Ant (and Bee) introduction and instructions

• Black: water tank front, water tank holder, water tank / smokebox, chimney, firebox back, firebox front, firebox door, Loco Remote Mini B holder with 2mm bolt, boiler, frames with 2 x 2mm bolts, buffer holder, cylinders, dome cover, dome, boiler front support, boiler rear support, 4 wheels with 2mm bolts, pressure gauge, regulator handle, rear chassis cover, footplate, footplate support, left and right brakes, reverser lever with 2mm bolt, reverser lever side, reverser rod with 2mm bolt, 2 x brake handle holders
• Red: Front buffer beam, 2 x coupling rods, regulator handle, seat
• Brown: 2 x brake blocks

• Loco Remote Mini B (special version)
• Combined motor and gearbox
• On/off switch
• 2A polyfuse
• White power connector and cable for Mini B
• 2 wire motor cable with Dupont connector both ends
• 2 wire LED cable with Dupont connector one end
• PP3 type battery cable
• 4 x AA battery holder with PP3 type connector
• Glowing LED
• Clear heat shrink tubing
• 42mm long axle
• Approx 20cm of 1.5mm diameter brass rod
• M3 bolt and nut
• 2mm allen key for the bolts on the chassis and wheels

• Black: sides, floor, 2 frames, 4 wheels, couplings
• 2 x 42mm long axles

• Ruler
• Pozidriv screwdriver
• 8mm nut driver (optional)
• 2mm allen key (included with kit)
• Needle files
• Drill bits (1.5mm very useful, 1.8mm and 2mm optional) with mini hand drill
• Sharp knife
• Metal cutters (for brass rod)
• Small snipe nose pliers
• Wet and dry paper
• Polystyrene cement (used for Airfix kits)
• Cyanoacrylate (super glue - but ideally not "instant")
• Soldering iron, solder and "helping hands" (not shown) if you do not have the prewired kit

Motor and controller wiring

• Cut the yellow plastic lug at the bottom of the motor below the axle off with a sharp knife if it is not already removed

• Use a small pair of pliers to carefully lift the clear plastic motor retainer off its hook and put this aside

• Cut the Dupont connectors off one end of the long cable leaving the wire it's full length
• Pop a 1 cm piece of heat shrink tubing on one wire then solder the end of this wire to the right motor terminal
• Cut around 3 cm off the other wire so when soldered it looks like the photo
• Pop a 1 cm piece of heat shrink tubing on the shorter wire then solder the end of this wire to the left motor terminal
• Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered motor terminals and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• Position the wires as shown then replace the clear plastic motor retainer onto its hook using pliers. The longer wire should go under the clear plastic. Note that the motor retainer is not symmetrical so check before refitting

• Locate the red and brown cable with Dupont connectors
• Cut the red wire to 6 cm and the brown to 8 cm
• Note that the LED has different length legs
• The longer (positive) one must be joined to the red wire

• Use metal "helping hands" or similar to hold parts to be soldered securely together
• Cut the longer LED leg to just over 1 cm
• Pop a 1.5 cm piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire then solder the end of this to the LED
• Cut the other LED leg to just over 1 cm - note don't cut both legs to start with or you may not know which is which!
• Pop a 1.5 cm piece of heat shrink tubing on the brown wire then solder the end of this to the LED

• Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered LED leads and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place

• Locate the switch, PP3 type battery cable, Mini B power connector and polyfuse

• Pop a 1.5 cm piece of heat shrink tubing on the red Mini B power wire then solder the end of this wire to the centre switch terminal
• Solder one leg of the polyfuse close to the outer switch terminal and then cut off the excess of the leg
• Cut the other polyfuse leg to 1 cm
• Pop a 1.5 cm piece of heat shrink tubing on the red PP3 type battery wire then solder the end of this wire to free polyfuse leg

• Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered leads and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place

• Pop a 1.5 cm piece of heat shrink tubing on one of the black wires and then solder the end of this wire to the other black wire
• Push the heat shrink tubing so it fully covers the soldered leads and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place

• If you have some electrical insulating tape, cut a 5 cm piece and lay the red wire attached to the poyfuse and black wire in this with a gap between them
• Wrap the tape keeping the small gap in place

• Do not connect the battery yet
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
• Connect the red LED wire to the pin marked 3V3 and the brown to the pin marked GND
• Connect the 2 wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the edge of the board with the longer wire (see Wiring up the motor above) plugged onto the inner pin closer to the white socket so that Ant goes in the correct direction - if you get this wrong you can always swap the wires round later

Assembling Ant

• brass boiler bands (use thin painted plastic strip)
• pipework (there is a lot of this - use brass rod)
• water gauges (use square section clear perspex rod)
• whistle

• Push the buffer holder through the front of the frame and glue this in place

• Glue the front buffer in place on the buffer holder making sure it is the right way up as shown
• Squeeze the cylinders beween the frames using the small locating lugs to align them at a slight angle and glue if desired

• Check the footplate holder (a piece of black filament) will just fit into the footplate and support at the back of the frame using a 1.8mm drill bit or needle file if necessary
• Glue the footplate onto the cut out on the bottom of the chassis, ensuring that it is completely flat with the bottom of the chassis
• Insert the footplate holder right through the chassis support and into the footplate
• Glue this in place and trim to length and put the chassis aside for the glue to set

• Use pliers to bend a very small part at the end of the brass rod for the door handle
• Cut this off with a total length on just 5-6mm
• File the ends of the rod (and all future pieces of rod) as needed

• Cut a 15mm piece of rod and feed this though the hinges of the firebox front and door - do not glue

• Glue the firebox back to the front using the locating guides
• Glue the Loco Remote holder to the firebox back making sure the small notch at the bottom is aligned
• Glue the handle to the door

• Feed the motor wires through the small rectangular hole on the chassis - you will need to do this one connector at a time as it is a small hole
• Push the motor into the chassis with the wires on the left side when looking at the chassis from underneath towards the front as shown
• It should be a secure and tight fit - if there is any slight play slip a very thin piece of plastic or card between the motor and the sides of the chassis
• Do not use glue in case you need to remove the motor

• Remove the 2mm bolt from each wheel using the allen key provided
• Two of the wheels have rectangular centres and push fit on to the motor axles
• Carefully push one of the other wheels onto the metal axle - it should be a tight push fit
• Position the axle through the chassis and push fit the other wheel on
• The back to back wheel spacing should be set at 28mm which means 1mm of metal axle should be showing outside each wheel

• The wheels on the motor axle will be self quartered due to their rectangular mount
• Rotate the other pair of wheels so that one lines up with a motor wheel
• Check that the coupling rods will rotate freely on the 2mm bolts, using a 2mm hand drill to clear them if necessary
• Very carefully put a drop of cyanoacrylate (super glue - but ideally not "instant") into the hole on a motor wheel then screw the bolt into this through the coupling rod using the allen key - make sure you back off a half turn from fully in so the coupling rod can move freely
• Repeat the process with the wheel on the metal axle

• Turn to the other side and carefully rotate the wheel on the metal axle while holding the one on the other side so it aligns with the one on the motor
• This will take a little gentle wiggling and checking back and forth between the two sides to ensure the wheels are all correctly in quadrature
• Fix the bolt to the motor wheel through the coupling rod as before
• Repeat the process with the wheel on the metal axle

• Connect up the Mini B and battery to the motor and run it gently to ensure accurate alignment of the wheels and coupling rods, tweaking as necessary
• The wheels are all designed to be a friction fit and should not need gluing

• Push (but do not glue) the water tank holder into the groove on the back of the water tank front
• Smear some glue right round the inside of the water tank

• Push the water tank front and holder tightly into the water tank
• Remove the front and leave glue to dry
• Once dry the front will now securely clip on and off the water tank for easy access to the batteries

• Use the M3 bolt and nut to secure the chimney to the smoke box at the back of the water tank

• Locate the front and rear boiler supports - the one with the rectangular hole is the front
• Very carefully push fit / wiggle these into the holes on the underside of the boiler, supporting the boiler on the inside with your thumb while you do this
• They should be an exact tight fit, but use a small file to open out the holes if necessary
• You can use glue to secure the supports to the underside of the boiler if desired

• Feed the motor wires through the small rectangular hole into the boiler - you will need to do this one connector at a time as it is a small hole
• Very carefully push fit / wiggle the boiler supports into the holes on the chassis
• They should be an exact tight fit, but use a small file to open out the holes if necessary
• You can use glue to secure the supports to the chassis if desired

• Feed the motor wires through to the back of the boiler
• Glue the rear chassis cover to the chassis with the curved support pushed up against the rear boiler support

• Use wet and dry paper to ensure the underside of the dome is smooth so it fits exactly on the boiler
• Remove the nuts from the switch and push this through the hole in the top of the boiler into the hole in the dome, gluing the dome to the boiler if desired
• Position the switch so the soldered lug to the battery connector is at the rear - this way pushing the switch towards the front will turn the power on
• Use the 8mm nut driver or pliers to secure the nut tightly, making sure the switch is accurately in line with the boiler

• The Mini B white power connector should come out of rear of the boiler
• The PP3 type battery connector should come out of the front

• Use the allen key to remove the 2mm bolt from the holder on the firebox
• Position the Mini B on the lugs and then secure it in place with the 2mm bolt
• Push the glowing LED into the hole on the top of the firebox
• Carefully bend its legs flat on the top of the firebox
• Connect the red LED wire to the pin marked 3V3 and the brown to the pin marked GND

• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
• Connect the 2 wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the edge of the board with the longer wire (see Wiring up the motor above) plugged onto the inner pin closer to the white socket so that Ant goes in the correct direction - if you get this wrong you can always swap the wires round later
• Push fit the firebox into the back of the boiler, making sure that none of the wires gets trapped between the pieces
• Do NOT use glue to attach the firebox - you may need to remove it should any of the wires ever become loose in the future

• Push fit the smokebox / water tank onto the front of the boiler - it is a friction fit
• There is no need to glue it - being able to remove it makes access inside the boiler easier if needed

• Locate the brakes, blocks and reverser pieces

• Glue the blocks onto the brakes
• Glue the small circular reverser lever side so the the lever passes through the sides

• Bend a 15mm length of brass rod to an L shape
• Cut an 8mm length of rod to the support
• Insert these as shown into the brake handle holder - note two holders are included in case one is misplaced since they are very small

• Push the rod on the bottom of the brake handle into the hole on the chassis and glue the pieces together

• Cut a 34mm length of brass rod and push this right through the holes on the chassis behind the motor
• Push fit the brakes onto this and glue them to the chassis

• Make sure the brakes fit as shown round the wheels with sufficient clearance for them not to touch

• Use the allen key to remove the two 2mm bolts from the side of the chassis
• Push one bolt through the hole on the reverser lever with the lever leaning towards the front
• Screw this into the hole on the chassis - you can use a little glue on the supports that touch the chassis
• Push the other bolt through the hole on the reverser rod
• Screw this into the hole on the chassis with the rod horizontal
• Glue the end of the rod to the reverser lever

• Make a small 1.5mm hole in the right side of the dome just above the solid floor
• Check the pressure gauge mount slips onto the regulator support at the back of the dome
• Now for the trickiest part!
• Use pliers to bend a 45mm long piece of brass rod between the hole under the pressure gauge and the hole in the dome - take your time so the gauge is vertical and not under any strain from the rod
• Once you have the rod bent correctly, glue the pressure gauge holder in place

• Cut two 9mm long pieces of brass rod
• Both a red and a black reglator handle are included with the kit - use whichever you prefer
• Insert a piece of rod into the holes at either end
• Push the rod at the wider end into the hole in the dome as shown
• Do NOT glue this so that the handle can be adjusted

• The driver available from Clavey Models has a hand designed to securely hold the regulator handle
• The dome cover is a push fit on the dome
• Do NOT glue this so that you can access the on/off switch

• Use pliers to bend a 35mm long piece of brass rod to fit in the two holes at the back of the top of the seat - the verticals are around 5mm with the middle bent to fit

• Insert a 10mm long piece of brass rod into the seat support at the back of the chassis
• Plug the seat into this, allowing it to swivel

• Turn the power switch on
• The flirebox LED should glow
• Connect up your phone to run the loco

Assembling the lead ore tub

• There is a small lip round the inside of the bottom of the tub sides
• Glue the floor to this with the cut outs on the outside - note that some kits come with the floor already in place

• Glue the two chassis pieces to the bottom of the floor with the moulded pieces pointing out

• Insert the axles and check they rotate freely before the glue dries - if they don't then adjust as necessary

• Remove the axles and push fit a wheel onto each
• Insert the axles and push fit on the other wheels
• The back to back wheel spacing should be set at 28mm which means 1mm of metal axle should be showing outside each wheel

• The tubs come with specially designed couplings which can be push fitted on and off
• Carefully push fit one onto the hole at the end of the tub

• The coupling that fits to the loco has an angle to it, just like the original, to account for the different coupling heights
• Carefully push fit this onto the hole at the front of loco

• If you have purchased more than one tub, additional couplings are included to connect these
• Carefully push fit one onto the hole at the end of the tub
• The other end has a piece of brass rod that goes through the hole in the floor of the next tub

• Ant is capable of pulling and pushing a few loaded tubs
• Power it up and enjoy
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain
• Remove the batteries and recharge them in a standard AA NiMH charger