown - the cab sides are directly above the centre of the axles

• Glue the front shelf to the top of the front box - note it has a front and back with the back edge completely flush
• Since the front box is not functional it is recommended to glue the bottom and back of this to the frame and cab, but if you want to leave it openable then you can

• The battery box lid just fits with the lifebelt in place so put it on and off gently

• Use the remaining brass rod to bend a towing hook which should be a secure fit in the hole in the buffer

• Driver Rod has been especially designed to fit and is available from the Clavey Models eBay store
• Fitting him in the cab requires a little modification
• Use a sharp knife to shorten the neck stub by around 5mm - if you don’t shorten the neck the low roof means you won’t have enough room

• Wiggle the headless body into the cab - it will go when you puzzle out the best way, legs first
• Use tweezers to fit the head onto the body

• "Gerald Yorke" is capable of pulling a few lightly loaded wagons
• Power it up by pushing the handle of the on/off switch up and enjoy
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain
• If you are ever near Hythe Pier then take yours along for a visit