Clayton CB1.75FC-7 folding cab battery electric locomotive
16mm scale introduction and instructions

Parts

• Chassis, battery box, 8 vents, vent guide, battery box cover, battery box support, front buffer beam, front buffer, rear buffer, rear buffer guide, cab back, cab floor, seat, 4 wheels, brake lever, controller box, controller top with knobs, gauge, front and rear lights, switch cover, 2 axle gears, 2 motor gears, gear alignment guide

• Loco Remote Mini B
• Combined motor and gearbox
• White power connector and wires for Mini B
• Lipo battery connector and wires
• 2 wire (yellow/orange) motor cable with Dupont connectors
• O ring (32mm OD, 29mm ID, 1.5mm)
• Heat shrink tubing
• On/off slide switch
• Rivet coupling pin
• 2 axles 42mm long
• 48mm long 1.5mm brass rod
• Round head pin
• 2 Clayton waterslide decals

Wiring and electronics check

• Locate the on/off switch, power cables and thicker heat shrink tubing
• Cut the red and black wires attached to the white Mini B power connector to 7cm and strip the ends
• Cut the red and black wires attached to the white lipo battery connector to 4cm and strip the ends
• Cut 3 pieces of thicker heat shrink tubing to approx 12mm
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire attached to the white Mini B power connector
• Solder this red wire onto the middle switch tab
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire only attached to the lipo battery connector
• Solder this red wire onto one outer switch tab
• Push each heat shrink tubing on both the red wires so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• Slip another piece of heat shrink tubing on the black wire only attached to the lipo battery connector
• Solder the two black wires together
• Push the heat shrink tubing on the black wire so it fully covers the soldered join and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place
• IMPORTANT - make absolutely sure the soldered tabs and black wire join are fully covered by the tubing and there is no possibility of any tabs or exposed wires touching and causing a short
• Make sure the completed switch wiring is the same as the photo
• Use a sharp knife to cut the black switch handle to 4mm
• Cut off the unused switch tab
• Cut the metal switch surround on the same side as the removed tab at the end of the screw hole as shown

• Locate the motor, yellow and orange wires and thinner heat shrink tubing
• Cut the yellow and orange wires to 7cm and strip the ends a SMALL AMOUNT
• Cut 2 pieces of thinner heat shrink tubing to approx 8mm
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on both wires
• Orient the motor as shown - locate the top which has a HALF width piece of brass support in the gearbox
• Solder the yellow wire to the tab on the same side as the half width piece of brass (bottom in the photo) - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
• Solder the orange wire to the other tab - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
• Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• These connections can be fragile so don't bend them until you are ready to put the motor in the chassis later
• If you accidentally attach the yellow and orange wires the wrong way round don't worry - it just means you will need to connect them to the motor output pins of the Mini B the other way round so that the loco runs forwards correctly
• IMPORTANT - make absolutely sure the soldered tabs are fully covered by the tubing and there is no possibility of any tabs or exposed wires touching and causing a short
• Make sure the completed motor wiring is the same as the photo

• Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 red wires
• Connect the 2 yellow and orange wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the edge of the board with the yellow wire plugged onto the outer pin further from the white socket so that loco goes in the correct direction - if you get this wrong you can always swap the wires round later
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
• Connect the lipo battery
• Check everything works by turning the switch on
• The blue LED on the Mini B board should do a brief flash
• Connect your smartphone to the Mini B as described in the Mini B setup guide
• Run the controller from your screen
• When going Forward, the motor shaft should be rotating clockwise as you look directly at it - if it is rotating anti-clockwise reverse the yellow and orange motor wires
• You can change the name on the screen (for example to Clayton) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the components
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the battery does not fully drain

Assembling the loco

• Locate the battery box, 4 vents (8 are provided so you have 4 spare), vent guide and gauge

• Align the guide on one side and hold it in place with Blu Tack or similar
• Put 2 small dots of glue in the holes and fit vents into these - the gap in the vent should be on the inside at the bottom
• Make sure the glue does not spread under the guide and stick this to the box side!
• Leave the glue to dry thoroughly then repeat for the vents on the other side

• Once the vents are firmly stuck on, glue the gauge oriented as shown on the back of the box near the switch hole

• Locate the cab back, cab floor, seat, rear buffer and rear buffer guide

• Push the cab seat firmly into the bar as shown and glue it to the back corner as shown
• You may need to open up the hole on the seat that fits onto the bar slightly if it is too tight

• Glue the cab floor to the cab back
• Use some small pieces of Blu Tack to keep the parts pushed together while they dry
• Make sure you don't stick it to the worktop!

• The front and rear buffers may look similar but they are different - the thinner one is the rear
• Align the rear buffer guide oriented as shown on the cab back and hold it in place with Blu Tack or similar
• Put some glue in middle of the hole and fit rear buffer into this - the printed bolts go at the bottom
• Make sure the glue does not spread under the guide and stick this to the cab back!

• Push the smaller plug from underneath through the hole on the controller top
• Push and glue the controller knob onto this - it should be free to rotate in the hole
• Cut the round head pin to the desired length (around 7mm) and glue this in the small hole in the knob
• Glue the controller top onto the controller box

• Locate the chassis, 4 wheels, front buffer beam, front buffer, axle gear (2 are provided so you have a spare), gear alignment guide, 2 axles and O ring
• The front and rear buffers may look similar but they are different - the thicker one is the front

• Glue the front buffer beam to the chassis - the sticking out parts should be on the inside
• Glue the front buffer to the chassis through the hole on the buffer beam - the printed bolts go at the bottom

• Use a small hammer to tap each into a wheel
• The axle should protrude 1mm on the outside of the wheel

• Push an axle through the hole at the back of the chassis from the side shown
• Using your fingers, push this through the axle gear with the alignment guide behind it against the inside of the chassis

• It should look like this with the alignment guide between the gear and the chassis

• Slip the O ring on another wheel
• Use a small hammer to tap the axle (from the other end) onto the wheel
• The axle should protrude approx 1mm on the outside of the wheel
• Remove the gear alignment guide
• Make sure the axle rotates completely freely with just a very small gap (use a sheet of paper) between the wheels and chassis
• The gauge will be set correctly for 32mm

• Repeat for the front axle and wheels - obviously without an axle gear!
• Put the O ring on the pulleys and make sure the axles can rotate freely

• Glue the battery box support to the chassis
• The front should be a fraction of a mm behind the front of the buffer beam and the hole aligned with the hole in the chassis

• Push the motor gear onto the keyed shaft (2 are provided so you have a spare)

• Push the motor right in and flat against the floor of the chassis - it should click into place
• Make sure the yellow and orange wires are aligned as shown or it will run the wrong way!
• If you ever need to remove the motor use a small screwdriver to gentle lever the back up so it unclips

• Use your finger to check the gears are meshing but not too tightly
• There should be a very small amount of play between them - move the axle gear very slightly with your fingers if necessary

• Glue the control box and brake lever in the positions and orientations shown

• Fit the on/off switch into the hole with the cut part at the bottom - when the handle is down the power is off

• Glue the switch cover in place

• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
• Slot the Mini B in place

• Feed the motor wires through the hole in the floor of the battery box - do not glue the box in place yet
• Connect the 2 yellow and orange wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the edge of the board with the yellow wire plugged onto the outer pin further from the white socket so that loco goes in the correct direction - if you get this wrong you can always swap the wires round later

• Plug in the 3.7V lipo, turn on the switch and check everything works as described in "Connecting the Mini B and battery" above

• Once you are happy with this, glue the battery box to the support
• Even when the box is fixed it is still possible to remove the motor if necessary
• A 600/650mAh 3.7V lipo will just fit if aligned as shown - a smaller 380mAh lipo will fit easily

• Feed the brass rod through the holes in the chassis
• Clip the cab in place on the rod

• Cut the coupling pin to the desired length

• Locate the battery box cover and front and rear lights
• Use a paper hole punch on some kitchen foil to make 2 circular lights
• Glue the foil circles onto the lights

• Glue the front and rear lights together
• Glue this assembly into the hole in the cover
• Make sure that the lights are perpendicular to the cover from the front and the side

• Clip the battery box cover in place - do not glue it so you can access the battery

• If you want to apply the decals, please read these instructions from Endon Valley Custom Decals
• Use a sharp knife to cut out each decal - if you cut the top corners off the decal will just fit between the vents
• Although the Endon Valley instructions recommend applying a gloss coat first, I found that the decals will adhere directly to the printed plastic sides of the battery box but should still be covered with a clear spray varnish
• Check everything works as described in "Connecting the Mini B and battery" above
• The Clayton is capable of pulling a few lightly loaded wagons
• Driver Robin fits and is available in 16mm scale from the Clavey Models eBay store
• Power it up and enjoy
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the battery does not fully drain