Hibberd Planet Ashover
7/8ths inch scale introduction and instructions

3D printed black parts

• Chassis, 2 side frames, air cylinder half, 2 bonnet supports, radiator surround and grill, roof, 2 buffer bases, 2 window frames, forward/reverse lever, 2 brake/gear change handles, 4 brakes, exhaust pipe, seat, seat support, engine starter, 2 buffer insides, 2 buffer ends

3D printed coloured parts

• Red: 2 buffer beams
• Green/white/grey: bonnet, bonnet top, cab front, cab back, cylinder, cab floor
• Red/green: 32/45mm back to back wheel gauge

Wheels and other parts

• 4 33.6mm steel disc wheels
• 2 4mm axles 88mm long
• 4 0.5M20T 4mm bore brass bevel gears - Spares available from AliExpress - select 4mm bore
• 8 M3 3mm grub screws (in bevel gears and wheels) - Spares available from Amazon
• M1.5 hex head key
• 4 4mm x 9mm x 4mm double shielded bearings - Spares available from Amazon
• Round head pin
• 420g (7 60g strips) tyre/tire weights
• 140mm of 1.5mm brass rod
• 2 windows
• Planet plates (optional)

Electrical parts

• Loco Remote Maxi with 2 motor (and optional sound) outputs in tray with M2 screw
• On/off toggle switch and 2.1mm DC power socket with 2 M2 bolts with nuts and 2 self tapping screws in mount for top of tray
• Mtroniks digiSOUND5m SDT sound card (optional)
• 50mm 8 ohm speaker (optional)
• 2 JGA20-180 12V 480RPM combined motor/gearboxes with M2.5 screws - Spares available from AliExpress - select 12V 480RPM
• White power connector and cable for Maxi
• PP3 battery connector
• 6 x AA battery holder
• 2 wire (brown/red) motor cable with Dupont connectors both ends
• 2 wire (brown/red) half length motor cable with joined Dupont connectors one end
• 2 wire (black/red) short length sound card power cable with Dupont connectors one end
• 4 wire (orange/yellow/green/blue) sound card control cable with Dupont connectors both ends (optional)
• 2 wire (purple/white) half length speaker cable with Dupont connectors one end (optional)
• Short piece of red wire (not shown)
• 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing (not shown)

Suggested tools and glues

• Ruler
• Needle file
• Pozidrive screwdriver
• Sharp knife
• Tweezers
• Side cutters
• Small pliers
• M1.5 hex head key (included with kit)
• Clamps
• Polystyrene cement (used for Airfix kits)
• Glue 'n' Glaze for fixing windows
• Black sharpie
• Blu Tack (not shown)
• Soldering iron, solder and "helping hands" (not shown) if you do not have the prewired kit

Wiring and checking the electronics

• Locate the motors, red and brown wires and black clear heat shrink tubing
• Cut the black connectors off one end of the long wires, maximising the wire length
• Strip around 5mm off the end of each wire
• Cut 4 pieces of black heat shrink tubing to approx 8mm
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on each wire

• For each motor, solder a red wire to the motor tab with a red dot
• Solder the brown wire to the other tab
• Push each heat shrink tubing so they fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place
• These connections can be fragile so don't bend them until you are ready to put the motor in the chassis later
• Repeat for the other motor

• Remove the self tapping screws to free the mount with the switch and DC power socket from the top of the tray
• Locate the PP3 connector, Maxi power connector, short piece of red wire, optional sound card power cable and the heat shrink tubing
• Cut 4 pieces of clear heat shrink tubing to approx 5mm and slip 2 over the PP3 connector cable and 2 over the Maxi power connector cable
• Cut 4 pieces of black heat shrink tubing (red shown in photo) and 1 piece of clear heat shrink tubing to approx 10mm

1. Slip the clear heat shrink tubing over all 3 black wires (2 if no sound card), solder these together to the left DC power socket tab (nearest the switch), then slip the heat shrink tubing to fully cover the soldered tab and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place
2. Slip a piece of the black heat shrink tubing over the red Maxi power connector wire and red sound card power wire, solder these together to the right switch tab (nearest the DC power socket), then slip the heat shrink tubing to fully cover the soldered tab and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place
3. Slip a piece of the black heat shrink tubing over the red PP3 wire, solder this to the middle switch tab, then slip the heat shrink tubing to fully cover the soldered tab and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place
4. Solder one end of the short red wire to the left switch tab, slip a piece of black heat shrink tubing to fully cover the soldered tab and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place
5. Slip a piece of black heat shrink tubing over the short red wire, solder this the right DC power socket tab, then slip the heat shrink tubing to fully cover the soldered tab and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink this in place - note the other DC power socket tab is not used

• The wiring should look like this
• Move the pieces of clear heat shrink tubing along the PP3 connector and Maxi power cables and shrink then in place to keep the red and black wires together
• Put the mount with the switch and DC power socket back on the top of the tray in the same orientation as it came and secure with the self tapping screws

• Separate the purple and white wires
• Strip the ends
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over each wire
• Solder the wires to the speaker tabs as shown
• Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing to fully cover the soldered tabs and gently apply a soldering iron to shrink these in place

• Remove the rubber band used to keep the sound card in place for shipping
• The orange, yellow, green and blue wires will already be connected to the card as shown
• The red and black power wires from the switch mount are also connected on the prewired version - connect them between the yellow and green wires if you do not have this version - make absolutely sure the red and black wires are not reversed - then check again!
• Connect the purple and white wires from the speaker to the final 2 pins

• This is a custom Maxi with 2 motor outputs and optional sound card outputs held in place in the tray by a M2 screw
• When plugging and unplugging connectors to the Maxi pins make sure you hold it firmly between finger and thumb - you may need to gently wiggle the connectors on the pins to fit
• If not already fitted, plug the white power connector into the socket - the red wire should be on the outside nearest to the battery holder
• Plug the orange wire connector into the Sound 1 pin and the yellow into the sound L pin - the other 2 sound pins are not used
• Plug the green and blue wire connectors into the lower 2 pins on the second board
• Plug the red and brown wire connectors from one motor to the 2 outer pins on the second board with brown on the outside
• Plug the red and brown wire connectors from the second motor to the other pins on the second board with brown on the outside - the red wires from the motors should be next to each other as shown so the direction of movement is correct
• The LED light pins are not used, but are operational if you wish to fit your own LED lights

• Make sure the switch is set to off before trying to connect the batteries - the handle should be pushed so that it points inwards towards the DC power socket
• Put 6 AA NiMH rechargeable batteries in the battery holder - the holder holds the batteries firmly so make sure that all are touching the metal contacts - use a multimeter to check the voltage is there at the PP3 connectors
• You can also use standard AA Alkaline batteries if you wish
• Connect the PP3 clip to the battery holder and put the holder in the tray

• Check everything works by turning the switch on
• The blue LED on the top Maxi board adjacent to the tray support should do a brief flash
• Connect your smartphone to the Maxi as described in the Maxi setup guide
• To start the engine sound tap Sound L - the button background changes to light grey and a red LED turns on by the Sound L pin on the Maxi
• Adjust the white pot on the Mtroniks card with a small screwdriver to adjust the volume - it has been preset at around 75% volume and it is not advisable to go much higher as this may cause sound distortion as well as draining the batteries more quickly
• Run the controller from your screen
• When going Forward, the motor shafts should be rotating in the same direction
• To sound the horn tap Sound 1 - a red LED will flash for 500ms by the Sound 1 pin on the Maxi
• To stop the engine sound set the speed to 0% (i.e. Stop) and tap Sound L - it will gradually turn off the sound
• You can change the name on the screen (for example to Ashover) and password if you wish as described in the Wi-Fi connection and controller operation guide
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the motors, speaker and battery holder
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain

Assembling the loco

• Locate the 2 side frames and 4 bearings

• Position a bearing onto the axle-box hole

• Push the frame down onto the bearing on a flat surface with your thumb so that it fits absolutely flush in the hole
• Repeat for the other bearings
• Do not glue the bearings or adjust the holes as they are a friction fit

• Make sure the bearings are all flush in their holes

• Locate the air cylinder half

• Glue the air cylinder half to the matching part on the left frame

• Locate the 4 wheels, 2 axles and 2 bevel gears
• The wheels may have a thin film of oil on them left over from their manufacture to protect them from rusting - if you are planning to paint them then remove this with a suitable degreaser

• Loosen the grub screws with the supplied hex head keys as necessary and push the wheels and bevel gears onto the axles as shown - they may be a little tight but will go on

• Put the remaining 2 bevel gears onto the motor shafts
• Tighten the grub screws with the hex head key
• Gently rotate the gear shafts so that the grub screw and hence the flat part of the shaft is on the same side as the flat case of the motor as per the top motor in the photo
• Undo the grub screws and remove the bevel gears

• Remove the 4 M2.5 screws from the motor gearbox ends
• Align the motors so that the one with the shorter wires will go in the middle of the chassis, and the one with the longer wires at one end

• Push the motor with the longer wires into the space at the end of the chassis so that it's shaft goes through the hole underneath
• Align it so the flat part of the shaft is facing directly down
• Secure the motor in place with the M2.5 screws as shown
• Once the motor is in, you should never remove it as this can weaken the soldered joints

• Turn the chassis over
• Gently thread the wires from the motor through the holes under the chassis floor so they appear above the other motor's space

• Push the motor with the shorter wires into the space in the middle of the chassis so that it's shaft goes through the hole underneath
• The wires from the other motor should pass between its wires as shown
• Align it so the flat part of the shaft is facing directly down
• Secure the motor in place with the M2.5 screws
• Once the motor is in, you should never remove it as this can weaken the soldered joints

• Put the 2 bevel gears onto the motor shafts
• Tighten the grub screws with the hex head key

• Use a sharp knife to cut 12 pieces of tyre weights each with a 5g and 10g piece
• Note the orientation of the side frames - the left one with the air cylinder towards the front of the chassis (i.e. the opposite end to the motor and bottom in photo)

• Take 6 of the 15g weight strips and push them into the hole on the left of the chassis - the blue strip covering the self adhesive backing should not be removed as this would make it almost impossible to fit them accurately!

• Push the left frame onto the tabs on the chassis working from one end to the other a little at a time then back again
• The tabs should go all the way in and be a tight fit - they do not need to be glued

• Turn the chassis over and note that the motors and gears are not central but slightly closer to the right side
• Keeping the wheels and bevel gears loose, fit the axles into the bearings - the gears should be on the side of the already fitted left frame as shown

• Take 6 of the 15g weight strips and push them into the hole on the right of the chassis - the blue strip covering the self adhesive backing should not be removed as this would make it almost impossible to fit them accurately!

• Position the right frame so that the axles go into the bearings and push this onto the tabs as before
• Check the axles rotate freely in the bearings - there should be a very tiny amount (well under 1mm) of side to side play

• Loosen the bevel gear grub screws on a motor shaft and axle
• Push the bevel gears together so they mesh evenly with a tiny bit of play
• Tighten up the grub screws
• Repeat for the other motor shaft and axle

• Locate the 4 brakes noting that there are 2 matching pairs, and the back to back wheel gauge
• Loosen the grub screws on the wheels and push the wheels right in to the middle
• There are 2 holes in the chassis near each wheel - the inner ones are for the brakes for 32mm gauge and the outer for 45mm gauge
• Glue the brakes in place for the appropriate gauge making sure the wheels are inside the brakes!
• The curved blocks should face the wheels and the flat sides are on the inside of the chassis
• They are a tight fit but should wiggle into the holes - tip use the end of a screwdriver against the flat base to help push them all the way into the holes
• If you want to be able to switch between 32mm and 45mm gauge then either glue the brakes into the outer holes, or just push fit them in place without glue

• Place the back to back gauge between the wheels - this way for 32mm gauge
• Adjust the wheels so they are touching the gauge and just inside the brakes
• Tighten the grub screws

• Place the back to back gauge between the wheels - this way for 45mm gauge
• Adjust the wheels so they are touching the gauge and just inside the brakes
• Tighten the grub screws

• Locate the 2 bonnet supports - the right one has a small part sticking out at the front for the engine starter

• Glue the tabs into the holes on the top of the chassis - the taller sides are at the front to support the bonnet with the side tabs pointing out

• Locate the 2 buffer beams and tyre weights
• Use a sharp knife to cut 4 pieces of tyre weights each with a 5g and 10g piece and 4 pieces with just a 10g piece
• Remove the blue backing strips
• Push a single 10g weight into either side of each buffer beam
• Push 2 15g weights on top of each other in the centre of each buffer beam

• Glue the buffer beams to the chassis ends with the cut out curved parts facing up
• Do not glue them to the side frames as these should be removable - note where the glue is smeared in the photo

• Locate the 2 buffer bases

• Glue a buffer base over the chassis end and against the buffer beam - note that one thin edge is slightly curved and should be facing into the chassis with the flat edge against the buffer beam
• Do not glue it to the side frames as these should be removable
• Repeat for the other buffer base

• Locate the buffer insides and buffer ends
• Cut 2 pieces of brass rod 20mm long and bend the ends at a right angle to make coupling pins
• File the ends of the rod lengths to make them smooth

• Support the buffer ends with the notches up
• Push the pins carefully into the holes in the buffer ends using pliers

• Glue the buffer ends into the buffer insides making sure the backs are aligned and flat

• Glue the buffer insides into the holes on the buffer beams with the right angled rod on top making sure they are pushed all the way in

• Locate the radiator surround and grill

• Glue the grill into the surround - it is a tight fit

• Locate the 2 window frames and perspex windows
• Use Glue 'n' Glaze or similar to fix the perspex - do not use super glue or polystyrene cement as they will permanently fog the perspex

• Use a fingernail to gently pull 2 corners of the protective film a little away as shown

• Run a very thin line of Glue 'n' Glaze around the inside of a window frame
• Peel the protective film off one side only and push this into the frame as shown
• Repeat for the other window frame and perspex window
• Leave these aside for the Glue 'n' Glaze to fully set - it goes clear

• Once the glue has set, peel the protective film from the back of the perspex windows

• Use a thin line of polystyrene cement to glue the window frames into the cabs from the outside - do not use super glue as this may fog the perspex even though it is not touching it

• Glue the cylinder to the cab back, using the circle on the inside left side as a guide

• Glue the engine started into the hole at the front of the right bonnet support and onto the chassis

• Push the exhaust pipe up through the hole in the bonnet and glue it in place pointing outwards - the base is shaped to match the under side of the bonnet

• Push (do not glue) the cab front onto the chassis using the bonnet supports as a guide - you will need to wiggle it in place as it is a deliberately tight fit

• Push the bonnet tabs into the cab front - they should be a loose but firm fit and you may need to wiggle it to fit

• Push the radiator tabs into the holes in the chassis and check it is flat on the bonnet
• Remove the radiator and smear glue on the back, then push it back in place against the bonnet being careful to avoid getting any glue in contact with the chassis - it needs to be removable
• Use clamps to hold it in place while the glue sets - make sure everything is square
• Once the glue has set remove the bonnet by lifting the radiator/bonnet up and pulling it towards the front - it may need a wiggle as it is designed to be a snug fit

• Remove the cab front for easier access
• Slide the tray between the bonnet supports - do not glue it in place
• As described above, this is a custom Maxi with 2 motor outputs and optional sound card outputs held in place in the tray by a M2 screw
• When plugging and unplugging connectors to the Maxi pins make sure you hold it firmly between finger and thumb - you may need to gently wiggle the connectors on the pins to fit
• If not already fitted, plug the white power connector into the socket - the red wire should be on the outside nearest to the battery holder
• Plug the orange wire connector into the Sound 1 pin and the yellow into the sound L pin - the other 2 sound pins are not used
• Plug the green and blue wire connectors into the lower 2 pins on the second board
• Plug the red and brown wire connectors from one motor to the 2 outer pins on the second board with brown on the outside
• Plug the red and brown wire connectors from the second motor to the other pins on the second board with brown on the outside - the red wires from the motors should be next to each other as shown so the direction of movement is correct
• Do not connect the speaker to the sound card for this test
• Make sure the switch is set to off before trying to connect the batteries - the handle should be pushed so that it points inwards towards the DC power socket
• Connect the PP3 clip to the battery holder and put the holder in the tray

• Check everything works by turning the switch on
• The blue LED on the top Maxi board adjacent to the tray support should do a brief flash
• Connect your smartphone to the Maxi as described in the Maxi setup guide
• Run the controller from your screen
• When going Forward, check both axles turn together in the same direction - if one goes the "wrong" way, swap the red and brown wires for that motor connected to the Maxi
• Check the bevel gears between motors and axles are meshing smoothly and adjust if necessary
• Add a drop of thin sewing machine oil to the bevel gears
• Once you are happy everything is working correctly, turn the switch off and disconnect the motors, speaker and battery holder
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain

• Push the cab front onto the chassis using the bonnet supports as a guide - you will need to wiggle it in place as it is a deliberately tight fit
• You can glue it in place, but if you do this will make it hard to change the front motor if that ever becomes necessary

• Push the speaker into the opening at the front of the bonnet with the wires at the bottom
• Secure it in place with a couple of pieces of Blu Tack so it can be removed if necessary

• Plug the purple and white speaker wires into the sound card as shown

• Slide the bonnet into position
• The wires connecting the Maxi to the sound card and power switch should fit as shown
• Clip the bonnet in place by pushing the tabs into the cab front and into the chassis under the radiator

• Make sure the switch is set to off before trying to connect the batteries - the handle should be pushed so that it points inwards towards the DC power socket
• Connect the PP3 clip to the battery holder and put the holder in the tray if it is not already in place

• Use a sharp knife to cut 8 pieces of tyre weights each with a 5g and 10g piece

• Remove the blue backing strips
• Push 2 15g weights on top of each other in each hole on the underside of the cab floor

• Locate the seat, seat support, forward/reverse lever, 2 brake/gear change handles, 1.5mm brass rod and round head pin
• Cut the rod into the following lengths - 1 x 42mm, 1 x 14mm, 2 x 10mm

• Push the 10mm lengths of rod into the edges of the 2 handles
• Push the 14mm and 42mm lengths of rod into the bottom of the handles
• Glue the seat support to the bottom of the seat as shown and then push it into the cab floor
• Push the brake handle with 14m rod into the brake support hole at the back of the cab floor
• Glue the round head pin (sanding lever) into the small hole on the side of the cab floor
• Push the gear handle with 42mm rod into the hole in front of the seat - it's height should be similar to the brake handle - do not glue it so that you can remove it to fit a driver
• Glue the forward/reverse leaver into the slot at the front of the cab floor angles as shown

• Push the cab floor onto the chassis with the weights underneath and the driver's seat towards the front
• You can glue it in place, but if you do this will make it hard to change the back motor if that ever becomes necessary

• Push the cab back onto the chassis using the bonnet supports and cab floor as a guide
• You can glue it in place, but if you do this will make it hard to change the back motor if that ever becomes necessary

• Fit the roof in place - you may want to leave it removable to access the cab and driver
• Clip the bonnet top in place - do not glue it as you need access to the interior

• There is a 2.1mm DC centre positive charge socket under the floor connected to the batteries when the switch is pushed towards this
• IMPORTANT! Make sure the batteries are removed from the bonnet for charging as shown. The batteries can get very hot when charging and this might warp the plastic bonnet if they are not removed.

• Glue the red Planet maker's plates to both sides of the cab front
• Glue the black Planet name plate to the top of the radiator - use a sharpie or black paint on the silver edges if necessary

• Ashover is capable of pulling a moderate load of 3-4 wooden coaches or a rake of wagons - do not overload it to avoid damaging the motors or controller
• Drivers Bert and Violet have been specially designed to fit and are available in 7/8ths inch scale from the Clavey Models eBay store
• Power it up and enjoy
• Always remember to switch the power off when you have finished running so the batteries do not fully drain