Clayton 1.75 ton battery electric locomotive
7/8ths inch scale introduction and instructions

Parts

• Black: chassis, 4 wheels, 4 wheel motor mounts, seat cushion, brake lever, controller top with knobs, rear light cover (Tom and Hazel)
• Black/red and colour: 2 buffers
• Colour: Battery box, battery box cover, 2 side skirts, cab, controller box, front light surround, U clip
• Red: wheel inserts for coloured wheels (Wasp - not shown)

• Loco Remote Maxi with 2 motor outputs and lights
• 2 combined motors and gearboxes
• Wired power cable with on/off switch and battery connector
• Rivet coupling pin
• Round head pin
• Wired rear light (Tom and Hazel)
• Wired front light (Tom and Hazel)
• Wired front and rear lights on pole (Wasp - not shown)

Wiring and electronics check

• Plug one pair of motor wires into the outer 2 Maxi motor connections with the orange wire on the outside
• Plug the other pair of motor wires into the inner 2 Maxi motor connections with the orange wire on the outside
• The 2 yellow wires should be next to each other with the 2 orange wires outside as in the photo
• With the battery not connected, plug the white power plug into the Maxi battery input - it is keyed and must only go the way shown with the red wire on the outside of the board
• Plug the black and white wires of the front light (the one with the shorter wires) into the pins marked F LED - and + on the green board, with black connected to the -
• Plug the black and white wires of the rear light (the one with the longer wires) into the pins marked R LED - and + on the green board, with black connected to the -
• The lights wires should go front black, front white, rear black, rear white from the outside of the board as in the photo

• Plug one pair of motor wires into the outer 2 Maxi motor connections with the orange wire on the outside
• Plug the other pair of motor wires into the inner 2 Maxi motor connections with the orange wire on the outside
• The 2 yellow wires should be next to each other with the 2 orange wires outside as in the photo
• With the battery not connected, plug the white power plug into the Maxi battery input - it is keyed and must only go the way shown with the red wire on the outside of the board
• Plug the brown, black and white wires of the lights into the pins marked F LED +, R LED - and R LED + on the green board, with nothing connected to the outer most F - pin as in the photo

• Note the photo shows the lights for Tom and Hazel - Wasp will have a pair of lights mounted together on a pole, but operation is identical
• Place the motors so the yellow wires of each are on top
• Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 red wires
• Connect the PP3 or Lipo battery - the connector should match what you ordered
• Check everything works by turning the switch on
• The blue LED on the Maxi board should do a brief flash
• Connect your smartphone to the Maxi as described in the Maxi setup guide
• Run the controller from your screen
• When going Forward, the motor shafts should be rotating anti clockwise as you look from the bottom of the photo up (make sure the yellow wires are on top)- if either/both is rotating clockwise reverse the yellow and orange motor wires
• Touching the Lights button should toggle the front light on and off

• When going Reverse, the motor shafts should be rotating clockwise as you look from the bottom of the photo up (make sure the yellow wires are on top)
• Touching the Lights button should toggle the rear light on and off
• You can change the name on the screen (for example to Clayton) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the components
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the battery does not fully drain

• You will have either a PP3 or red JST battery connector that should match what you ordered
• For PP3 use either a standard 9V alkaline or preferably a 8.4-9V Li-ion like this from Amazon with a built in USB charge socket so you can recharge it without removing it
• PP3 NiMH batteries can be used but are not recommended as they have much smaller capacity and run time
• For red JST use a 3s 11.1V Lipo with a matching connector that will fit in the space in the bonnet - the one in the photo is a 370mAh Turnigy nano-tech
• Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 red wires - when connecting a charger to either the PP3 Li-ion or 11.1V Lipo battery

Assembling the loco

• The photos show a 45mm gauge loco with wider wheel covers - they are much narrower for 32mm gauge
• Do the next 2 steps together before the glue sets
• Glue one of the side skirts into the holes on the battery box - check the orientation

• Glue the chassis to the battery box and side skirt - check the orientation
• Glue the other side skirt and front buffer in place - check the orientation
• Make sure all the pieces are square and touching each other using rubber bands and/or clamps while the glue sets

• Glue the rear buffer to the back of the cab - on Tom there is only one possible orientation

• Glue the rear buffer to the back of the cab - note the orientation for Hazel and Wasp is as shown with a larger area above the buffer
• The photo shows a 16mm scale Hazel - the 7/8ths inch scale is just bigger

• Locate the parts for the controller box

• Push the smaller plug from underneath through the hole on the controller top
• Push and glue the controller knob onto this - it is a tight fit and you may need to tap it on with a hammer or squeeze the parts carefully in a vice
• It should be free to rotate in the hole

• Cut the round head pin to the desired length and glue this in the small hole in the knob
• Glue the controller top onto the controller box

• Glue the cab to the chassis and battery box using rubber bands while the glue sets

• Feed the connectors through the hole on the floor of the cab with the white wire towards the middle
• You may need to feed one through then the other as it is quite tight

• Keep feeding the wires through and beneath the chassis so the black and white flexible wires go right through the hole

• Make sure the rigid black wires are not crossed and aligned as shown

• Push the light into the hole with the wires pointing to the corner of the light support - it should be a push tight fit to get it all the way in

• Carefully bend and route the rigid black wires down and round the inside of the cab

• Once the wires are correctly positioned in the cab route the other ends up though the motor hole in the chassis
• Bend the rigid wires flat against the cab to secure them in place

• You may have 2 similar black light covers with bars (depending on your front light option) - if you do the thinner one is for the rear and the thicker for the front
• Glue the thinner light cover with bars to the support and light in the orientation you want

• If you have the plain light, push this through the hole at the front of the battery box

• Glue the plain front light surround in place

• If you have the flame proof light, push the wires through the hole in the battery box from the outside
• Glue the light surround to the bonnet over the hole
• Glue the thicker light cover with bars to the surround in the orientation you want

• Feed the wires through the hole in the floor behind the battery box
• Align the light pole so the cut out at the bottom faces to the inside of the loco
• Lay the 3 wires flat with the brown wire (front light) towards the front of the loco
• Glue the pole in place in the cut out at the side - making sure it is pushed right in and the pole is at right angles with each axis
• Once the glue has set, push the wires into the channel and then glue the small rectangular cover in place to hide these

• Each standard wheel comes in 2 parts - a wheel and a keyed motor mount
• Wasps coloured wheels have an additional insert - if you have these glue them into the hole in each wheel now

• The motor mounts have a keyed hole at one end and are blank at the other
• They are designed to be a very tight fit into the wheels and you may need to rub the blank end edges on some wet and dry paper
• Apply a good amount of glue into the hole in a wheel
• Push the blank end of a motor mount into this
• Push it all the way in making absolutely sure it is square in the hole - putting the mount on a flat surface and tapping the wheel onto it with a hammer with a small protective piece of wood on this may help

• Repeat for the other 3 wheels
• Make sure the motor mounts are square in the holes - an easy way to check is to put the 4 wheels on a flat surface as shown, rotate them and check all the treads are at the same height all the way round
• If the motor mounts are not square or pushed in different amounts then the loco may not run smoothly - take your time over this

• Push the wheels onto the keyed axle shafts of the motor
• The depth of the hole in the mounts should set the gauge automatically

• Push each mount in making absolutely sure it is square - putting a wheel on a flat surface and gently tapping the other end of the axle with a hammer with a small protective piece of wood on this may help
• Alternatively you can carefully squeeze the mounts on using a vice
• Take your time and don't push too far
• For 32mm gauge the inside back to back distance of the wheels should be 28mm and for 45mm gauge it should be 41mm
• Make sure all the wheels are on square

• Position the motor with the longer 10cm wires at the front with the yellow wire on top
• Position the motor with the shorter 8cm wires at the rear with the yellow wire on top

• Rotate the front motor so it is vertical and push it all the way up into hole at the front of the chassis

• Use a pencil to push the front on the motor against the floor of the chassis - it should click in place
• The yellow wire should still be on top

• Repeat for the rear motor - you will need to rotate it past the vertical as you push it up through the hole
• The yellow wire should still be on top
• If you ever need to remove the motor use a small screwdriver to gentle lever the end with the wires up so it unclips

• Plug the motor and lights cables into the Maxi as described for your loco version above

• With the battery not connected, plug the white power plug into the Maxi battery input - it is keyed and must only go the way shown with the red wire on the outside of the board

• Slot the Maxi into the holder in the battery box

• Fit the on/off switch into the hole with the cut part at the bottom and polyfuse at the top - when the handle is down the power is off

• Glue the U shape clip over the switch to keep it secure

• Glue the seat cushion onto the seat holder
• Glue the seat holder in place
• Glue the controller box and brake lever in place, oriented as shown

• You should not need the seat cushion, but you can glue it to the seat holder if you want to and your driver has long legs
• Glue the seat holder in place
• Glue the controller box and brake lever in place, oriented as shown

• Glue the seat holder in place - do this first as it is easier to then align the cushion
• Glue the seat cushion onto the seat holder
• Glue the controller box and brake lever in place, oriented as shown

• The battery box cover sits on top - be careful with the Hazel and Wasp to lift it straight off and on as the lifting tags on the top of the box are quite thin

• Cut the coupling pin to the desired length

• Turn the on/off switch to off (down)
• Fit the battery into the battery box
• Connect up the battery

• Check everything works as described in "Maxi setup and operation" above
• The Clayton is capable of pulling a few wagons
• Drivers Ron, Robin and Violet have been specially designed to fit and are available in 7/8ths inch scale from the Clavey Models eBay store
• Power it up and enjoy
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the battery does not fully drain