Loco Remote

'Issing Sid introduction and instructions A 16mm scale model of the replica Lishman & Young 2’-0” gauge compressed air locomotive designed by Roy Etherington and constructed at Statfold. It is a small, light, 4 wheel drive loco just 116mm long capable of pulling a few skips, rather like the prototype. It will not haul a long, heavy train. It is available in 32mm gauge only. The kit contains everything you need including a Loco Remote Mini B to build a fully remote controlled loco. You just add a 3.7V lipo battery (no other type fits in the barrel) to get up and running with your smartphone. It is 3D printed in PLA ST (super tough) black and PLA+ red, brown and white. This means that while it is fine to run it anywhere, do not leave it standing outside in hot sun for any length of time, especially if it is unpainted. Above around 50 degrees C (120 degrees F) PLA can start to soften and so it may deform. Remember this is the temperature of the PLA which may be higher than the air temperature in the sun. PLA ST is more resilient than standard PLA, but as the loco has a lot of small parts please still treat it with care. The kit has been designed to have many of the parts friction fit together without the need for glue. In fact the only parts that will need gluing are the buffer ends onto the buffers onto the chassis frame, some of the fittings on the barrel ends, and the bolts that secure the coupling rods to the wheels. Polystyrene cement (used for Airfix kits) works well on this PLA. Smear glue on both parts and then hold them together until set in a few minutes. Other glues including epoxy can be used but note that cyanoacrylate (super glue) may well leave a white bloom on the surface of the PLA that is hard to remove. This may be okay if you are painting Sid afterwards but otherwise best avoid it. The only exception to this is fixing the bolts to the wheels covered in that section below. For the friction fit parts, a very gentle rub with wet and dry paper may be needed on some edges if they are too tight. Similarly some of the holes on the barrel ends for the seats and pressure gauge may need slight opening with a needle file or finger drill. Please do this slowly and gently as they are small parts. You should not need to open the axle holes on the wheels at all as they have been hand finished already for a tight fit. www.locoremote.co.uk
The 3D printed parts are Black: motor holder, 4 wheels with 2mm bolts, chassis frame, brake mechanism with 2mm bolt, 4 buffer ends, 2 coupling hooks, switch holder, barrel, 2 barrel ends, 2 regulator fittings, filling valve Red: 2 wheel coupling rods, 2 regulators Brown: 4 buffers, brake block, 2 seats White: pressure gauge The others parts are Loco Remote Mini B 42mm long axle 2mm allen key for the bolts on the wheels and brake mechanism approx 50mm of 1.5mm brass rod for pressure gauge and regulators
Begin construction with the electrical pack which contains combined motor and gearbox on/off switch 2A polyfuse wired power connector for Mini B wired lipo battery connector 2 wire motor cable with Dupont connector clear heat shrink tubing	Preparing the motor Cut the yellow plastic lug at the bottom of the motor below the axle off with a sharp knife if it is not already removed Use a small pair of pliers to carefully lift the clear plastic motor retainer off its hook and put this aside
Wiring up the motor Cut one of the motor wires to around 12 cm and the other to around 10 cm Pop a 1 cm piece of heat shrink tubing on the longer wire then solder the end of this wire to the left motor terminal Pop a 1 cm piece of heat shrink tubing on the shorter wire then solder the end of this wire to the right motor terminal Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered motor terminals and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place Position the wires as shown then replace the clear plastic motor retainer onto its hook using pliers. The longer wire should go under the clear plastic. Note that it is not symmetrical so check before refitting	Wiring up the battery and switch connections Use metal "helping hands" or similar to hold parts to be soldered securely together Cut the wires on the connector that plugs into the Mini B to around 6 cm Pop a 1 cm piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire then solder the end of this wire to the centre switch terminal Cut the wires on the connector that plugs into the lipo battery to around 7 cm Pop a 1 cm piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire then solder the end of this wire to the outer switch terminal Cut the legs of the polyfuse a little so they are around 1 cm long Pop a 1 cm piece of heat shrink tubing on each black Mini B connector and lipo battery wire solder the ends of these wires to the polyfuse Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered terminals and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
The completed assemblies should look like this IMPORTANT! Make absolutely sure there is no exposed metal, especially on the polyfuse, as this could cause a short in the compact space of the barrel. The heat shrink tubing should fully cover all the soldered joints.	Motor and controller check Check everything works by connecting the Mini B and lipo battery and turning the switch on. A new motor will probably start to rotate when the speed is at 30-40% to overcome the initial resistance. Once moving you can slow it down to around 10% and it will just rotate. The best way to get going slowly once it is in the loco is to tap 1st gear then as soon as it starts to move tap slower several times to get to the speed you want.
Chassis and frames Use polystyrene cement to glue each black buffer end to a brown buffer and then glue these to the outside corners of the frame Push the friction fit coupling hooks into the holes, though they can be glued if you wish	Motor holder and chassis Align the motor holes between the pieces and gently push fit the two pieces together , but do not force them You may need to run a piece of wet and dry paper over the edges at the top of the motor holder
Motor holder and chassis The two pieces should be a tight friction fit and not glued unless necessary	Mounting the motor Align the motor so that the wires are on the opposite side to the brake mounting hole in the middle of the frame Feed the wires through carefully and push the motor fully up as a tight friction fit Do not use glue in case you need to remove the motor
Wheels and axle Remove the 2mm bolt from each wheel using the allen key provided Two of the wheels have rectangular centres and push fit on to the motor axles Carefully push one of the other wheels onto the metal axle - it should be a tight push fit Position the axle through the motor holder and push fit the other wheel on The back to back wheel spacing should be set at 28mm which means 1mm of metal axle should be showing outside each wheel	Aligning the wheels The wheels on the motor axle will be self quartered due to their rectangular mount Rotate the other pair of wheels so that one lines up with a motor wheel Check that the coupling rods will rotate freely on the 2mm bolts, using a 2mm hand drill to clear them if necessary Very carefully put a drop of cyanoacrylate (super glue - but ideally not "instant") into the hole on a motor wheel then screw the bolt into this through the coupling rod using the allen key - make sure you back off a half turn from fully in so the coupling rod can move freely Repeat the process with the wheel on the metal axle
Aligning the wheels Turn to the other side and carefully rotate the wheel on the metal axle while holding the one on the other side so it aligns with the one on the motor This will take a little gentle wiggling and checking back and forth between the two sides to ensure the wheels are all correctly in quadrature Fix the bolt to the motor wheel through the coupling rod as before Repeat the process with the wheel on the metal axle It is a good idea to connect up the Mini B and battery to the motor and run it gently to ensure accurate alignment of the wheels and coupling rods, tweaking as necessary The wheels are all designed to be a friction fit and should not need gluing, but if they do use a drop of cyanoacrylate making absolutely certain they are correctly aligned first	Brake Remove the bolt from the middle of the brake mechanism Position the brake on the side of the frame with the hole Fix the brake in place using the 2mm bolt and allen key
Brake Glue the right hand end of the brake mechanism to the frame using polystyrene cement Make sure the bottom of the brake is horizontal then glue the brown brake block to this making sure it is clear of the wheels Note that with the brake block and coupling rod bolts glued it is not possible to remove the brake so double check everything before gluing	On/off switch Remove the nuts and washers from the switch and push it into the switch holder
On/off switch Push the switch through the hole in the barrel from the inside making sure the terminal with the battery wire is not next to the motor hole in the barrel The switch holder is shaped to fit in the barrel as shown Once aligned, tighten up the nut on the switch outside the barrel	Mounting the barrel Paint the yellow motor black where it sticks through the frame so it is not visible when the barrel is on Carefully push the wires through the hole in the barrel followed by the motor
Mounting the Mini B Turn the on/off switch to off - facing away from the motor Plug the power and motor connectors into the Mini B As there is no obvious front or back it's up to you which way you want to go in Forward and Reverse, swapping the motor connectors to the Mini B as you wish If you find later that the barrel end will not easily go all the way in you can bend the motor pins on the Mini B in towards the centre of the barrel to save a couple of mm Slide the Mini B into the left of the barrel with the longer board outside as shown	Mounting the battery Plug the 600mAh 3.7V lipo into the battery connector and slide this into the right side of the barrel
Barrel end without pressure gauge Friction fit the brown seat into the holes, using a needle file to open the holes a little if needed - do not force it - the seat should be fitted this end so it can have a driver figure to add weight Cut a 13mm length of the 1.5mm brass rod and file the ends smooth Slide this into the hole on the top left side of the barrel end - the hole surround is fragile so take care Slide one of the lozenge shaped regulator fittings onto this with the flat side next to the barrel Slide the red regulator handle onto this with the arm facing inwards and flat side towards the barrel All of the fittings on the barrel are push fit, but add glue if necessary This barrel end push fits into the end of the barrel furthest from the motor - it is quite deep so that it stays in position - do NOT glue it as you need to remove it to get to the battery The easiest way to rotate or remove the end is by gently using the seat	Barrel end with pressure gauge Friction fit the brown seat into the holes, using a needle file to open the holes a little if needed - do not force it - the seat is optional this end as the motor weight is this end Cut a 8mm length of the 1.5mm brass rod and file the ends smooth Slide this into the hole on the top center of the barrel end - the hole surround is fragile so take care Slide the filling valve onto this pointing down with the flat side next to the barrel Cut a 12mm length of the 1.5mm brass rod (slightly shorter than the other barrel end) and file the ends smooth Slide this into the hole on the top right side of the barrel end - the hole surround is fragile so take care Slide one of the lozenge shaped regulator fittings onto this with the flat side next to the barrel Slide the red regulator handle onto this with the arm facing inwards and flat side towards the barrel Cut a 12mm length of the 1.5mm brass rod and file the ends smooth Slide this into the botton of the white pressure gauge Slide the other end into the hole on the left side of the barrel end All of the fittings on the barrel are push fit, but add glue if necessary This barrel end push fits into the end of the barrel nearest the motor - glue it if you wish The easiest way to rotate or remove the end is by gently using the seat
Powering up The on/off switch should have been fitted with the terminal connected to the battery away from the motor In this orientation pushing the switch towards the motor turns the power on and away turns it off	Final comments 'Issing Sid is quite a light loco and benefits from having a driver sitting on the seat on the opposite end to the motor using Blu-Tack or similar to spread the weight Connect up some light skips or wagons and control from your smartphone interface The best way to get going slowly is to tap 1st gear then as soon as it starts to move tap slower several times to get to the speed you want Enjoy!

'Issing Sid introduction and instructions