Loco Remote

Clayton 1.75 ton battery electric locomotive 16mm scale introduction and instructions The Clayton is a small 1.75 ton battery electric locomotive commonly used in mining and tunnelling manufactured by Clayton Equipment Ltd. The models are based on No. 13 Tom and No. 18 Hazel at Steeple Grange Light Railway. The 16mm scale models have a 4 wheel drive motor/gearbox completely hidden in the chassis controlled by a Loco Remote Maxi. They are powered by a PP3 battery. You can use a standard 9V alkaline battery, or search Amazon for "PP3 li ion rechargeable battery" and select one with a built in USB charge socket like this to save removing it from the loco. The kit contains everything you need including a Loco Remote Maxi to build a fully remote controlled loco. Just add a battery and a custom driver from the Clavey Models eBay store to get up and running with your smartphone. Parts are 3D printed in PLA ST (super tough) and PLA +. This means that while it is fine to run it anywhere, do not leave it standing outside in hot sun for any length of time, especially if it is unpainted. Above around 50 degrees C (120 degrees F) PLA can start to soften and so it may deform. Remember this is the temperature of the PLA which may be higher than the air temperature in the sun. PLA ST is more resilient than standard PLA. The kit has been designed to have some of the parts friction fit together without the need for glue. Polystyrene cement (used for Airfix kits) works well on this PLA. We suggest Revell Contacta Liquid Glue with Professional Needle Applicator. Apply a fine line using the needle applicator and then hold the pieces together until set in a few minutes. Other glues including epoxy can be used but note that cyanoacrylate (super glue) may well leave a white bloom on the surface of the PLA that is hard to remove. This may be okay if you are painting it afterwards but otherwise best avoid it. For the friction fit parts, a very gentle rub with wet and dry paper may be needed on some edges if they are too tight. Similarly some of the holes may need slight opening with a needle file or finger drill. Please do this slowly and gently. If there are any fine strings left over from printing, gently remove these with your fingers, a sharp knife and wet and dry paper. www.locoremote.co.uk
Parts 3D printed parts Black: chassis, 4 wheels, seat cushion, brake lever, controller top with knobs, rear light with back, front light Black and colour: 2 buffers Colour: Battery box, battery box cover, 2 side skirts, cab, controller box, 2 front light surrounds Electrical and other parts Loco Remote Maxi Combined motor and gearbox White power connector and wires for Maxi PP3 battery connector and wires 2 wire (yellow/orange) motor cable with Dupont connectors O ring Heat shrink tubing On/off slide switch Rivet coupling pin Axle 42mm long Round head pin
Wiring and electronics check
On/off switch - 1 Locate the on/off switch, power cables and thicker heat shrink tubing Cut the red and black wires attached to the white Maxi power connector to 4cm and strip the end Cut the red and black wires attached to the PP3 connector to 4cm and strip the ends Cut 3 pieces of thicker heat shrink tubing to approx 12mm Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire attached to the white Maxi power connector Solder this red wire onto the middle switch tab Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on the red wire only attached to the PP3 connector Solder this red wire onto one outer switch tab Push each heat shrink tubing on both the red wires so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place Slip another piece of heat shrink tubing on the black wire only attached to the PP3 connector Solder the two black wires together Push the heat shrink tubing on the black wire so it fully covers the soldered join and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place IMPORTANT - make absolutely sure the soldered tabs and black wire join are fully covered by the tubing and there is no possibility of any tabs or exposed wires touching and causing a short Make sure the completed switch wiring is the same as the photo	On/off switch - 2 Use a sharp knife to cut the black switch handle to 4mm Cut off the unused switch tab Cut the metal switch surround on the same side as the removed tab at the end of the screw hole as shown
Motor Locate the motor, yellow and orange wires and thinner heat shrink tubing Cut the yellow and orange wires to 8cm and strip the ends a SMALL AMOUNT Cut 2 pieces of thinner heat shrink tubing to approx 8mm Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on both wires Orient the motor as shown - locate the top with the gears closer to the edge Solder the yellow wire to the tab on the same side (top in the photo) - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor Solder the orange wire to the other tab - the tab is very small so do this carefully and make sure the solder or wire do not touch the metal case of the motor Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place These connections can be fragile so don't bend them until you are ready to put the motor in the chassis later If you accidentally attach the yellow and orange wires the wrong way round don't worry - it just means you will need to connect them to the motor output pins of the Maxi the other way round so that the loco runs forwards correctly IMPORTANT - make absolutely sure the soldered tabs are fully covered by the tubing and there is no possibility of any tabs or exposed wires touching and causing a short Make sure the completed motor wiring is the same as the photo	Connecting the Maxi and battery Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 red wires Connect the 2 yellow and orange wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the edge of the board with the orange wire plugged onto the outer pin further from the white socket so that loco goes in the correct direction - if you get this wrong you can always swap the wires round later Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Maxi - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side Connect the PP3 battery Check everything works by turning the switch on The blue LED on the Maxi board should do a brief flash Connect your smartphone to the Maxi as described in the Maxi setup guide Run the controller from your screen When going Forward, the motor shaft should be rotating anti clockwise as you look from the bottom of the photo up - if it is rotating clockwise reverse the yellow and orange motor wires You can change the name on the screen (for example to Clayton) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the components Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the battery does not fully drain IMPORTANT! Only use the recommended PP3 battery. Please download and read the setup guides from the links below before proceeding further, especially if you have not used a Loco Remote before. Maxi setup guide Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
Assembling the loco
Battery box and chassis - 1 Do the next 3 steps together before the glue sets Glue one of the side skirts into the holes on the battery box - check the orientation	Battery box and chassis - 2 Glue the chassis to the battery box and side skirt - check the orientation
Battery box and chassis - 3 Glue the other side skirt and front buffer in place - check the orientation Make sure all the pieces are square and touching each other	Rear buffer Glue the rear buffer to the back of the cab - note the orientation for Hazel is as shown with a larger area above the buffer - on Tom there is only one possible orientation
Seat Glue the seat into the support hole on the cab side The cushion is not needed on Hazel, but is needed on Tom to get the correct driver height, but do check this with your chosen driver figure	Rear light - 1 There are 2 similar black light pieces with bars - the thinner one is for the rear and the thicker optionally for the front The other piece shown is the light back
Rear light -2 Push the light back through the hole Use a paper hole punch on some kitchen foil to make a circular light Glue the foil circle onto the light back Glue the thinner light piece with bars to the support and light back in the orientation you want	Controller box Push the smaller plug from underneath through the hole on the controller top Push and glue the controller knob onto this - it should be free to rotate in the hole Cut the round head pin to the desired length and glue this in the small hole in the knob Glue the controller top onto the controller box
Cab - Hazel Glue the cab to the chassis and battery box Glue the control box and brake lever in the positions and orientations shown Note the seat cushion is not recommended	Cab - Tom Glue the cab to the chassis and battery box Glue the control box and brake lever in the positions and orientations shown Note the seat cushion is recommended
Front light - 1 2 different types of light are provided	Front light - 2 Type 1 (on Hazel) - cut and stick a foil circle into the concave centre Type 2 (on (Tom) - cut and stick a foil circle in the middle of the flat round piece, then glue the thicker light piece with bars to this in the orientation you want Glue the light in place on the front of the battery box
Wheels and motor - 1 The supplied 42mm long axle is for 32mm gauge For 24mm gauge either cut the axle to 34mm or cut a piece of 3mm brass rod to that length Use a small hammer to tap the axle into one of the wheels with a hole all the way through it	Wheels and motor - 2 Put the O ring over the wheel Push the axle through the front chassis hole Push the other wheel onto the axle, tapping it with a small hammer Back to back wheel spacing should be 28mm for 32mm gauge or 20mm for 24mm gauge
Wheels and motor - 3 Push the 2 keyed wheels onto the motor shafts - if necessary tap them fully on with a small hammer The gauge should be set automatically for 32mm (or 24mm) gauge when they fully pushed in Back to back wheel spacing should be 28mm for 32mm gauge or 20mm for 24mm gauge	Wheels and motor - 4 Push the motor wires into the hole in the chassis with the orange towards the front / ground
Wheels and motor - 5 Slip the O ring over the motor wheel	Wheels and motor - 6 Fit the O ring round both pulleys - it does not matter which side it is on
Wheels and motor - 7 Push the motor flat against the floor of the chassis - it should click into place If you ever need to remove the motor use a small screwdriver to gentle lever the back up so it unclips	Fitting the Maxi controller - 1 Make sure the switch is set to off - the black handle should be pushed so that it does not go over the 2 red wires Connect the 2 yellow and orange wires from the motor to the 2 pins on the edge of the board with the orange wire plugged onto the outer pin further from the white socket so that loco goes in the correct direction - if you get this wrong you can always swap the wires round later Connect the white power plug into the white socket on the Maxi - it is keyed and should only go one way with the red wire on the outer side
Fitting the Maxi controller - 2 Fit the on/off switch into the hole with the cut part at the bottom - when the handle is down the power is off Fit the Maxi into the retaining tabs Tidy the wires Connect the PP3 battery and slot it in place If you have chosen a PP3 Li-ion battery suggested above then you can just lift it up a little to recharge it with a USB cable	Battery box cover The battery box cover sits on top - be careful with the Hazel version to lift it straight off and on as the lifting tags on the top of the box are quite thin
Coupling pin Cut the coupling pin to the desired length	Final comments Check everything works as described in "Connecting the Maxi and battery" above The Clayton is capable of pulling a few lightly loaded wagons Drivers Ron, Robin and Violet have been specially designed to fit and are available in 16mm scale from the Clavey Models eBay store Power it up and enjoy Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the battery does not fully drain