Suggested tools
- Ruler
- Needle files
- Hammer
- 1.5mm drill bit with mini finger drill
- Side cutters
- Small snipe nose pliers
- Small cross head screwdriver
- Mini clamp
- Blu tack
- Soldering iron, solder and "helping hands" (not shown) if you do not have the prewired kit
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Wiring and checking the electronics
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On/off switch - 1
- Locate the on/off switch, power cables and heat shrink tubing
- Cut one outer tab off the switch - the tab holes are small and you may wish to widen these with a 1mm drill bit in a finger drill to allow the wires to fit more easily
- Cut the red wires attached to the white flat lipo connector to 40mm and strip the ends
- Do not cut the wires attached to the white Mini B power connector
- Cut 2 pieces of thicker heat shrink tubing to approx 7mm and 1 piece to approx 12mm
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On/off switch - 2
- Slip a shorter piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire attached to the white Mini B power connector
- Solder this red wire onto the middle switch tab
- Slip a shorter piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire attached to the white flat lipo connector
- Solder this red wire onto one outer switch tab
- Push each heat shrink tubing on both the red wires so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
- Slip the longer piece of heat shrink tubing on the black wire attached to the white flat lipo connector
- Solder the two black wires together
- Push the heat shrink tubing on the black wire so it fully covers the soldered join and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place
- IMPORTANT - make absolutely sure the soldered tabs and black wire join are fully covered by the tubing and there is no possibility of any tabs or exposed wires touching and causing a short
- Make sure the completed switch wiring is the same as the photo
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Motor - 1
- Locate the motor, purple and grey wires and heat shrink tubing
- Do not cut the wires
- Cut 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing to approx 7mm
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Motor - 2
- Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on each wire and strip the ends by 2-3mm
- Orient the motor as shown
- Solder the purple wire to the tab closer to the spindle - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
- Solder the grey wire to the other tab - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
- Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
- These connections can be fragile so don't bend them until you are ready to put the motor in the frame later
- If you accidentally attach the purple and grey wires the wrong way round don't worry - it just means you will need to connect them to the motor output pins of the Mini B the other way round so that the loco runs forwards correctly
- IMPORTANT - make absolutely sure the soldered tabs are fully covered by the tubing and there is no possibility of any tabs or exposed wires touching and causing a short
- Make sure the completed motor wiring is the same as the photo
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LEDs - 1
- Locate the parts shown in the photo
- Cut the white and black wires once to 11cm and 8cm (not including the headers) - make sure you do this precisely or one of the pairs of wires will not be long enough
- Cut 4 pieces of thinner heat shrink tubing to approx 8mm
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LEDs - 2
- Cut the longer (positive) leg of one LED just below the wider part
- Do not cut the other leg yet so you do not mix up which is positive and which is negative
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LEDs - 3
- Strip the ends of one pair of wires and slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over both
- Solder the white wire to the cut leg
- Cut the other (negative) leg of the LED just below the wider part
- Solder the black wire to the cut leg
- Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered joins and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
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LEDs - 4
- Repeat for the other wires and LED
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Battery - 1
- The kit requires a 3.7V lipo battery with an XH2.54 connector that will fit in a space of 46mm x 25mm x 10mm
- The preferred battery is a 380mAh lipo shown, typically marked 702035 - search eBay or Amazon for "Hubsan X4 battery", "380mAh 3.7V lipo" or "702035 lipo" and you should find some (make sure they have the flat white XH2.54 connector)
- A larger 600 or 650mAh 3.7V lipo may also fit (though it will be tight in the model with lights) - search eBay or Amazon for "Hubsan X5C battery", "600mAh 3.7V lipo" or "650mAh 3.7V lipo"and you should find some (make sure they have the flat white XH2.54 connector and are smaller than 46mm x 25mm x 10mm)
- The batteries will often come with a mini USB charger, but if they don't search eBay or Amazon for "3.7v lipo USB charger XH2.54"
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Battery - 2
- Double check the battery and charger have XH2.54 connectors as shown - any of the other types will not connect
- Remove the battery from the loco to charge it with a USB mini charger
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IMPORTANT! Only use the recommended 3.7V 380mAh or 600/650mAh lipo battery.
Please download and read the setup guides from the links below before proceeding further, especially if you have not used a Loco Remote before.
Mini B and electronics check
- Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 red wires
- Plug the front LED (longer wires) into the F LED pins on the bottom of the Mini B (top in photo)
- Plug the rear LED (shorter wires) into the R LED pins on the bottom of the Mini B (bottom in photo)
- The order (from top top bottom in photo) is front black, front white, rear black, rear white
- Connect the 2 purple and grey wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the motor board with the purple wire plugged onto the outer pin further from the white socket so that loco goes in the correct direction - if you get this wrong you can always swap the wires round later
- Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
- Connect the charged lipo battery - do this carefully as the pins are small so do not try to force it
- Check everything works by turning the switch on
- The blue LED on the Mini B board and the front LED should do a brief flash
- Connect your smartphone to the Mini B as described in the Mini B setup guide
- Run the controller from your screen
- Tap the Lights button to turn the LEDs on and off - they go on in the direction of travel
- When going Forward, the motor shaft should be rotating anti clockwise when you look straight at it
- You can change the name on the screen (for example to BEV 323) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
- Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the components
- Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain
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Assembling the loco
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Wheels - 1
- Locate the wheels, axles and wheel spacer
- Drive pulleys have already been prealigned on the axles - note they are correctly in slightly different places on the axles
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Wheels - 2
- Use a small hammer to tap an axle through a wheel resting on the yellow wheel spacer, with the spacer face down on a solid surface
- Repeat for the other wheels
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Wheels - 3
- Back to back wheel spacing should be 28mm for 32mm gauge which will be set automatically by the wheel spacer
- If you do need to move the pulleys for any reason then the easiest way is to push down on them with your fingers with the end of the axle on a hard surface
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Wheels - 4
- Place an O ring over each axle
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Chassis - 1
- Locate the chassis, body, on/off switch wiring, 40g of weights cut as shown, nuts and bolts
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Chassis - 2
- Remove the blue backing from a 10g weight and the two 5g weights and stick them in the recesses in the chassis
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Chassis - 3
- Push the nuts into the holes underneath the chassis - the easiest way to do this is with the bolts still in place with a blob of Blu tack on the end of a screwdriver
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Chassis - 4
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Adding the body - 1
- Align the body over the chassis
- Position the on/off switch so that the outer red wire is in the same orientation - facing down in the photo
- Screw the bolts into the nuts, securing the on/off switch
- The easiest way to do this with a blob of Blu tack on the end of a screwdriver
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Adding the body - 2
- Remove the blue backing from two 10g weights and stick them in the recesses in the chassis on top of the other weights
- Feed the Mini B power cable over through as shown
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Between the wheels brakes - 1
- Locate the buffers and splashers shown
- The splasher with the round "motor" must go on the side shown
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Between the wheels brakes - 2
- Glue the splasher with the round "motor" to the chassis and body - there should be a 0.5mm gap from the underneath of the splasher and bottom of the battery box on each side
- Repeat for the splasher on the other side
- Push the axles in place to check alignment - they are a clip fit - and then remove them
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Outside the wheels brakes - 1
- Locate the buffers and splashers shown
- The splasher with the round "motor" must go on the side shown
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Outside the wheels brakes - 2
- Glue the splasher with the round "motor" to the chassis and body, pushed against the bottom of the battery boxes
- Repeat for the splasher on the other side
- Push the axles in place to check alignment - they are a clip fit - and then remove them
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Buffers
- Glue the buffers in place against the chassis and bottom of the battery boxes at both ends
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Fitting the motor - 1
- Push the motor pulley onto the motor shaft
- The shaft and pulley are keyed with a D shape
- The pulley is a tight fit - once it starts to go on turn the motor upside down and push down on it with the pulley on the edge of a flat surface keeping the wires clear
- The end of the pulley should align with the end of the shaft
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Fitting the motor - 2
- Align the motor as shown with the shaft at the bottom facing you
- Carefully bend the motor wires at 90 degrees towards the right as shown
- Slip the motor wires into the battery box with the holes in the floor
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Fitting the motor - 3
- Carefully push the motor all the way down into the recess in the chassis
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Lights - 1
- Locate the wired LEDs and light surrounds
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Lights - 2
- The longer wires are for the front LED - the end with the on/off switch
- Push the surround on the LED then feed the wires through the hole at the end and both battery boxes as shown
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Lights - 3
- Clip the surround into the body with the wires vertical so that you can bend these towards the side as shown
- Push the surround on the LED with the shorter wires and feed these through the hole at the other end
- Clip the surround into the body with the wires horizontal so that you can bend down these as shown
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Fitting the Mini B - 1
- Push the front LED black wire connector onto the outer pin on the green lights board
- Push the front LED white wire connector onto the next pin
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Fitting the Mini B - 2
- Push the motor purple wire connector onto the outer pin on the blue motor board, furthest from the white power connector
- Push the motor grey wire connector onto the next pin on the blue motor board, nearest to the white power connector
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Fitting the Mini B - 3
- Push the rear LED black wire connector onto the next pin on the green lights board
- Push the rear LED white wire connector onto the final pin on the green lights board
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Fitting the Mini B - 4
- The Mini B with lights is a very tight fit into the battery box so take your time with this to get it right - the standard Mini B without lights is a much easier fit!
- Position the Mini B diagonally and push it into the box
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Fitting the Mini B - 5
- You will need to wiggle all the wires, especially for the motor and front LED so that they go around the Mini B with none under it against the floor - study the position of the wires in the photo
- With patience you should be able to get the Mini B flat against the floor so that it does not interfere with the battery box top
- If it still pushes up a little, don't fret - see battery box tops later!
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Fitting the axles
- Push the axles into the chassis - they should clip fit in place
- Fit the O rings over the motor and axle pulleys
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Controller - 1
- File one end of the brass rod
- Bend it at 15mm
- Cut off the rod a further 6mm along and file the end
- Push the shorter end into the hole on the side of the controller
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Controller - 2
- Glue the controller as shown to the front battery box (the one with the on/off switch) around 2mm below the top and 6mm from the side
- Use a clamp to hold this in place while it dries, making sure it is accurately positioned
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Brake handle/lever - 1
- Decide if you would prefer a brake handle (Southport) as in this photo, or brake lever (Llechwedd) as in the next
- For a handle, cut a piece of brass rod 15mm and file both ends
- Push one end fully into the hole in the seat and the other into the bottom of the handle
- There is a spare handle in the kit
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Brake handle/lever - 2
- For a lever, bend the remaining brass rod as shown with the horizontal part around 15mm long and file both ends
- Push one end fully into the hole in the seat
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Seat
- Place the seat on the body - do not glue it in case you ever need to access the motor
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Battery
- Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 red wires
- Connect the lipo battery and push it into the slot in the middle of the battery box
- Slot the remaining 10g and 5g weights in the space next to the battery if you have the version with lights, or the 10g and both 5g weights if you have the version without lights
- Do not put any weights next to the Mini B to avoid any possibility of a short
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Final Mini B and electronics check
- Turn the switch on and check everything works as expected
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Battery box covers
- Put the battery box covers in place
- Do not glue the one over the battery so that you can access this
- If the Mini B is pushing up slightly due to the wiring you can glue the cover over this to push it down, but use the glue sparingly so that it could be removed in ever necessary
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Coupling pin
- Cut the rivet coupling pin to the desired length
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Coupling hook
- If you have purchased rubble wagons, then a coupling hook is included to allow them to be coupled to the BEV
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Final comments
- The loco is capable of pulling a load of a few wagons
- Driver "Bevan" has been specially designed to fit and is available in 16mm scale from the Clavey Models eBay store
- Power it up and enjoy
- Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain
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