Bredbury Sewage Works locomotive
introduction and instructions

Parts

• Black or silver: frame top, frame bottom, 2 frame footboard supports, 2 frame cross pieces, 2 frame ends, 4 wheels, 4 axle box covers, motor pulley, 2 axle pulleys on axles
• Colour: Bonnet, bonnet top, 2 bonnet top mounts, starter handle surround, 5 brake parts, wheel spacer
• Brown: 2 footboards, box

• Loco Remote Mini B
• Combined motor and gearbox
• White power connector and cable for Mini B
• White flat connector and cable for lipo battery
• 2 wire (yellow/orange) motor cable with Dupont connectors
• On/off slide switch
• Heat shrink tubing
• 2 axles 42mm long
• 2 O rings (17mm OD, 13mm ID, 2mm)
• 20g tyre weights
• 2 No.4 self tapping screws
• 50mm length of 1.5mm brass rod
• 25mm length of 0.8mm brass rod

• Ruler
• Needle files
• Hammer
• Drill bits (1.5mm, 1.0mm and 0.8mm) with mini finger drill
• Tweezers
• Side cutters
• Small snipe nose pliers
• Small pozidrive screwdriver
• Selection of clamps
• Polystyrene cement (used for Airfix kits)
• Wet and dry paper (not shown)
• Soldering iron, solder and "helping hands" (not shown) if you do not have the prewired kit

Wiring

• Locate the on/off switch, power cables and thicker heat shrink tubing
• Cut one outer tab off the switch - the tab holes are small and you may wish to widen these with a 1mm drill bit in a finger drill to allow the wires to fit more easily
• Cut the red wires attached to the white Mini B power connector and to the white flat lipo connector to 40mm and strip the ends
• Cut the black wires attached to the white Mini B power connector and to the white flat lipo connector to 30mm and strip the ends
• Cut 2 pieces of thicker heat shrink tubing to approx 7mm and 1 piece to approx 12mm
• Slip a shorter piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire attached to the white Mini B power connector
• Solder this red wire onto the middle switch tab
• Slip a shorter piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire attached to the white flat lipo connector
• Solder this red wire onto one outer switch tab
• Push each heat shrink tubing on both the red wires so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• Slip the longer piece of heat shrink tubing on the black wire attached to the white flat lipo connector
• Solder the two black wires together
• Push the heat shrink tubing on the black wire so it fully covers the soldered join and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place
• IMPORTANT - make absolutely sure the soldered tabs and black wire join are fully covered by the tubing and there is no possibility of any tabs or exposed wires touching and causing a short
• Make sure the completed switch wiring is the same as the photo

• Locate the motor, yellow and orange wires and thinner clear heat shrink tubing
• Cut the yellow wire to 60mm
• Cut the orange wire to 50mm
• Cut 2 pieces of thinner heat shrink tubing to approx 8mm
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on each wire and strip the ends by 2-3mm
• Orient the motor as shown
• Solder the yellow wire to the tab closer to the spindle - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
• Solder the orange wire to the other tab - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
• Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• These connections can be fragile so don't bend them until you are ready to put the motor in the frame later
• If you accidentally attach the yellow and orange wires the wrong way round don't worry - it just means you will need to connect them to the motor output pins of the Mini B the other way round so that the loco runs forwards correctly
• IMPORTANT - make absolutely sure the soldered tabs are fully covered by the tubing and there is no possibility of any tabs or exposed wires touching and causing a short
• Make sure the completed motor wiring is the same as the photo

Connecting and checking the electronics

• Remove the Mini B from the loco bonnet it is supplied in
• Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 red wires
• Connect the 2 yellow and orange wires from the motor to the 2 pins under the board with the orange wire plugged onto the outer pin further from the white socket so that loco goes in the correct direction - if you get this wrong you can always swap the wires round later
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
• Connect the charged lipo battery - do this carefully as the pins are small so do not try to force it

• Check everything works by turning the switch on
• The blue LED on the top side of Mini B board should do a brief flash
• Connect your smartphone to the Mini B as described in the Mini B setup guide
• Run the controller from your screen
• When going Forward, the motor shaft should be rotating clockwise as you look directly at it - if it is rotating anti-clockwise reverse the yellow and orange motor wires
• You can change the name on the screen (for example to Bredbury) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the components
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the battery does not fully drain

Assembling the loco

• Locate the wheels, axles and wheel spacer
• Drive pulleys have already been prealigned on the axles - note they are correctly in slightly different places on the axles

• Use a small hammer to tap an axle through a wheel resting on the red wheel spacer
• Repeat for the other wheels
• Back to back wheel spacing should be 28mm for 32mm gauge which will be set automatically by the wheel spacer
• If you do need to move the pulleys for any reason then the easiest way is to push down on them with your fingers with the end of the axle on a hard surface

• Locate the frame top, frame bottom, 2 frame ends and 4 axle box covers
• Check the axles rotate freely in the open axle boxes

• Glue the frame top to the frame bottom making sure it is carefully aligned all the way round

• Use clamps to make sure the frame top and bottom are glued tightly together for strength

• Glue the 4 axle box covers in place making sure you do not get glue in the axle holes

• Glue the frame ends in place using 1.5mm drill bit to ensure they are aligned with the holes in the frame

• Locate the frame and axles with wheels

• Clip the axles in the axle boxes with the pulleys as shown by gently bending the frame sides outwards
• Check the axles rotate freely - if necessary rotate a 3mm or 3.2mm drill bit in any holes that are not free
• Remove the axles and put them aside

• Locate the frame and 2 frame footboard supports

• Glue the frame footboard supports to the top of the frame with the smooth flat side on top and the angled part to the frame
• IMPORTANT - make sure the supports are very accurately aligned with the frame in the middle otherwise either the motor or bonnet will not fit!

• To help with alignment push the bonnet onto the frame but do NOT glue it - it should be a tight friction fit

• Use clamps to make sure the frame and supports are glued tightly together for strength
• Remove the bonnet

• Locate the 2 brown footboards and 2 frame cross pieces

• Glue the cross pieces into the grooves in the footboards as shown - make sure they are centred with the side pieces pointing away from the grooves

• Push the bonnet onto the frame but do NOT glue it
• Glue the footboards to the supports and frame sides with the fraction of a mm gap to the bonnet - do NOT glue the footboards to the bonnet
• Remove the bonnet

• Locate the frame, axles, 2 O rings, motor and motor pulley
• Push the motor pulley onto the D keyed shaft leaving a gap of 2mm to the gearbox plate

• Slip an O ring onto each axle
• Clip the axles in the axle boxes with the pulleys as shown by gently bending the frame sides outwards
• Check the axles rotate freely

• Push the motor gearbox into the hole in the frame so that the pulley protrudes underneath - the motor should be sticking through the top of the frame
• The motor wire connections can be fragile so don't bend them yet
• Slip the O rings over the axle and motor pulleys - a small pair of tweezers may help

• Glue the starter handle surround to the right side of the bonnet (looking from the back) using the small dimple on the bonnet as a guide

• Locate the bonnet, on/off switch with wiring and the 2 self tapping screws
• Orient the switch as shown with the wired tabs at the top

• Fit the switch in the hole in the bonnet with the wired tabs at the top
• Secure the switch with the 2 self tapping screws

• Slip the Mini B partially into the bonnet
• Plug the Mini B power connector wired to the switch into the Mini B - it is keyed with the red wire on the outer edge of the board
• Push the Mini B all the way home into the slot in the bonnet - look at this carefully - it should be a secure fit in the middle slot

• Lift the Mini B out of its slot to create room for the motor wiring

• IMPORTANT - the motor wiring can be fragile so do this next step ONCE - i.e. do not bend and then unbend the wires
• Bend the motor wires so they point up and are flat against the motor
• Note the orientation of the bonnet - the starter handle surround is on the same side as the motor wires
• Carefully feed the motor wires up into the bonnet

• Push the bonnet fully onto the frame - it is a friction fit over this and the motor wires
• Carefully plug the motor wires into the Mini B with the orange wire near the outer edge
• Take your time to wiggle the wires around each other
• Push the Mini B all the way home into the slot in the bonnet making sure the lipo battery connector protrudes from the top and all other wires are in the bonnet

• Make sure the switch is off - down
• Connect the lipo battery

• Turn the switch on - up
• Repeat the Electronics Check section above to make sure everything is working and the loco moves in the expected direction

• Locate the 5 (small!) brake parts and the 0.8mm and 1.5mm brass rods

• Cut a 10mm piece of the 1.5mm brass rod and file the ends smooth
• Push this into the larger hole on the shorter brake linkage - you may find tapping the rod gently with a hammer or using pliers helpful
• Push the rod into the end of the frame brake mount
• Align this us with the small hole in the bonnet (do NOT push it in) so that the brake mount rests in the centre of the frame as shown but do NOT glue it yet
• Remove this once aligned

• File one end of the 0.8mm brass rod
• Carefully wiggle this into one end of the longer brake linkage and push it a little way through

• Wiggle the rod into the bottom hole on the brake handle - note the orientation with the longer brake linkage on top of the angled base of the handle

• Cut the rod so that it protrudes just a little as shown
• Wiggle the 0.8mm brass rod into the upper hole on the brake handle
• Cut this as shown so it protrudes 2-3mm

• Repeat the process to use a piece of the 0.8mm brass rod to join the shorter and longer brake linkages - make sure the orientation is as shown in the photo
• All the joins should be secure but just movable

• Carefully push the brake handle into the mount as shown - if it is too tight gently file the inside of the mount hole

• Gently bend the handle a little so the brass rod towards the top fits into the hole at the bottom of the mount

• Glue the brake mount to the side of the bonnet and frame mount to the frame as shown
• The top of the mount should align with the line across the bonnet with the brake handle vertical when pulled back
• The frame mount should be in the middle of the frame with the 1.5mm brass rod resting in the hole in the bonnet
• Once the glue has fully set you should be able to gently move the brake handle and linkages back and forth

• Cut the remaining 1.5mm brass rod in half to 18-20mm pieces
• Bend one end and insert into the frame end
• Repeat for the other end

• Push the 4 5g tyre weights into the box - don't remove the blue backing as it just makes them harder to fit

• Glue the box onto the front footboard just clear of the flywheel protrusion on the front of the bonnet

• Locate the bonnet top and 2 mounts

• Glue the mounts into the holes under the bonnet top

• Clip the top onto the bonnet - do NOT glue it so that you can get to the battery

• Bredbury is capable of pulling a few lightly loaded wagons
• The axles rotate directly in the axle boxes without bearings
• Add a very small drop of thin oil to each axle box for lubrication
• Keep the oil off the O rings
• A driver is necessary to balance the weight and one specially designed to fit will be available shortly from the Clavey Models eBay store
• Power it up and enjoy
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the battery does not fully drain