Jung MSZ 130
16mm scale introduction and instructions

3D printed parts

• Black: chassis, chassis weight cover, 4 wheels, 4 brakes, brake lever, clutch, 2 sander handles, exhaust pipe, seat, 2 buffers, 2 window frames
• Red (mainly): 2 buffer beams, 2 frame sides
• Grey (mainly): 2 cab sides, cab roof outer, bonnet front inner, bonnet rear inner, bonnet top, bonnet front, bonnet rear, filler cap, switch holder
• Cream: cab roof inner, throttle
• 4 colour: cab floor with gearbox
• Silver: 32mm wheel gauge, wheel jig

Electrical and other parts

• Loco Remote Maxi
• Combined motor/gearbox
• White power connector and cable for Maxi
• 2 wire (red/brown) motor cable with Dupont connectors
• 6 x AAA battery holder
• On/off toggle switch
• 2.1mm DC power socket
• 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing
• 6 M2 8mm bolts with nuts
• 2 M2 6mm bolts with nuts - fitted to printed switch holder
• 1 axle 42mm long
• O ring (41mm OD, 37mm ID, 2mm)
• 60g tyre weights
• 100mm 1.5mm carbon fibre rod
• 2 brass coupling hooks
• 2 decals
• 2 pieces of window glazing

Suggested tools and glues

• Metal ruler
• Hammer
• Small pozidrive screwdriver
• Side cutters
• Small pliers
• Razor saw
• 1.5mm, 6mm drill bits
• Mini finger drill / pin vice
• 6 mini clamps
• 2 150mm or larger G clamps
• Tweezers
• Cocktail stick
• Blu Tack
• Bench vice (not shown)
• Soldering iron, solder and "helping hands" (not shown) if you do not have the prewired kit
• Revell Contacta Liquid Glue with Professional Needle Applicator - Polystyrene cement (used for Airfix kits)
• UHU Super Glue Ultra Fast Liquid
• Deluxe Materials Glue 'n' Glaze

Wiring and checking the electronics

• Locate the motor, red/brown wires and thinner heat shrink tubing
• Cut the wires to 8cm
• Cut 2 pieces of thinner heat shrink tubing to approx 8mm

• Strip the end of each wire and tin the ends with solder

• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on each wire
• Solder the red wire to the motor tab by the red dot

• Solder the brown wire to the other motor tab

• Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place

• Locate the parts shown in the photo
• Cut the wires on the Maxi power connector to 7cm
• Keep the off-cut of red wire and cut this to 4cm
• Cut the wires on the 6 x AAA battery holder to 10cm
• Cut 3 pieces of thinner heat shrink tubing to approx 8mm
• Cut 2 pieces of thicker heat shrink tubing to approx 8mm

• Strip the end of the 4cm off-cut of red wire
• Solder this to one end switch tab
• Slip a piece of thinner heat shrink tubing over the off-cut of red wire
• Push the heat shrink tubing so it fully covers the soldered tab and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place

• Push the DC power socket through the switch holder
• Secure it with the M2 bolts and nuts
• Remove the nuts and washers from the switch
• Push the switch through the switch holder with the soldered wire at the side as shown
• Secure it with the serrated washer and a nut

• Slip a piece of thicker heat shrink tubing over both the black wires and solder these together to the DC power socket tab nearer to the switch
• Slip a piece of thinner heat shrink tubing over the red battery holder wire and solder this to the middle switch tab
• Slip a piece of thinner heat shrink tubing over the red Maxi power connector wire and solder this to the switch tab nearest to the DC power socket
• Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place

• Slip a piece of thicker heat shrink tubing over the off-cut of red wire
• Solder this to the remaining DC power socket tab
• Push the heat shrink tubing so it fully covers the soldered tab and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place

• The completed wiring should look like this

• Make sure the switch is set to off - the handle should be pushed so that it points inwards towards the DC power socket
• Connect the red and brown wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the top board - the red wire should be on the outer edge
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Maxi - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
• Put 6 AAA NiMH rechargeable or 6 AAA alkaline batteries in the battery holder
• The batteries can be a tight fit in the holder - check they are all pushed right up so that the positive tops touch the metal otherwise you won’t get the voltage out - the negative ends should touch the springs however you move them

• Check everything works by turning the switch on
• The blue LED on the Maxi board should do a brief flash
• Connect your smartphone to the Maxi as described in the Maxi setup guide
• Run the controller from your screen
• When going Forward, the motor shaft should be rotating anti-clockwise when you look at it in the orientation shown in the photo with the red motor wire on the top
• You can change the name on the screen (for example to Jung MSZ 130) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the components
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain

Assembling the loco

• Locate the 4 wheels, motor and axle
• 2 wheels have a D shape hole with a blocked outside - these are for the motor
• 2 wheels have a round hole all the way through - these are for the axle

• Position the wheels with the D shape hole onto the ends of the motor axle so they just grip

• Position the wheels with the round hole onto the ends of the plain axle so they just grip
• Locate the 32mm wheel gauge and round wheel jig

• Put the motor and wheels into a bench vice, making sure they are square
• Slowly close the vice squeezing the wheels onto the motor axle
• Keep closing the vice while holding the gauge between the wheels until it touches the backs - it should be a perfect fit when the wheels are pushed fully on

• Repeat for the wheels on the plain axle closing the vice until it touches both ends of the axle
• There will be approx 2mm play when you insert the gauge - i.e. the wheels will be slightly too far apart

• Place the wheels and axle upright onto the round wheel jig and tap the end of the axle lightly with a hammer

• Turn the axle over and repeat for the other end with the 32mm wheel gauge between the wheels
• Rotate and repeat a couple of times until the gauge just touches the backs with approx 1mm of axle protruding from the wheels either end - it does not matter if the amount protruding is not exactly the same both ends

• Do a final check that the gauge just fits between both pairs of wheels
• The wheel gauge is set for a back to back distance of 28mm for 32mm gauge track - as a bonus if you rotate it by 90 degrees it gives a back to back distance of 40mm for 45mm gauge track

• Locate the chassis, 2 pairs of brakes, strip of tyre weights and weight cover

• Cut the strip in half then fold over each half strip and push them in the hole
• Glue the weight cover over them - note it has a lip to fit over the edges

• Glue the brakes into the holes in the chassis, with the curved parts pointing towards the centre and the brake blocks on the outside
• If necessary you can use a flat blade screwdriver to push them all the way in - make sure they are all square to the chassis

• Locate the front and rear bonnet inners, assembled switch holder and M2 8mm bolts and nuts

• Fit the nuts into the matching holes in the bonnet inners - the easiest way to do this is to screw the bolt in from underneath to pull the nut into the whole, then remove the bolt

• Push the bolts into the holes on the underside of the chassis - put a blob of Blu Tack on the end of the screwdriver to hold the bolt

• Secure the front inner through the 2 holes at the front of the chassis
• Secure the rear inner through the 2 holes at the rear of the chassis
• Tighten up all the bolts and nuts, making sure both inners are accurately aligned with the chassis sides

• Remove the M2 6mm bolts from the bottom of the holder
• Position the holder with the switch and DC socket aligned as shown
• Push the bolts into the middle holes on the underside of the chassis and then screw them into the holder

• Locate the motor with wheels, axle with wheels and O ring

• Feed the motor wires through the hole in the chassis from underneath
• Align the motor with the hole in the chassis - the brown wire MUST be closest to you or the loco will go the wrong way
• Loosely put the O ring over a wheel - it does not matter which side
• Push the motor firmly all the way in until it clicks in place

• Put the O ring over the wheel on the axle
• Push the axle firmly all the way in until it clicks in place
• Make sure the O ring is in the pulley groove of each wheel

• Connect the red and brown wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the top board - the red wire should be on the outer edge
• Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Maxi - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
• Push the Maxi into the slit in the chassis to hold it securely

• Locate the 2 cab sides, bonnet front and bonnet rear

• Apply glue to the bonnet inners on one side - we recommend using the Revell Contacta and not Super Glue to allow time to accurately align the side

• Glue the side to the inners - these should exactly align with the black and cream boundary on the side
• Make sure the side is touching the chassis floor along the whole length
• Use 3 mini clamps to hold the side in place while the glue dries

• Repeat for the other side

• Glue the bonnet front in place touching the front of the inner and against the sides

• Glue the bonnet rear in place touching the back of the inner and against the sides
• Use G clamps while the glue sets making sure all parts are accurately aligned

• Locate the glazing and window frames
• Use Glue 'n' Glaze or model aircraft canopy cement to fix the glazing - other glues may fog the glazing

• Removing the protective plastic on both sides can be tricky
• Use your fingernail, a metal straight edge or the back of a blade held at 45 degrees along the edge of the pane to gently separate the protective plastic from the pane

• Once the protective plastic starts to lift, use a fingernail, cocktail stick and/or tweezers to tease up a corner but DO NOT fully remove it
• Repeat to remove a corner on the other side of the piece - it should look similar to this

• Run a THIN line of Glue 'n' Glaze around the inside of its window frame
• Fully pull off the protective plastic from one side and lay it face down in a frame leaving the protective plastic on the side facing you while you push it in place to avoid fingerprints - it is a tight fit so make sure you push it all the way in
• Repeat for the other window
• Carefully pull the protective plastic corner up on each window to remove it - they should be completely clear
• Leave the glue to dry thoroughly - it turns clear when dry

• Locate the cream cab roof inner, grey cab roof outer, windows and exhaust

• Making sure the holes for the exhaust are aligned, glue the inner roof to the outer roof - we recommend using the Revell Contacta and not Super Glue to allow time to accurately align these

• Before the glue in the previous step sets, glue the window frames in place, pushing them right through the roof sides to help align the parts

• Use 6 mini clamps to hold the parts place while the glue dries

• Check if the exhaust fits in the hole in the roof
• Use a 6mm bit rotated in your fingers, or a small round file to enlarge the hole slightly if necessary

• Insert the exhaust through the hole and glue the flat bottom of it to the inside of the cab, with 4mm of the exhaust protruding outside the roof
• Use a mini clamp to hold the exhaust in place while the glue dries

• Locate the buffer beams, buffers, frame sides and coupling hooks

• Use a pair of pliers to carefully push a coupling hook into the top of a buffer (V side cut out)
• Support the hole underneath and gently rotate the hook back and forth with the pliers to wiggle it in

• Repeat for the other buffer and hook

• Glue the buffers into the holes in the buffer beams aligned as shown - the bottom of the beams have a 45 degree cut
• The easiest way to do this is to just push the buffer in the hole, turn it upside down so the buffer is on a flat surface and then push the back of the buffer beam down

• Glue the front buffer beam in place on the chassis, making sure its sides are flush with the sides of the chassis

• Repeat for the rear buffer beam
• Use G clamps while the glue sets making sure all parts are accurately aligned

• Note the frame sides are mirror images of each other - the steps go under the cab entrance
• Glue a frame side to the side of the chassis and buffer beams

• Repeat for the other side
• Use G clamps at the ends and mini clamps in the middle while the glue sets making sure all parts are accurately aligned

• Locate the cab floor, throttle, brake lever, clutch, 2 sander handles, seat and carbon fibre rod

• The best way to cut the carbon fibre rod for the cleanest ends is with a razor saw, finished off with side cutters

• Hold the rod firmly in a vice and cut off 9mm with a razor saw
• Make the final cut with side cutters (photo in next step)
• Cut off a second 9mm piece

• You should have approximately 80mm of rod left - cut this in half with the razor saw and finish with the side cutters

• You should have 2 pieces of rod 9mm long and 2 pieces 40mm long
• Locate the throttle and clutch

• You must use Super Glue to glue the carbon rod since the Revell Contacta will not stick to it
• Put a drop onto a cocktail stick and use this to put the glue in the holes in the next steps

• Glue the 9mm rod into the top of the throttle
• Glue the other 9mm rod into the hole in the clutch opposite the pedal, allowing 5-6mm protruding

• There are 2 holes in the base of the floor for the 40mm rods, one slanting forwards and one backwards
• If the rods do not easily go into these, open the holes out with a 1.5mm (or 1.6mm) drill bit in a mini finger drill

• Glue the 2 rods in place so that they are level with the bottom of the floor

• Push (do NOT glue) the rod on the clutch pedal into the side of the gear box - this is to allow it to rotate so that a custom driver can rest his right foot on this
• Glue the brake lever into the hole on the right side of the floor slanting forwards with the protruding round top facing outside

• Push the 2 sanding levers through the back of the seat base and glue them in place - note they are handed and the levers should point forwards

• Sanding levers pointing forwards seen from above front

• Glue the seat onto the seat base so that the back is flush with the sides with equal overlap each side

• Glue the throttle to the inside left of the cab positioned as shown

• Glue the filler gap to the top centre of the rear bonnet with the slightly wider serrated part on top

• Slide the floor into the cab from above - do NOT glue it

• Push the roof down onto the cab
• The exhaust is at the front
• Push the cream back behind the seat and the front ahead of the transmission - it will go in when you wiggle it - this is why you do not glue the floor!

• After pushing the cab roof right down to check everything fits, raise it slightly
• Apply a thin line of glue along the inside top of the cab sides - that's all that is needed to secure it and the floor

• Clamp the sides to the roof while the glue dries

• Put 6 AAA NiMH rechargeable or 6 AAA alkaline batteries in the battery holder
• Slot the battery holder into the space in the chassis

• The bonnet top fits loosely in place held by a tab at the front - do NOT glue it as you need to access the switch and batteries!

• Check everything works as before - if for some reason the Jung goes backwards when you select forwards just swap the red and brown wires from the motor on the Maxi pins

• IMPORTANT - only recharge NiMH batteries. Do not try to recharge single use alkaline batteries!
• There is a 2.1mm DC centre positive charge socket connected to the batteries when the switch is pushed towards this for use with a NiMH Smart Charger if you are using rechargeable batteries.
• IMPORTANT - when you charge the batteries it is preferable to remove the battery holder from the body and lay it outside. The batteries can get hot while charging and if left inside could cause the bonnet to warp!
• Alternatively you can remove the batteries from the holder and charge them individually in a NiMH charger

• The Jung MSZ 130 is capable of pulling a moderate load of a rake of wagons
• Power it up and enjoy
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain