Amberley Brush 16303 electric locomotive
introduction and instructions

Parts - 16mm shown with notes below on 7/8ths version

• Black: 2 derailing bars, 4 wheels, 2 axle box sides, motor pulley, 2 axle pulleys on axles
• Grey or white: chassis, motor cover(2 for 7/8ths), floor, cab shell, 2 cab interior sides, 2 exterior cab sides, 2 bonnets, motor in 3 pieces, chain guard, control panel, 2 pairs of window frames
• Brown: seat

• Loco Remote Mini B
• White power connector and cable for Mini B
• 2 O rings
• Clear heat shrink tubing
• 1.5mm diameter brass rod
• 2 clear windows
• Wooden cocktail stick

• Combined motor and gearbox
• On/off slide switch
• White flat connector and cable for lipo battery
• 2 wire motor cable with Dupont connectors
• 2 axles 50mm long
• 40g tyre weights

• Ruler
• Needle files
• Hammer
• Drill bits (1.5mm very useful) with mini finger drill
• Sharp knife
• Tweezers
• Metal cutters (for brass rod)
• Small snipe nose pliers
• Wet and dry paper
• Rubber bands
• Polystyrene cement (used for Airfix kits)
• Glue 'n' Glaze for fixing clear windows
• Soldering iron, solder and "helping hands" (not shown) if you do not have the prewired kit

16mm Wiring
16mm ONLY - 7/8ths see below

• Locate the on/off switch, power cables and heat shrink tubing
• Cut one of the outer tabs off the switch if this is not already done
• Using a sharp knife, reduce the height of the plastic switch handle so that about 4mm remains - you don't have to do this but it looks better not sticking out so far
• Cut the red wire attached to the white Mini B power connector to 6cm and strip the end
• Cut the black wire attached to the white Mini B power connector to 3.5cm and strip the end
• Cut the wires attached to the white flat lipo connector to 6cm and strip the ends
• Cut 3 pieces of heat shrink tubing to approx 10mm
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire attached to the white Mini B power connector
• Solder this red wire onto the middle switch tab
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire only attached to the white flat lipo connector
• Solder this red wire onto one outer switch tab
• Push each heat shrink tubing on both the red wires so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• Slip another piece of heat shrink tubing on the black wire only attached to the white flat lipo connector
• Solder the two black wires together
• Push the heat shrink tubing on the black wire so it fully cover the soldered join and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place
• IMPORTANT - make absolutely sure the soldered tabs and black wire join are fully covered by the tubing and there is no possibility of any tabs or exposed wires touching and causing a short
• Make sure the completed switch wiring is the same as the photo

• NOTE - some kits are supplied with blue/green and some with yellow/orange motor wires
• Slide the double motor pulley onto the motor shaft noting the flat part - it is a deliberately tight fit so you may need to open it slightly with a needle file
• Cut the blue and green (or yellow and orange) wires to 16cm and strip the ends a SMALL AMOUNT
• Slip an 8mm piece of heat shrink tubing on both wires
• Orient the motor as shown - locate the top which has a half width piece of brass support in the gearbox
• Solder the blue (or yellow) wire to the tab on the same side as the half width piece of brass (top in the photo) - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
• Solder the green (or orange) wire to the other tab - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
• Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• These connections can be fragile so don't bend them until you are ready to put the motor in the chassis later
• If you accidentally attach the blue and green (or yellow and orange) wires the wrong way round don't worry - it just means you will need to connect them to the motor output pins of the Mini B the other way round so that the loco runs forwards correctly

16mm Connecting and checking the electronics
16mm ONLY - 7/8ths see below

• Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 red wires
• Space in the rear box is tight so you may wish to gently pull off and discard the black plastic piece on the 2 motor pins on the Mini B that protrudes slightly from the board so that the motor connectors will push fully on and save you a couple of mm - use a small pair of pliers to wiggle this off
• Connect the 2 wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the edge of board with the blue (or yellow) wire plugged onto the outer pin further from the white socket so that loco goes in the correct direction - if you get this wrong you can always swap the wires round later
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
• Connect the lipo battery - do this carefully as the pins are small so do not try to force it

• Check everything works by turning the switch on
• The blue LED on the Mini B board should do a brief flash
• Connect your smartphone to the Mini B as described in the Mini B setup guide
• Run the controller from your screen
• When going Forward, the motor shaft should be rotating clockwise as you look directly at it - if it is rotating anti-clockwise reverse the blue and green (or yellow and orange) motor wires
• You can change the name on the screen (for example to Amberley) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the components
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain

Assembling the loco - photos show 16mm version
Notes in red refer to key differences with the 7/8ths version

• Locate the wheels and axles
• Drive pulleys have already been prealigned on the axles - note they are correctly in slightly different places on the axles for 16mm version - for 7/8ths they are in the same place

• Use a small hammer to tap the axles into the wheels, then push the wheels along with your fingers being careful not to move the pulleys
• If you do need to move the pulleys for any reason then the easiest way is to push down on them with your fingers with the end of the axle on a hard surface

• Back to back wheel spacing should be 28mm for 32mm gauge or 40.5mm for 45mm gauge (7/8ths only)

• Locate the chassis and 2 derailing bars
• Glue the derailing bars inside the corners under the chassis
• Note 7/8ths has 2 motors

• Locate the chassis, 2 axle box sides, 2 axles with wheels, 2 O rings, motor and motor cover
• Check the axles rotate freely in the axle box holes
• Note 7/8ths has 2 motors

• Using the holes as a guide, gently push 1 axle box side into the holes on the side of the chassis with the motor block - these are a deliberately tight fit and should not need gluing so they can be removed for maintenance later if needed

• Put an O ring onto each axle - don't forget!
• Put the axles into the already fitted axle boxes with the pulleys on the side away from the motor block as shown - it does not matter which axle is which
• Fit the axles into the remaining axle boxes and push fit the side into the chassis
• Check the axles rotate freely
• Note 7/8ths has 2 motors

• Carefully push the motor into the hole on the top of the chassis with the blue and green (or yellow and orange) wires oriented as shown - you may need to wiggle it a little and move the pulley slightly out to get the motor in place
• It is a secure fit so try to avoid taking the motor in and out of the hole as this may weaken the joints to the wires

• Feed the wires through the hole in the chassis above the motor
• Pull the wires all the way through above the axle

• Place the motor cover over the motor - it has cut outs for the wires

• Carefully stretch the O ring on the axle with the pulley closer to the middle onto the motor pulley nearer to the motor - you may find a pair of tweezers helpful but be careful not to damage the O ring
• Stretch the O ring over the pulley on the motor
• Repeat the process for the other O ring and axle

• Locate the floor, bonnets, motor in 3 pieces, chain guard, brake handle, brake support, weights, brass rod and seat (not shown)

• Remove the blue backing and stick the weights in the enclosure in the front in 2 layers of 20g (2 layers of 30g for 7/8ths)
• Glue the 2 halves of the motor together with the small cuboid piece between them for alignment
• Glue the seat on top of the motor
• Glue the chain guard into the motor and before the glue has set, glue the complete assembly into the cut out on the floor

• File one end of the rod so it is slightly rounded - you need to do this so it will fit easily in a hole
• Make sure you repeat this filing for subsequent steps each time you need a piece of rod

• For the 7/8ths it is easier to fit the on/off switch before attaching the bonnet - see below
• Place a bonnet onto the floor with the holes for the hinge aligned
• Cut a 6mm length of brass rod (9mm for 7/8ths)
• Push the rounded end gently through the hinge into the bonnet lug as shown - gently does it with some wiggling - it is designed to be a firm fit
• As the rod goes in make sure you support the other side of the hinge firmly with your finger so as not to snap this
• Make sure the rod is fully through both sides of the floor hinge
• File the end of the next piece of rod, cut this to 6mm and repeat the process for the other hinge
• Repeat the process for the other bonnet

• The bonnets should open freely on the hinges when complete

• Feed the wires through the hole from the outside and push the switch fully in place with the red wires at the top - it is a tight fit and you may need to open the hole slightly with a file

• Push the cab shell onto the floor but do NOT glue it yet - you will use this as a guide for the brake support
• Cut off a 7mm length of brass rod for the brake handle (10mm for 7/8ths)
• Cut off a 43mm length of brass rod and file both ends (60mm for 7/8ths)
• Fit the brake support and brake handle as shown
• Move the brake support so that it just rests on the top of the bar in the cab with the other end of the rod in the hole in the floor but do NOT glue it yet
• Remove the cab shell
• For 7/8ths version only it is recommended that you do accurately glue the cab shell to the floor in this step and push it firmly in place - make sure the sides of the cab and floor are flush

• Glue the cab interior sides into the cab shell
• Make sure the small bolts at the bottom are on the outside and that the cab sides are completely flush with the cab shell edges - take time to get this accurate as it will matter later
• For 7/8ths version only the cab shell should have been glued to the floor - glue the cab interior sides to this and the cab shell

• Feed the motor wires through the hole in the floor at the battery end (2 sets of wires for 7/8ths)
• Push the floor onto the 4 black lugs protruding from the axle boxes through the chassis
• This is a deliberately tight friction fit - it is suggested that you don't glue the floor to the chassis in case you need to access the motor(s) in the future

• Plug the white power connector into the Mini B - the red wire is on the outer edge
• Connect the blue and green (or yellow and orange) wires to the Mini B motor output pins with the blue (or yellow) wire on the outside/bottom
• Push the Mini B into its holding tabs
• Tuck wires out of the way between the Mini B and the front

• You can use either a 600/650mAh or 1200mAh 3.7V lipo battery with the power connector shown - the larger battery lasts twice as long as the smaller and is recommended if you can easily get one

• Make sure the switch is set to off - this should be down
• Connect the lipo battery
• Turn on the power switch - this should be up
• Connect your phone to the Mini B and bring up the control interface
• Check the wheels turn freely in the right direction - the controller and battery are at the rear!
• If the wheels turn in the opposite direction then just swap the blue and green (or yellow and orange) wire connectors at the Mini B
• Turn off the power switch
• Remove the battery

• Put a line of glue along the floor grooves which will hold the cab
• Fit the cab in place - to do this loop one side bottom over the sticking out floor side plate and then carefully flex the other side bottom so it pops over the other side plate - the plastic is strong and flexible enough for this but do it carefully to get a nice tight fit (7/8ths version should already have cab glued in previous step)
• Glue the brake support just above the line on the cab inside
• Make sure the on/off switch is pushed fully in to its hole and add the exterior cab side to this side first (7/8ths version has switch inside the bonnet)
• Open the bonnets
• Smear glue along the floor sides and right round the cab sides
• Close the bonnets but do NOT put glue on their sides

• Glue the exterior cab side with a switch hole in place using the closed bonnets as a guide
• 7/8ths version has switch inside the bonnet

• Repeat for the other exterior cab side
• Make sure both sides are accurately aligned round the cab and bonnet (remember no glue on the bonnet sides!) with clamps and rubber bands before the glue fully sets

• Use pliers to bend a small handle for the speed selector from the brass rod and cut this off
• Fit this in the hole

• Glue the control panel against the inside front wall of the cab

• Locate the 2 clear windows with protective film on them and the 2 pairs of frames
• Check each window fits in the part of the frame with a notch, using wet and dry paper on the edge of the window if needed

• Glue 'n' Glaze is recommended as it does not leave any smearing or fogging on the windows - polystyrene cement and superglue are very likely to cause fogging
• Run a thin line of Glue 'n' Glaze along the frame notch

• Remove the protective backing from one side of the longer clear window and position this in the frame and leave it to set
• Remove the protective backing from the other side of the clear window
• Repeat for the other window

• Glue the outer frames in place - the clear window should be sandwiched between them and the printed hinges on the outside as shown

• Glue the complete frame over the window opening at the front of the cab as shown
• The side of the window without a piece of frame should be at the bottom when fitted to the cab
• Repeat for the other frame at the rear

• Use the remaining brass rod to bend towing hooks which should be a secure fit in the holes in the buffers

• Push the cocktail stick through the holes in the floor to open the bonnets for access
• If you lose the stick, use something similar made of wood or plastic but NOT metal so as not to damage the Mini B!

• Tuck the battery behind the separator as shown
• The 1200mAh battery is quite a tight fit so wiggle the wires carefully in place - take your time so as not to damage any connections

• Amberley 16303 is capable of pulling a few lightly loaded wagons
• Driver Viv has been especially designed to fit and is available in both 16mm and 7/8ths inch scale from the Clavey Models eBay store
• Power it up and enjoy
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain

Notes for 7/8ths version ONLY

7/8ths Wiring

• Locate the on/off switch, power cables and heat shrink tubing
• Cut the red wire attached to the white Mini B power connector to 6cm and strip the end
• Cut the black wire attached to the white Mini B power connector to 4cm and strip the end
• Cut the wires attached to the PP3 connector to 12cm and strip the ends
• Cut 5 pieces of heat shrink tubing to approx 12mm
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire attached to the white Mini B power connector
• Solder this red wire onto the middle switch tab
• Slip 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing over BOTH PP3 wires
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on the red PP3 wire only
• Solder this red wire onto the outer switch tab
• Push each heat shrink tubing on both the red wires so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• Slip another piece of heat shrink tubing on the black PP3 wire
• Solder the two black wires together
• Push the heat shrink tubing on the black wire so it fully cover the soldered join and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place
• Move the2 pieces of heat shrink tubing covering both PP3 wires along and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place to help keep the PP3 red and black wires together
• IMPORTANT - make absolutely sure the soldered tabs and black wire join are fully covered by the tubing and there is no possibility of any tabs or exposed wires touching and causing a short
• Make sure the completed switch wiring is the same as the photo

• Slide the double motor pulley onto the motor shaft noting the flat part - it is a deliberately tight fit so you may need to open it slightly with a needle file
• Cut one pair of yellow and orange wires to 14cm and strip the ends a SMALL AMOUNT
• Cut the other pair of yellow and orange wires to 16cm and strip the ends a SMALL AMOUNT
• Slip an 8mm piece of heat shrink tubing on each wire
• Orient each motor as shown (see next photo for close up) - locate the top which has a half width piece of brass support in the gearbox
• For the first motor solder the yellow wire to the tab on the same side as the half width piece of brass (top in the photo) - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
• For the first motor solder the orange wire to the other tab - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor
• Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• Repeat soldering the yellow and orange wires for the second motor
• These connections can be fragile so don't bend them until you are ready to put the motor in the chassis later
• If you accidentally attach the yellow and orange wires the wrong way round don't worry - it just means you will need to connect them to the motor output pins of the Mini B the other way round so that the loco runs forwards correctly

7/8ths Connecting and checking the electronics

• Check the yellow wires are soldered to the tab on the same side as the half width piece of brass support in the gearbox

• Connect one pair of motor wires to the outer pair of pins with orange on the outside
• Connect the other pair of motor wires to the inner pair of pins with orange on the outside - i.e. the 2 yellow wires should be in the middle of the 4 wires
• Make sure the on/off switch is set to off - the toggle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 red wires
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side

• Put 4 x AA 1.2V NiMH rechargeable batteries in the holder
• Connect the PP3 clip to the battery holder

• Check everything works by turning the switch on
• The blue LED on the Mini B board should do a brief flash
• Connect your smartphone to the Mini B as described in the Mini B setup guide
• Run the controller from your screen
• When going Forward, the motor shafts should be rotating clockwise as you look directly at them - if either is rotating anti-clockwise reverse the relevant yellow and orange motor wires
• You can change the name on the screen (for example to Amberley) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
• The "Shutdown on low battery" setting has already been turned off since we are not using lipo batteries so you see battery voltage but not % remaining
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the components
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain

Assembling the loco 7/8ths version differences

• Carefully push the motors into the holes on the top of the chassis with the yellow and orange wires oriented as shown - the one with the longer wires on the left (front) as shown
• You may need to wiggle them a little and move the pulleys slightly out to get the motors in place
• They are a secure fit so try to avoid taking the motors in and out of the hole as this may weaken the joints to the wires

• Feed the wires from the left (front) motor through the holes in the top of the chassis above the right motor as shown
• If you have difficulty fitting them through the hole above the right motor, turn the chassis upside down and push the connectors against the under floor of the chassis with a small screwdriver - they do fit so take your time

• Feed the wires from the right (rear) motor through the holes as shown - you will need to do this one connector at a time to get them to fit through the hole

• Pull the wires all the way through above the axle
• Make sure the wires are flat and not crossed above a motor or you will find the cover won't fit

• Place the motor covers over the motors - they have cut outs for the wires

• Carefully stretch the O rings on each axle onto the axle and motor pulleys - you may find a pair of tweezers helpful but be careful not to damage the O rings
• Note each motor pulley has a double ring so just go over the one that better aligns with the axle pulley

• Do this BEFORE fitting the bonnets as it is easier to fit
• Remove a nut and washer from the switch
• Align the switch so the red wires are on the outside - this way pushing the switch towards the battery will turn it on
• Feed the Mini B wires under the bracket
• Wiggle the switch up into the hole

• Place the washer and nut on the switch and tighten it in place
• The Mini B and battery wires should be either side of the switch as shown

• Connect one pair of motor wires to the outer pair of pins with orange on the outside
• Connect the other pair of motor wires to the inner pair of pins with orange on the outside - i.e. the 2 yellow wires should be in the middle of the 4 wires
• Make sure the on/off switch is set to off - the toggle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 red wires
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Mini B - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side

• Push the Mini B into its holding tabs
• Tuck wires out of the way between the Mini B and the front
• Put 4 x AA NiMH rechargeable batteries in the holder
• Stick a piece of velcro onto the battery holder to make it easier to pull out
• Connect the PP3 clip to the battery holder
• Turn on the power switch
• Connect your phone to the Mini B and bring up the control interface
• Check the wheels turn freely in the right direction - the controller and battery are at the rear!
• If the wheels turn in the opposite direction then just swap the yellow and orange wire connectors at the Mini B
• Turn off the power switch
• Remove the battery