Clayton CB1.75FC-7 folding cab battery electric locomotive
7/8ths inch scale introduction and instructions

Parts

Wiring and electronics check

• You will have either a PP3 or red JST battery connector that should match what you ordered
• For PP3 use either a standard 9V alkaline or preferably a 8.4-9V Li-ion like this from Amazon with a built in USB charge socket so you can recharge it without removing it
• PP3 NiMH batteries can be used but are not recommended as they have much smaller capacity and run time
• For red JST use a 3s 11.1V Lipo with a matching connector that will fit in the space in the bonnet - the one in the photo is a 370mAh Turnigy nano-tech
• Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 red wires - when connecting a charger to either the PP3 Li-ion or 11.1V Lipo battery

• Plug one pair of motor wires into the outer 2 Maxi motor connections with the orange wire on the outside
• Plug the other pair of motor wires into the inner 2 Maxi motor connections with the orange wire on the outside
• The 2 yellow wires should be next to each other with the 2 orange wires outside as in the photo
• With the battery not connected, plug the white power plug into the Maxi battery input - it is keyed and must only go the way shown with the red wire on the outside of the board
• Plug the brown, black and white wires of the lights into the pins marked F LED +, R LED - and R LED + on the green board, with nothing connected to the outer most F - pin as in the photo

• Place the motors so the yellow wires of each are on top
• Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 red wires
• Connect the PP3 or Lipo battery - the connector should match what you ordered
• Check everything works by turning the switch on
• The blue LED on the Maxi board and front LED should do a brief flash
• Connect your smartphone to the Maxi as described in the Maxi setup guide
• Run the controller from your screen
• When going Forward, the motor shafts should be rotating anti clockwise as you look from the bottom of the photo up (make sure the yellow wires are on top)- if either/both is rotating clockwise reverse the yellow and orange motor wires
• When going Reverse, the motor shafts should be rotating clockwise as you look from the bottom of the photo up (make sure the yellow wires are on top)
• Touching the Lights button should toggle the front or rear light on and off
• You can change the name on the screen (for example to Clayton) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the components
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the battery does not fully drain

Assembling the loco

• Locate the battery box, 4 vents (8 are provided so you have 4 spare), vent guide and gauge

• Align the guide on one side and hold it in place with Blu Tack or similar
• Put 2 small dots of glue in the holes and fit vents into these - the gap in the vent should be on the inside at the bottom
• Make sure the glue does not spread under the guide and stick this to the box side!
• Leave the glue to dry thoroughly then repeat for the vents on the other side

• Once the vents are firmly stuck on, glue the gauge oriented as shown on the back of the box near the switch hole

• Locate the cab back, cab floor, seat, rear buffer and rear buffer guide

• Push the cab seat firmly into the bar as shown and glue it to the back corner as shown
• You may need to open up the hole on the seat that fits onto the bar slightly if it is too tight

• Glue the cab floor to the cab back
• Use some small pieces of Blu Tack to keep the parts pushed together while they dry
• Make sure you don't stick it to the worktop!

• The front and rear buffers may look similar but they are different - the thinner one is the rear
• Align the rear buffer guide oriented as shown on the cab back and hold it in place with Blu Tack or similar
• Put some glue in middle of the hole and fit rear buffer into this - the printed bolts go at the bottom
• Make sure the glue does not spread under the guide and stick this to the cab back!

• Push the smaller plug from underneath through the hole on the controller top
• Push and glue the controller knob onto this - it should be free to rotate in the hole
• Cut the round head pin to the desired length (around 9mm) and glue this in the small hole in the knob
• Glue the controller top onto the controller box

• The 45mm chassis is on the left and the 32mm on the right
• For the 32mm chassis glue the 2 side skirts to the sides of the chassis aligning with the wheel cut outs
• Glue the front buffer beam to the chassis - the sticking out parts should be on the inside

• Glue the front buffer to the chassis through the hole on the buffer beam - the printed bolts go at the bottom

• Each standard wheel comes in 2 parts - a wheel and a keyed motor mount
• The motor mounts have a keyed hole at one end and are blank at the other
• They are designed to be a very tight fit into the wheels and you may need to rub the blank end edges on some wet and dry paper
• Apply a good amount of glue into the hole in a wheel
• Push the blank end of a motor mount into this
• Push it all the way in making absolutely sure it is square in the hole - putting the mount on a flat surface and tapping the wheel onto it with a hammer with a small protective piece of wood on this may help

• Repeat for the other 3 wheels
• Make sure the motor mounts are square in the holes - an easy way to check is to put the 4 wheels on a flat surface as shown, rotate them and check all the treads are at the same height all the way round
• If the motor mounts are not square or pushed in different amounts then the loco may not run smoothly - take your time over this

• Push the wheels onto the keyed axle shafts of the motor
• The depth of the hole in the mounts should set the gauge automatically

• Push each mount in making absolutely sure it is square - putting a wheel on a flat surface and gently tapping the other end of the axle with a hammer with a small protective piece of wood on this may help
• Alternatively you can carefully squeeze the mounts on using a vice
• Take your time and don't push too far
• For 32mm gauge the inside back to back distance of the wheels should be 28mm and for 45mm gauge it should be 41mm
• Make sure all the wheels are on square

• Position the motor with the longer 10cm wires at the rear with the yellow wire towards the rear
• Position the motor with the shorter 8cm wires at the front with the yellow wire towards the rear

• Push the rear motor all the way up into hole at the rear of the chassis rotating it forwards as you do
• Use a pencil to push the side of the motor against the floor of the chassis - it should click in place past the retaining lugs
• The yellow wire should now be on top

• Repeat for the front motor rotating it backwards as you push it up through the hole
• Use a pencil to push the side of the motor against the sloping shelf of the chassis - it should click in place past the retaining lugs
• The orange wire should now be on top
• If you ever need to remove the front motor use a small screwdriver to gentle lever the end with the wires up so it unclips
• If you ever need to remove the rear motor, remove the front one first and then use a small screwdriver to push it out from the hole underneath it so it unclips

• Glue the battery box support to the chassis
• The front should be a fraction of a mm behind the front of the buffer beam and the hole aligned with the hole in the chassis

• Locate the battery box cover and front and rear lights
• Feed the black plugs one at a time through the hole in the cover

• Align the lights so that the brown wire for the front light is closer to the front
• Glue this assembly into the hole in the cover
• Make sure that the lights are perpendicular to the cover from the front and the side

• Glue the controller box and brake lever in place, oriented as shown

• Feed the motor wires through the hole in the floor of the battery box - do not glue the box in place yet

• Plug the motor and lights cables into the Maxi as described above
• With the battery not connected, plug the white power plug into the Maxi battery input - it is keyed and must only go the way shown with the red wire on the outside of the board

• Fit the on/off switch into the hole with the cut part at the bottom and polyfuse at the top - when the handle is down the power is off
• Glue the L shape switch cover over the switch to keep it secure

• Slot the Maxi into the holder in the battery box
• Make sure the switch is off (down) and connect the battery

• Switch on and check everything works correctly
• If the front and rear lights show the wrong way round just swap the plugs of the brown and white wires on the Maxi
• If one or both motors go in reverse when set to forwards just swap the relevant pair(s) of yellow and orange wires on the Maxi
• Optionally glue the battery box to the support

• Feed the 2 17mm brass rods through the holes in the chassis
• Clip the cab in place on the rods

• Cut the coupling pin to the desired length
• Push the wires in the battery box down and clip the battery box cover in place - do not glue it so you can access the battery

• If you want to apply the decals, please read these instructions from Endon Valley Custom Decals
• Use a sharp knife to cut out each decal - if you cut the top corners off the decal will just fit between the vents
• Although the Endon Valley instructions recommend applying a gloss coat first, I found that the decals will adhere directly to the printed plastic sides of the battery box but should still be covered with a clear spray varnish
• The Clayton is capable of pulling a few lightly loaded wagons
• Driver Robin fits and is available in 7/8ths inch scale from the Clavey Models eBay store
• Power it up and enjoy
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the battery does not fully drain