Loco Remote

Tipping Tim introduction and instructions Have you ever fancied a self propelled Binnie tipper that is remote controlled and has the skip completely free to fill and tip? Working together with Peter Binnie, Loco Remote introduces the Tipping Tim kit in 32mm and 45mm gauge. The kit includes the tipper, wheels, axles, axle boxes and supports from a standard Binnie tipper fitted to a new motorised chassis controlled by a customised Loco Remote Mini B and battery tucked under the seat. All you need to add is a small 300/380mAh lipo battery which should last 2-3 hours and a driver. David Clavey has specially designed drivers for Tim in both 16mm and 7/8ths inch scale available at the Clavey Models eBay store. Both axles are driven by a geared down motor to provide good grip and low speed torque. This allows Tim to pull a couple of other loaded Binnie tippers. Top speed is a 16mm scale 3.3mph. It runs realistically slowly (so don’t expect an express!) and is extremely controllable via the Mini B. Tim is not a true scale model and works equally well with a 16mm or 7/8ths inch scale driver and is ideal for further customisation! Tim is sized to be a match to the standard Binnie tipper and accommodate all the electronics under the seat. Tim's chassis and gears are printed in PLA Super Tough. This means that while it is fine to run it anywhere, do not leave it standing outside in hot sun for any length of time, especially if it is unpainted. Above around 50 degrees C (120 degrees F) PLA can start to soften and so it may deform. Remember this is the temperature of the PLA which may be higher than the air temperature in the sun. PLA ST is more resilient than standard PLA, but please still treat it with care. The kit has been designed to have many of the parts friction fit together without the need for glue. Polystyrene cement (used for Airfix kits) works well on this PLA. Smear glue on both parts and then hold them together until set in a few minutes. Other glues including epoxy can be used but note that cyanoacrylate (super glue) may well leave a white bloom on the surface of the PLA that is hard to remove. www.locoremote.co.uk
The 3D printed parts are Black: chassis with 2mm bolt, motor holder (with motor already fitted), motor cover, seat, battery spacer, 2 pulleys (on axles), 3 pairs of gears (1 on axle) White: gear and wheel alignment jig The others parts are Loco Remote Mini B wired directly to motor 2mm allen key for the bolt on the chassis O ring belt Binnie tipper kit including axles and instructions
To complete the kit you will need Polystyrene cement (used for Airfix kits). Optional Hobbycraft silicone glue for the axle boxes (not shown) 300mAh or 380mAh 3.7V lipo battery with the correct Losi connector. Make absolutely sure the battery has the correct flat connector with the red and black wires as shown. They all should do, but make sure you check - accidental reverse polarity will destroy the Mini B! We suggest: Turnigy 300mAh from Hobbyking to which you will need to add a suitable mini charger. Generic 380mAh lipo suitable for a Hubsan H107 from eBay - or search for "380mAh lipo H107" on your local eBay. Several UK sellers supply 2 batteries with a mini charger for around £10.	Tipper Glue the tipper ends onto the tipper and paint if desired.
Chassis tipper supports Glue the tipper supports to the chassis.	Checking the Mini B and motor Push the motor gear onto the motor shaft. Note it has a flat for alignment. There are 3 motor and 3 axle gears supplied with the kit so you have 2 sets of spares should you ever need them. Connect the battery to the Mini B controller. Follow the instructions at Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide to set up the Wi-Fi connection to the Mini B. Run the controller from your screen. When going Forward, the motor gear should be rotating anti-clockwise as you look directly at it. If it is not then please contact us. As there is no space for an on/off switch it is essential that you always unplug the battery when not using the loco so it does not got completely flat and become unusable. Do this by carefully holding a white connector in each hand and gently pulling them apart. Do not pull them apart by holding the wires.
Removing the chassis bolt Use the allen key provided to remove the 2mm bolt from under the seat of the chassis and put it somewhere safe.	Wheels and axles The pulleys and gear are supplied fitted to the axles. Put each axle in turn into the jig and push the wheels on as shown to set the correct back to back distance. The pulleys, gear and wheels should all be a tight friction fit and should not need gluing. If you do glue them it will make it very hard to replace the gear should this ever be necessary.
Fitting the electronics Push the motor cover above the internal gears on the motor. It is a tight fit. Feed the Mini B through the hole in the chassis floor from underneath.	Fitting the motor Push the motor into the space on the chassis. It is a tight fit and should not be glued so that the motor can be removed if required.
Mini B controller Tuck the blue and white wires into the gap in the floor. Position the Mini B as shown with the red and black battery wires sticking up. Use the allen key to screw the 2mm bolt through the Mini B to secure this to the chassis.	Rear axle Pass the rear axle through the O ring. Slip the axle boxes onto each end then push fit these into the chassis holes. Check the alignment of the gears. There should be the smallest amount of play between them. If necessary move the axle gear a fraction of a mm on the axle. This is done most easily by removing the axle and then using your finger and thumb to pinch this along. Lightly glue the axle boxes with either silicone glue or polystyrene cement into the holes. This should hold them in place securely while allowing you to remove them if you ever need to replace the gear or O ring. If you use silicone glue then the axle boxes can be removed completely cleanly. Use a very light smear and avoid getting any on the frames as it can leave a small glossy patch.
Front axle Pass the front axle through the O ring. Leave the O ring just round the axles and not on the pulleys. Slip the axle boxes onto each end. Lightly glue the axle boxes with either silicone glue or polystyrene cement into the holes. This should hold them in place securely while allowing you to remove them if you ever need to replace the O ring. If you use silicone glue then the axle boxes can be removed completely cleanly. Use a very light smear and avoid getting any on the frames as it can leave a small glossy patch.	Pulleys Make sure the glue on the axle boxes has set. Push the O ring over the pulley on each axle.
Battery spacer Lay the spacer on the Mini B. There is a cut out for the red and black battery wires.	Attaching the battery Gently connect the battery to the cable, making sure the polarity is correct.
Battery position Carefully place the wires and battery into position. Space is very tight, especially with the 380mAh battery, but it will just fit under the seat. Don't force it but experiment to find the best fit, probably as shown with the connector under the battery. As there is no space for an on/off switch it is essential that you always unplug the battery when not using the loco so it does not got completely flat and become unusable. Do this by carefully holding a white connector in each hand and gently pulling them apart. Do not pull them apart by holding the wires.	Seat Clip the seat into position. It is a friction fit. Do not glue it since you need access to the battery!
Running the loco Bring up the controller interface on your screen to run the loco.	Final comments Tipping Tim is quite a light loco and benefits from having a driver sitting on the seat. Connect up a couple of light skips or wagons and control from your smartphone interface. Do not overload it as you may wear the gears, but they are replaceable if you do! Enjoy!

Tipping Tim introduction and instructions